LSmonster

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, guys. But I'm a newbie to the cage building stuff. I'm just a engine builder looking to diversify.

And the engine that is going in this project is a carry over for another project I have in the works. It's a 416" LS nitrous engine that should fly in this light weight car. Here's a pic, but I won't be using the distributor set-up on this car... It will be a tradition COP set-up. And the T/B Elbow is out too. I'll be eliminating that, and will be mounting the T/B, vertically on top of the nitrous plate. I'll post a pic after I get it set-up and in the car. <(More parts to make, first) :-/

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

Sweet motor.

Turbomike88

iTrader: (1)

Very nice keep the pix commin

Mike

LSmonster

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, guys... It's been a lot of fun building this thing.

A little up-date on this project. It passed certification for 25.2 & 25.3 specs, so I'm happy about that. Now I've started working on the motor plates. Here is a rough draft of what I've got so far. The motor plate attaches to all of the timing cover/Jesel cover bolts and the water pump bolts... It should be super secure/strong. And that's a factory LS F-body alternator too and it's fully adjustable for belt tension. The pulley on the opposite side is for the dry-sump pump.

LSmonster

iTrader: (2)

Got a little more work done. Got the motor and mid plate finished with a mock up block and got the fuel cell fitted. I have a little more tin work to do back there but it's gettin' close. (Just doing fit checks, not installing yet)

The engine should be ready by next week (I changed some things again) but I'm hopin' it will be ready to drop in soon.

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

I wish I had put my motor on a plate. I may some day.

It looks really good. Keep up the good work!

LSmonster

iTrader: (2)

I went with motor plates mainly because of all the crap I got going on beside and below the engine and I needed to for future ventures. Here are some engine mock up pics and I ended going with a carb too. Never used a carb on a LS motor so I thought it was as good a time as any to try one. Right now I'm making radiator mounts and hoses...

DCx

iTrader: (12)

who made that distributor drive set up?

LSmonster

iTrader: (2)

Jesel.

MARO-KEEN

iTrader: (10)

killer build!

LSmonster

iTrader: (2)

^^^^Thanks!^^^^

Got some tin work done. Everything is mocked up where the floor ties into the back half of the car and the driver side seat is located and well as the seat belt tabs. The passenger seat will go in the same way.

LSmonster

iTrader: (2)

Here are some pics of the "oil containment device" ... What a pain in the *** to deal with. :-/ Anyway, here is the universial fit RCI blanket and it works pretty good. I do have to tweek it a bit but I think I can make it work. <(But I'll never run the thing on the street)... Talk about a block heater! Yikes!

But one problem I did run into is the Dyna Tech Fox body headers with the blanket... Not gonna work. The tubs are too close to the blanket and it will burn/melt it. Soooooo... I have to make my own headers if I plan on going with this set-up. $#@%^&!!!!!

I also got my smoke out boots done. <(smoke out of the passenger compartment) The boots ride on the anti-sway bar down tubes so no smoke inside the car after a burn out.

LSmonster

iTrader: (2)

Here are a few more progress pics. Floor is tacked in and the driveshaft hoop is done.

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

wow.

very beautiful sheetmetal and tube work.

95PGTTech

iTrader: (1)

The floor sheet metal - can you go into more details about it...materials, thickness, how/why/where you creased it? Thanks.

LSmonster

iTrader: (2)

I do not have the tools to bend up the tunnel like that so I ordered the floor and tunnel pieces from J&W. It was a "universal kit" so expect a LOT of trimming to get it to fit. There was enough tin in that kit to floor a Suburban!

9sec93

iTrader: (67)

what backspacing wheel did you end up with?
also how far are the lower control arm brackets moved in on the housing?
it looks like they are moved in quite a bit. no worries about affecting the triangulation of the factory 4-link?
very nice project!

LSmonster

iTrader: (2)

3.5" off each side with 5" backspacing on the rims. Housing LCA brackets re-located to line the LCA's to the original frame mounting points. The LCA's are moved inboard with RaceCraft offset spacers for tire clearance.

9sec93

iTrader: (67)

looks good. i am doing my mustang now as well. i am still using an 8.8 but i have the racecraft lower control arm mounts for the housings and moved them in 2" each side. i just didnt know how much you can move them in without messing up the triangulation and having to run a wishbone set-up. my rear is narrowed 3" each side and i am running a 15x12 with 6" backspace. it tucks a 325/50 real nice.
keep the pics coming!!!

LSmonster

iTrader: (2)

Do you have any pics of your car with the 12" rims? I'm running 10's now, but I want to go to a 11" or 12" to pull the tire out a little more.

Here's mine with a 325 on a 10" rim.