g body headers
05-02-2010, 06:59 AM
#21
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I would never buy anything again from BRP. I paid over $700 for my BRP 1 7/8 long tubes last year. A friend of mine just recently paid $589 for the same headers. I still haven't installed them so I couldn't really tell how they fit. You do need to weld the oxygen sensor bungs on them and I really am not too kean on the slip fit collectors. Oh, supposedly Phil gave me jobber price on them???? Phil if you are reading this please include a jar of vaseline with your orders. Since I still don't have them installed yet I wish I would have waited for Shawn @ RetroLsx to come out with them which I understand will be soon. By the way Shawn is a former employee of BRP. I did buy the RetroLSX oil pan and that is a very nice piece. Oh I also paid $100 dollars for Flowmaster 3" ball flanges for the collectors. For over $700 the O2 sensor bungs and the ball flanges should come already installed. Just adding my $.02 to this thread. Rich
05-02-2010, 08:28 AM
#22
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Like i said though, the sanderson S10 LS1 Headers from Car Shop Inc. Fit like a Glove on both sides no clearence work required and you can get them ceramic coated!! Mine were $265.00 but I bought the uncoated ones because I wrapped them and cut the collectors off and welded on V-Bands!
05-12-2010, 09:47 PM
#23
Like i said though, the sanderson S10 LS1 Headers from Car Shop Inc. Fit like a Glove on both sides no clearence work required and you can get them ceramic coated!! Mine were $265.00 but I bought the uncoated ones because I wrapped them and cut the collectors off and welded on V-Bands!
05-13-2010, 08:07 PM
#24
Like i said though, the sanderson S10 LS1 Headers from Car Shop Inc. Fit like a Glove on both sides no clearence work required and you can get them ceramic coated!! Mine were $265.00 but I bought the uncoated ones because I wrapped them and cut the collectors off and welded on V-Bands!
http://carshop.carshopinc.com/produc...08585/PEPH8073
05-13-2010, 08:18 PM
#25
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Yes they are shorties! Thats why I extended them myself and added the Vband Collectors! The part number is CAR SHOP PEPH8073 It does not say Sanderson on the add, I bought mine like one and a half years ago!! They look just like mine but the picture is turned where I cant see the Sanderson logo on them!!
05-22-2012, 04:08 PM
#28
I see a lot of people say this and that works great or decent but no mentions really of what motor mounts were used. Mainly adapters plates? Custom? Standard plate? 1in setback plate?
Best bet still seems to be pacesetters 98-02 fbody 1 3/4in I believe. Dent a tube on passenger or cut a tube, reposition and weld it back up. Even if you have someone else do the welding you should come out cheaper then $600++ headers. Driver side is said to slide right in. All of this with 1in setbacks
Best bet still seems to be pacesetters 98-02 fbody 1 3/4in I believe. Dent a tube on passenger or cut a tube, reposition and weld it back up. Even if you have someone else do the welding you should come out cheaper then $600++ headers. Driver side is said to slide right in. All of this with 1in setbacks
05-22-2012, 04:52 PM
#30
I see a lot of people say this and that works great or decent but no mentions really of what motor mounts were used. Mainly adapters plates? Custom? Standard plate? 1in setback plate?
Best bet still seems to be pacesetters 98-02 fbody 1 3/4in I believe. Dent a tube on passenger or cut a tube, reposition and weld it back up. Even if you have someone else do the welding you should come out cheaper then $600++ headers. Driver side is said to slide right in. All of this with 1in setbacks
Best bet still seems to be pacesetters 98-02 fbody 1 3/4in I believe. Dent a tube on passenger or cut a tube, reposition and weld it back up. Even if you have someone else do the welding you should come out cheaper then $600++ headers. Driver side is said to slide right in. All of this with 1in setbacks
As for the passenger side, it dropped right in too, except the back of the motor was not in the right spot. So once it dropped one tube hit the frame/suspension mount point. I used a cutting wheel & cut the underside of the tubes right at the head flange so I could bend them downward pulling the tube away from the frame & a "tad" (technical term) closer to the block.
They fut up close to the frame. Which is good. The Hooker headers I had on the LT1 hung way to low for my liking.
EDIT: Forgot to tell you, check Amazon.com for the headers, that is the cheapest I had found, was free shipping & were here in a day. But I think a distribution center is here close to me.
05-22-2012, 05:58 PM
#31
Would like some flanges for them.
I swear it said on amazon that headers came with bolts but I have yet to see any appear in my box lol.
05-23-2012, 01:59 AM
#32
I went the Fbody headers route, screwed the passenger side up, saw the driver side fit but, as others have said, veers out sharply on the exit.
Plus, since I have a column shift, my linkage interfered with the driver side.
I aslo wanted stainless so I decided to use these guys..
http://www.stainlessheaders.com/customergallery
My goals were to have a durable 1 7/8 long tube header that would address the following:
1. Clear all obstructions (Z-bar, shift linkage, frame, control arms, Spark plug wires etc.)
2. Be able to slip them in without removing items ( Starter, Steering shaft etc.)or jacking up the engine.
I can put the front end on jack stands, unbolt them and slip them out and in with no effort/obstructions.
4. Exit straight back in line with the crossmember provisions but keep them as far away from the trans pan as possible for heat reasons
5. Have bolt hole flanges for easy removal
6. Have O2 bung provisions for ECU and Wideband.
7. Make them stainless
Not for those on a budget but for those that are looking for headers to thier exact specifications and lacking fabrication equipment and welding skills (thats me) This would be my recomendation as they absolutely nailed my design right out of the gate..
BTW... I have John Bs mounts
Plus, since I have a column shift, my linkage interfered with the driver side.
I aslo wanted stainless so I decided to use these guys..
http://www.stainlessheaders.com/customergallery
My goals were to have a durable 1 7/8 long tube header that would address the following:
1. Clear all obstructions (Z-bar, shift linkage, frame, control arms, Spark plug wires etc.)
2. Be able to slip them in without removing items ( Starter, Steering shaft etc.)or jacking up the engine.
I can put the front end on jack stands, unbolt them and slip them out and in with no effort/obstructions.
4. Exit straight back in line with the crossmember provisions but keep them as far away from the trans pan as possible for heat reasons
5. Have bolt hole flanges for easy removal
6. Have O2 bung provisions for ECU and Wideband.
7. Make them stainless
Not for those on a budget but for those that are looking for headers to thier exact specifications and lacking fabrication equipment and welding skills (thats me) This would be my recomendation as they absolutely nailed my design right out of the gate..
BTW... I have John Bs mounts
05-23-2012, 02:24 AM
#33
NICE! what did they run for? I wished somebody would have a cheap alternative for us..
I bought some Ebay f body stainless steel one for 100 bucks, Which i plan on modifying to make them fit. seems like they have us G body guys by the "family jewels" for some correct fitting headers. Shoot i would be willing for some painted in high temp paint... And if they were emissions legal for us poor bastards that have to deal with them would even be better!
I bought some Ebay f body stainless steel one for 100 bucks, Which i plan on modifying to make them fit. seems like they have us G body guys by the "family jewels" for some correct fitting headers. Shoot i would be willing for some painted in high temp paint... And if they were emissions legal for us poor bastards that have to deal with them would even be better!
05-23-2012, 09:58 AM
#34
A hefty price to pay I know but I was tired of throwing good money after bad and after seeing and using the finished product I have no regrets.
Keep in mind that if you go to a shop with your car and ask them to make you a custom set of headers, in just mild steel, that fits the requirements I stated, the cost will be easily over this amount.
Basically you are designer and the labor/time spent on the design is where the savings are realized.
They did help me clearance some spark plugs at no extra charge that I had issues clearing with thier elbow and PVC system. Basically, they tell you to make as many notes for exceptions/changes as needed along with a ton of pictures to detail and they mock it up on an LS and tweaked my design as needed for the items I noted.
To anyone thats interested.. I have a pair of Hooker ceramic coated Fbody headers if anyone is interested.
One is trashed (passenger side) and the other (driver side)is unmolested. 40.00 to whoever can come and get them.
