Thanks man, Ive done some reading on this and I was a little worried as the instructions did not call for this. With that being said and you asking I wrote Josh at american powertrain and this was his response:

You do not have to do the dial indication with the Magnums because it is a flush mount transmission. That means there is no retainer that the bell seats on. That is a good thing because there is no room for out of line tolerances on the bell. The input is not part of the bell like on the Muncie transmissions.

Thank you. It is getting there slowly. I cant wait for the day I can turn the key.

 

man where are you located? if its any where close by, id love to check it out.

this is just like a dream build for me

 

NJ, Thanks man. Its my dream build to..just taking some time because money dosnt grow on trees..

Got over to the car with my brother on Wednesday night for a bit. Put the starter in and torqued the bolts to 37ft-lbs. Also plumbed the extension for the oil pressure gauge so that the huge sender is located inside the cabin now. Received the jeep 5 pod gauge cluster so did a quick mock up of the smaller gauges. Should work out fine but it will have to be modified some. My brother installed the shifter boot and trim, probably should have went with a taller boot to cover up the bolts and such but I’m not too worried about it at the moment. We mocked up the fuel rails and we both agreed that the red sticks out. That will be changed later. I still have to figure out what way the spark plug wires are going to run. Locate the coils in the front of the headers or mount them near the firewall. Either way I know I need high temp sleeves so I ordered them off of eBay for 30 bucks.

Being that the gauges where such a good deal I had to buy them, from past experience with standard lighting in autometer gauges I would never purchase a non-led gauge..the lighting at night is horrible. With that said I've been doing some digging on led lights for them. Well autometer charges 10/bulb. I need like 11 bulbs...that isn’t happening. So I found some led bulbs that should work on eBay for 13 shipped for 10. They have been ordered. My next problem with the gauges is that the water housing has been tapped for a temp sensor by the previous owner. I didn’t think about this up until I went to put the sensor in. Well it does not fit. So after talking to my brother we decided the best thing was to tap the hole a little bigger and put an adapter in. The problem is that the smallest adapter that we can find that works is 1/2 -18. The standard sizes for a 1/2 are course at 13 and fine at 20. So a special tap has been ordered for the task.

I ordered the steering column seals and boot today so they will be here next week. That should wrap up the steering install. The only thing that needs to be done still is clean up the split plate that mounts to the firewall but that will be this weekend.

In other news the engine harness, maf, ecu, O2 sensors, dbw pedal..ect had been ordered through PSI conversion. Was told it should be here around early next week. The interior wiring from AAW should be here next week, and the ricks stainless tank also. The fuel line and all the AN fittings are due to come today. So if there is time that will be started this weekend. Here are some pictures because no one likes reading..








much more to come...

 

My interior wiring harness should be here tomorrow so thats next on the list. The engine harness should be here late this week, early next week as Jon is wating on my ecu still.

I got over to the car this weekend and made the crossover line for the fuel rails. Went a lot easier than I had thought. I also ran the fuel line to the rear of the car so when my tank comes in I can slap it in and finish the last line. Then on sunday I went to ace hardware and picked up and angle finder to figure out want my driveline needs to be at and try to set it. Heres what I came up with:

First reading on the tranny was around 84-85.
Then measured the rear which was around 90-91.
Ok.. so from what Ive read in the past I need to be around no more than 3 degrees for the U-joints to be happy. I'm off 3-4 degrees in total. So I went to the rear and adjusted the lower links by screwing them in some. Remeasured and came up with around 86-87. So Im around a difference of 2 degrees. Does this seem ok to all you driveline guys? I will be measuring and ordering my driveshaft this week now that thats done, or so I hope. Here some picture of the angles..

Tranny


Rear before adjustment


Rear after ajustment


Next up is a lot of wiring..

 

Very good to know, thanks for posting his response.

 

Feels like I’ve been working on the car a ton but not to much is actually done. Received the vaporworx tank from Rick yesterday so we tried to wrap the fuel system up. The fuel lines are pretty much wrapped up. Made a cross-over line for the fuel rails and ran the main line under the car on the inside of the frame rails and attached it with 1/2" rubber wrapped clamps. Came out ok but where the floor meets the subframe connector the fuel line looks to be the lowest point. I’m either going to make a small channel for the line to fit into or move the line to in-between the frame rail and pinch weld. How is everyone running their lines? Also made another small line to attach to the tank and hold the fitting for the pressure sensor. All that is left is the AN fitting that connects the AN line to the actual tank pump, should be here sooner than later.

In other news we've been working on the wiring of the car. This is going to take some time and it has to be routed very neat, so were going slow. Got the main fuse box and rear harness pretty much worked out.

We received the hightemp boots for the plug wires as they are very close to the headers in many spots. So I did a dry fit on them. Still need to figure out where the coils will be located. In front of the motor on the subframe or in/under the firewall behind the motor. Neither way is going to be easy but I'd like a clean installation. Any suggestions?

Also we installed the water sensor on the water pump housing as there was already a hole in it from the previous owner so that is done. Other than the injectors, coil location, and headers to be tightened the engine is done.

The engine wiring should be here late this week or early next week. So that will be soon. Here are some quick pictures..

 

wow man.. simply amazing.. you have purchased my dream parts one after another.

 

Thanks man. This has been me and my dads dream for awhile. It's nice to finally be able to afford all the things we want the car to have. Now I'm thinking of a new set of shocks and upper and lower arms for the car...


Not to much done this weekend but managed to get to the car some while the boy was sleeping. The fuel line was bothering me. I had ran it inside of the frame rail but near the low point of the floor pan the line was actually the lowest point on the car. Being that I plan on driving it and having it lower than it is I knew I had to redo it..he's some pictures..








More wiring up next..

 

Received the engine harness from PSI Conversion. John has been great to work with, answers the phone almost every time and if he doesn’t he calls me back asap. He has been a pleasure to work with so far. My ECU and one O2 sensor is on back ordered but I can still move forward with the wiring. I got over to the car for a couple hours on Monday night. Mocked up the wiring just to get a feel for where it all needs to lay, run before I make anything permanent. I’m mounting the ECU near the glove box area so Ill probably run the main harness through the firewall around the trans tunnel/around the bell area. Trying to keep it away from the headers as much as I can.

I also mocked up the front seat to see how it fit with the roll cage, shifter. I plan on buying two front covers from corbeau in the near future. Will go with black leather as the black cloth holds everything it touches, plus there’s a small rip on the cover from when I had it in my STi.

In other news some buying has been done. Ordered a full relay, solenoid kit from Mark at Mad Electrical. He is a great guy that knows too much. Have read great things about his kit and am glad to hopefully have the battery/power set up bought and worked out. I also bought some "used" injectors off a member that are brand new in the box. They are Fast 57lb #30572 injectors and should fit my application nicely. Also orders a yellow top optima battery, billet specialties hold down tray, some ground straps, 1 gauge 20' of power and 3' of ground cable, and two through panel connectors. That should wrap up the battery/power system and fuel system. Still working on the wiring atm..

 

Not to much of an update to show. Been working on the AAW kit and making headway. The main harness, rear harness, main cluster, and courtesy harness is pretty much wrapped up now. Me and the old man mocked up the front end to start on the wiring on the front end next. Putting the grill trim on I know I don't want it all silver..doesn't look right to me. It will be painted some sort of black sooner than later.

In other news the ecu and the rest of the PSI sensor are in so that still on the list. I'm having a hard time figuring out where to run the spark plug wires. I wanted them tucked close to the block and mount the coils in the rear or low on the frame in the front but the wires seem to touch the headers too much even with the boots. The cleanest safest solution I've come up with is to mount the coils behind the wheel wells in between the fender and firewall. I have a picture just have to find it. Im just not crazy about how it will look. What are other guys doing for this problem? I've seen some really nice clean cars but no write up or info on this..any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Not much to update with lately. Still sorting through the wiring portion little by little. Rather take the time and make sure its correct then rush through it all. In other news the upper and lower rad hoses have been ordered. Still have to order the radiator & fans, should take about a week to make it and with shipping another week at most. Im going with the entropy unit for an ls swap and will be getting the larger 1.25" tubes as opposed to the standard 1" that they offer. I've read some great reviews on their product so Im excited for that, should be sooner than later.

Timmy was over this past weekend and we talked about the gauges and both agreed that a custom set up would fit the car better. We also talked about the main gauge cluster that will hold the speedo & tach. He said he could whip that old plastic housing into shape. Here are some of the pictures he has sent me. Its all tunring out great...:thumbsup:








more to come..:thumbsup:

 

That cluster is going to look really nice when its done,I Love this build

 

holy crap.. first time seeing this build.. amazing.. the 1st gen camaro is also my favorite.. and i plan on building mine when my "mid life crisis" times comes around lol i should be able to afford it by then.. where in nj are you? im in central area..

 

Awesome build, subscribed.

 

Don't use the float arm sender for the rocks tank ,it won't work ver good!call up isspro and tell them u want a sender for your ricks tanks,much better option!i just got one and am swapping mine out due to the old float arm never working

 

Wow very nice build and congrats on your lil one. I just spent the last hour reading this whole build and i have to say i didn't blink much in the process haha. I cant wait to see the final results of this beauty and the beast that's resting under the hood. You and your old man and everyone else involved in this build have alo't of talent and most deff share a big passion and love for the car hobby and most important being involved as family and making memories that will never be forgotten. I hope that one day when i have kids of my own i can share a build like this with them. It's people like you and your family that make me stay and continue in the car hobby. Great job guys and keep up the great work.

 

Thanks for all the kind words guys. Wiring is not my strong suit and sometimes I step back and look and become overwhelmed at the wiring as a whole. Me and the old man have been tackling it one piece at a time, man it is a lot. I just keep thinking of the time Ill finally get to turn the key.. Last weekend me and the old man got my brother and 3 other guys to come over to really tackle this thing. The good news is that the front headlight harness, the vaporworx harness (w/ the exception of the power feed wire), and the engine/ecu wiring is done (w/ the exception of the 6-7 leads inside, power to the fuel pump, alternator power wire, and a couple sensor that need to be addressed). What is left is what was mentioned above, the Mad electrical stuff, and the AAW engine side of the firewall, finish the battery hook up, wiring to the starter, and finish some dash wiring. So still plenty left..but we are getting there. I’m trying to do it once the correct way instead of rushing and having to go back.

In other news Timmy is making progress on the gauge cluster and has to come back over for one last fit before he can put his final touches on it. It’s coming out great and I'm glad this is the route that we went. I got 4 small led lights from classic dash to have them wired into the stock dash cluster for turn signals, high beams, and brakes or check engine light so that will be soon. Now that the fuel stuff is all wired I plan on having Timmy also make a small panel to hold the pump, fuse..ect. It will be located right near the battery.


Onto some pictures from the past 2 weeks.











and the future car owner testing out his seat...

 

So last night I took off from working on the car to spend some time with the family. I brought home a little clean project to work on while watching TV before bed. I’m still figuring out how I want the coils /spark plug wires to run. Id really like them to run under the headers and mount the coils to the frame in front of the motor out of sight. With that being said I know that heat is going to be the biggest problem. I bought some DEI heat shield for the wires that is rated to 500 degrees. I also have the end boots that are rated to over 1200 degrees. Between the two I think they should be fine... So I took apart the wires and ran the DEI sleeves over each one. Here are some pictures..

 

Got over to the car this weekend for a bit while the baby was napping. Still plugging away at the wiring. Not to much left really. Have to finish the wiring for the tach and water gauge , the 6-7 wires for the ecu, run the power for the fuel pump, put in two more main grounds, wire up the radiator/fans, run a power from the alternator to the main power connection, and run a power for the interior wiring to the main power connection. Actually looking at it wrote out it is enough. Soon enough. Mike and I ran the main power block to the drivers fender so I can get to it but it's out of the way enough that there should be no problems with anything else coming in contact with it. Extended the main power wire for the ecu to that and put the fuseable links in, also finished running the main power wire from the battery to it. Today I had some time so I drilled a hole in the floorboard for the pass thru connector. Mounted that and cut the main 1 gauge to size and finished crimping the ends. Also made the main wire to go from the connector on the engine bay side to the starter. In other news the radiator has been ordered and should be here soon. Also ordered a maf sensor so that should wrap up the ecu potion of wiring.

On Saturday the brake lines came in from inline tube. Seems like a really nice kit. Ordered all stainless and when I opened it I was scratching my head a bit as there was 8 lines. I though there was 7 lines for the brakes. Two smalll lines off the master to a distribution block right under the master cylinder. From the distribution block three lines come off that, one to the front right, one to the front left, and one long one to the rear that stops right before the rear axles which goes to a soft line. From the soft line to a "T" mounted on the rear axle which connects to a rear left and rear right line. 7 total. Anyone wanna guide me or tell me what I'm missing? Onto the pictures...

 

You have the brakes lines correct,to how mine are run !