I bought a engine harness from SS m6. Removing anything extra to simplfiy for looks, easier to work on and save any weight. But not sure on a few wires what they do???
Putting this in my 01 Z28 m car. Got it bare wires and De-pinning it. and tracing wires to the firewall connectors and leaving them labled to trace that side were the go on the dash hanress, and body harnss. (AC and Evap stuff. on the "wiretuck" connectors)

With the PCM pin out sheets (red/blue) this is the easist part to keep track of and post up for anyone wanting to do this.

So far on the RED side I removed all these

4. AIR.. niod relay
7. EGR. contraol
13. crusie...
14. AC.. pressuer
17. AC junk
18. AC more junk
34. Evap
37. Cruise
41. egr
43. AC clutch

Not sure on these ???????????
44. Reverse Inhibit Soienid COntraol? thats the revers lock out right, ya I need that when I get to the blue side and skip shift can I remove that that?, any other t56 wires?

46. Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) contraol. Thats the cheak engine light? Mine still works, Just had mike at NewEra tune it as it would come on. Last time was the LPE 2step was tripping it form missifres LOL. Its nice to have to sell me if I have a middifre or somthing. But with the supervic coming up/4150 TB, bigger cams, SD tune I can see not useing it anymore. Can I remove that wire and be oK. I dont know it it singals The BCM or somthing else like the vats will get pissed?

64 Fuel Tank Pressuer Sencor Singal, Is that Evap? or for the gas gauge? I'm keeping the gas gauge useing the stock tank and. And what the stock gauge to work. But removing the Evap. What system is it for? both?


The cam sencor is wired, you know that connctor on the front of the passanger side head that plugs into another end and gose back into the wire loom. thats the cam secor wires. Like the LS1 was going to be front engine sencor like gen4? You think you could just remove the " pig tail" harness thats tapped in the harness. And move the plug to the back and re loom it there. But the plug ends (the lock clip) are a little diffrent and the wires are switrched. I think I just just De-Pin the wires off the PCM form the conector thats up were EGR would be. And instal them in ther conector that fit the cam sencor and good to go, if its thats easy?

Blue side-
Removed:

25. 02 low bank2 sen2
28 02 low bank 1 sen2
41 egr
45 ac
55 egr
65 02 high bank2 sen2
68 02 hight bank1 sen2

Not sure on if I can remove it and if it affects somthing else

23. Fuel tank Pressuer Sensor/Fuel tank sender ground ?? evap? or gas gauge or fuel pump???

46.Fuel tank pressuer Sendor 5V referance ??same???

70. Low oil level. Can I remove that but still keep the "oil can" light on the dash for oil presseur. I want to keep that working, but don't need the oil level crap.

79. Skip shift? can I remove that ok, any side affect? will it lock out somthing else?????

 

All of your assumptions are correct except the gas gauge. It is independent of the PCM and requires no fuel tank sensor input. The sender mounted in the bucket or whatever hybrid setup you go with will put out it's own signal to the gauge

Im not sure why the cam sensor has an inline connector moved to the front of the rail. There must be some sort of diagnostic that requires the cam signal to be interrupted for a short period. Even more odd is only F-body LS1s use this. From what Ive seen, trucks and vettes have no such connector. When I rebuild a harness, I depin the cam sensor body and the to-be-junked connector. The pins are reversed between the connectors. New pinout should be:

A BRN/WHT Cam Signal B73
B PNK/BLK Low Reference B61
C RED 12v IGN R39

Pins to remove without affecting function 99-02 PCMs

Blue:
17 Trans
18 Trans
23 Fuel tank pressure
25 Rear O2
28 Rear O2
33 Trans
34 P/Neutral for autos
45 AC
46 Fuel tank pressure
53 Trans
55 EGR
65 Rear O2
68 Rear O2
70 Oil level
79 CAGS (Must be tuned out of the PCM or will throw a code)

Red:
2 Trans
4 AIR
6 Trans
7 EGR
8 Trans
13 Cruise
14 AC
17 AC
18 AC
30 VATS fuel enable (tune required)
34 EVAP
36 AIR
37 Cruise
42 Trans
43 AC
45 EVAP
47 Trans
48 Trans
51 Trans
53 Traction control
54 Fuel level
63 Trans
64 Fuel tank pressure
70 Oil level

 

thanks a ton pocket

I started removing some wires then end up going into the BCM. But wasnt sure if they will cause a problem? so I left them for now.
I want that to still be happy, I dont want to have any problems with that VATS the the Key not working. I wnat the keyfob, and door locks to still work/ power windows. And the alarm.


I run aftermarking fixed seat, and already removed the wires going to the stock seats, but I can remove them going to the BCM and it will be happy still?
c4
c14

I'm fine with useing the Key to open the hatch so I can remove that stuff too right?
D3
D4
D13

 

No idea on the BCM. I build harnesses for swap cars

 

Ok, ya that stuff is diffrent.

So I can remove all the stuff I listed for the PCM. All the fuel stuff going to the PCM is Evap, and my gas gauge will work right.

Do you know if I can remove the oil level sencor and still have my dash light work for the " red oil can" for the oil pressuer? I wnat that to work in case somthing happends. I just remove all the oil level wires, and be fine, or do I have to ground that pin of somthing?

 

Level the oil level light if you want. It's false security though

Hopefully you check your oil semi regularly

 

I have a smaller aftermarket wheel, and I can see the oil presser gauge alot better then the stock steering wheel. I watch it every time I start the car just as habit. I check the oil it a lot maybe every other week. I race the car about that much just for some info on what Im doing.
I dont see me needing the oil level stuff, maybe if the car wheelies big and it bottoms out hard, these cars will crack the oil pan and leak fast. I'd turn the car off and check of that happened. lol

 

If you smashed the pan into the ground, all the lubricant would dump on the ground and youd be at zero oil pressure instantly followed by a few bearings. The oil level circuit is for lazy people who never check the oil and often doesnt even work

 

I was going over this again, and found pin 45 (blu) is egr you can remove too.

Pins to remove without affecting function 99-02 PCMs

Blue:
17 Trans
18 Trans
23 Fuel tank pressure
25 Rear O2
28 Rear O2
33 Trans
34 P/Neutral for autos
41 EGR
45 AC
46 Fuel tank pressure
53 Trans
55 EGR
65 Rear O2
68 Rear O2
70 Oil level
79 CAGS (Must be tuned out of the PCM or will throw a code)


still not 100% sure on the red side pin 53 Traction control/ spark retard signal. grey.blk wire goes to the EBCM ele. brake control module? i don't know what that is? just has one wire going to it??
and pin 54, fuel level. what dose the pcm need that for?

 

Sorry, EGR isnt listed for my 01-02 pinout I glanced over

R53 is for traction control. Swap in a non-TCS throttle cable, then that module and related wiring can go. Some guys have used it for timing retard on nitrous runs

B54 is direct line to the BCM

Essentially you need this to run


And one of these to control the trans



If it's not listed in those, it's not required. Its BCM, or other non critical function related and up to you to decide to add it on or delete it

 

cool, thanks alot pocket. you have been a big help

 

is this a pic someone made up or would this be available for the gm truck ECM's and harnesses? if so where from?

 

Its a diagram I drew to help build harnesses. It applies to any DBC GEN III engine running a 99+ red/blue PCM

If you're truck harness is 99-03, then it applies. If its green/blue then check the pinout and reassign the PCM positions on the diagram. Most are the same

 

Very helpful! Thanks guys.

 

If I am keeping the stock air conditioning pump, do I just leave the wires in for that?

 

If you are keeping it, it wouldn't make much sense to remove the wires for it.

Or am I missing your question.

 

How about a 97 GMC Yukon what wires can I remove on that harness