I thought I did.

 

I had to actually replace mine for it to work properly. It wasn't sticking due to carbon or dirt it was from the blade actually forcing itself into the throttle body. Can you see little scrape marks at the bottom or top of the opening where the blade rests?

I bought my replacement on ebay from photz6.

 

I always thought quotes meant what another person actually said. I can assure you I never said anything like what you have quoted.

You called and said you were having a throttle problem and that the shops in you area "wanted thousands of dollars" to look at it because it was a swap.

You also said you were thing of pulling it all off and switching to a carb and an MSD box to get up and running.

I said to check the usual things like proper grounds, etc. I then said what you really need to do is at least find someone with a scan tool or code reader so we can see what codes are being set, and then work from there.

Without knowing the codes being set, every idea or suggestion is just shooting in the dark.

I then said, at the very worst, you could load it on a trailer and bring it down here (Detroit to Indiana) and we would analyze it and fix it while you wait.

We probably wouldn't even need to get it off of the trailer.

I don't know how in world that conversation translates into "I don't know and I can't think of anything it could be".



I'll give you an example of a guy that gave up on trying to figure out his electronic throttle problem and did have his car trailered here.

I put the Tech 2 on it and the APP sensor settings were too low and out of range. I told him it looks like a bad pedal. I pulled a new one off the shelf, hooked it up to his harness, and perfect throttle operation.

So I went ahead and bolted the new pedal in his car, he got in and started it to put it on the trailer, and same problem, no throttle. Ok, now I know there must be something wrong with the actual installation, so I removed the pedal and saw that there was a ridge in his firewall.

When the pedal was bolted down solid over the ridge, the flange of the pedal was being bowed backwards which allowed the APP sensors to drop out of range.

20 cents worth of flat washers trued up his mounting surface and his old pedal went back on and has worked perfect ever since.

The moral of the story is that I could have talked to him for 2 days on the phone and never figured out the actual problem, even knowing the codes.

You have choices on what you can do to get it running, pay thousands, put a carb on it, bring it here and get it fixed, get the codes read, etc., etc., but to say I offered no help is untrue.

 

Mr.Spears I intended no disrespect, just a ton ofpeople expecting the person the harness was modified by to have a ton of answers. I was frustrated, I do appreciate your offer but a drive to your shop is not possisible at this time. Again I did not intend to tarnish your established name, thank you for the offer and I do apologize.

 

I believe the problem has been located. I checked all connections and everything was plugged correctly. So I followed the advice and begin unpluging thing. Eventually when everything was completely connected my hand scanner caught an error code. Screen said (Communication lost with Throttle Actuator). So once I removed that from the line,the car idled and sat there running for 8-10 minutes. The throttle did not do the clicking/fluttering. So now I need a T.A.C. box to try out and see if the problem is solved.

 

This is the box from the original harness, t.a.c.box, original pedal, original pcm and throttle body. They all came from the 2007 chevy 1500hd donor vehicle.

 

LS1 type PCM with seperate TAC box?

 

I'm gonna be bald by the time I figure this out!!!
TB is now spotless and the butterfly moves easily when cycled by hand, but peddle control of the TB is a hit or miss situation. Time to back probe all of the connectors and check the actual applied voltages.

Grounds are all good and there is 12VDc going into the TAC Module. More info and complaining later.

 

tac box I have is part #12590008, and it is stock, from the donor truck as well as the pcm and all other parts.

 

Figured mine out. Bad ground wire, broke somewhere between the TAC Module and the grounding point on the block.

 

Okay.......I lied.

Still only works intermittantly. Hoping to borrow a scanner today though I don't know whether the OBD2 system reports enough detailed errors to make it worth while.

Here's what I've come up with as fars votlages are concerned.
At the TAC Module I've got the following:
Conn C1
Pin #2 = 4.89vdc
Pin #6 = 12vdc
Pin #7 = 12vdc
Pin #12 = 3.6vdc**
Pin #13 = 3.6vdc**

Conn C2
Pin B = 4.19 vdc
Pin E = 5.0 vdc
Pin D = 0.0vdc


**Serial Data pins so this measurement shouldn't really matter at this point.

Any other measurements that would help get this sorted out?

 

Mire measurements
At the peddle connector, key on and engine on:

5 vdc and Low Ref.
A = 4.9 vdc
K = 0.0 vdc
J = 5.0 vdc

APP Sensor #1
G = 5.0 vdc
F = .6 vdc at no throttle to 3.6 vdc at full throttle
E = 0.0 vdc

APP Sensor #2
D = 5.0 vdc
C = .6 vdc at no throttle to 3.16 vdc at full throttle
E = 5.0.0 vdc

At the Throttle Motor, Key on Engine on
Pin A to Ground 13.2 vdc
Pin C to Ground 14.0 vdc

Bad TAC Module?

 

Finally able to check the error codes and this is what I got.
P1518 No Serial Data Connection between TAC and PCM.
Might be just from disconnecting the TAC.

P0740
P0785
Hmmmmm, TCC circuit and shift solenoid issues. Probably a stupid wiring error on my part.

P1860
More TCC wiring maybe?

It Reeeeeeeaaalllllyyy helps to have a scanner on hand.

 

It's been a rough week at work so I haven't been able to get in my garage. Last time i scanned I got a message that said "computer lost communication with the T.A.C.. So I tried a little junk yard searching couldn't find a match. I bought a T.A.C. brand new from the dealership $110.00, so now I just need to plug it in and play. I will keep you guys up dated. If this is the problem great, but if not, edlebrock carb/intake here I come.

 

@ FrankZ Hope all your problems sort out. Good luck brother.

 

Hey 68 Impala,

If you have the intake pipe disconnected from the throttle the car is not able to read the actually air coming in through the MAF. If you get a leak between the MAF and Throttle body the throttle acts up.

That pipe need to be bolted on and clamped and check for any vac ports open that you might of missed. Secret port on back of intake missed alot under MAP sensor location.

The car will not stay running if the throttle is sensing unmetered air which is what is happening with the air intake pipe off throttle body.

My 2 cents.

RAlph
78 Malibu LS6/DBW

 

I figured out that once I properly cleared my reoccuring error code(p1518) the throttle will work till I shut it down, upon restart I get the same No Throttle condition and error code.

 

Great advice, I will check it out. Thanks 78 Malibu.

 

Ok thanks for all the advice guy, but the fuel injection has been scraped. Went to livernoir motorsports and ordered intake/msd box/tci trans controller, today. Thank you all.

 

This is really starting to **** me off. I can't get the throttle to work at all know and have tried 2 different TAC modules, and have a damn near constant P1518 error code. 12vdc available to the module.

Any thoughts?