SVS Muffler Shop

Check out the pics in my second post to this thread and you'll be able to see the crossmember in it's original form with the steering still there.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

It's a little tough to see the scale of things in the pics.
Looks like I may scrap the 380sl idea and do a Porsche 944 this winter.

SVS Muffler Shop

Here's all of the pics from the engine bay before we started.

SVS Muffler Shop

Here is an update on the project. We finally got our hands on the new front clip. And, after a few swear words and some minor frustration got the clip bolted in the car. We found out the hard way that the stock wheels will no longer be a valid option, so much for the stock sleeper look. This clip moves the steering up front, as it is Mustang 2 based, which leaves all sorts of room for the Camaro oil pan. It also allowed us to put the motor back another 2.5"-3", and down another 2". We might be able to use the factory AC brackets and pump since the new subframe is so much wider. I will post more pics of the next motor test fit in the next couple of days.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Who makes that front clip?

SVS Muffler Shop

FATMAN FAB. makes the setup. It doesn't come cheap though.

SVS Muffler Shop

We got the new subframe installed and put the factory AC compressor back on the motor for another test fit.

SVS Muffler Shop

New update to the project. Yesterday we did all of our measurements and welded in our motor mounts. We are using the factory style rubber motor mount and fabricated the pedestals out of 1/4" wall 1.25" tube and 1/4" plate. Check out the pics. The pass side is done, the driver's side will be done today. I'll try to get some pics up with the motor bolted in. Next step is the trans cross member.

SVS Muffler Shop

Anyone out there that has done a one-off LS1 swap please chime in on this build. We still have a lot of fab work to do and tons of electrical nightmares ahead of us. If you have any good info on elec. fans / radiators. Setting up/wiring the gages etc. We will probably go to aftermarket gages, so if you know of good plug and play options let us know. Thanks

-Steve Cyrus
SVS Muffler Shop

SVS Muffler Shop

We just got done with the motor mounts yesterday. This morning we dropped the motor in place and bolted it down. These are the pics of the motor in and our first trans test fit. FINALLY!

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

The mercedes wiring is a nightmare of relays, switches, and fuses. I was planning on stripping the entire harness out and putting in an aftermarket generic one. I did that on my 68 corvette. Well that and I went from a 60 amp alternator to a 140 amp alternator.

SVS Muffler Shop

We're planning on doing the same thing essentially. We've pulled all of the MB engine harness out and just have to take the dash out to get the rest of it. We're planning on making a gage cluster that will fit in the factory location, and just re-use the MB light wiring. Does your '68 have an LS1 in it? If so what gages did you use?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

It's got an LQ9, same as I was planning for the mercedes. I used the original gauges so the interior looks stock.
My build thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...eed-build.html

Nashty

iTrader: (7)

Curious as to why the stock wheels can't be used? If it's track width, there are options. I had to narrow my Heidts M2 crossmember 3 times (2 after initially installed) to get it to fit under the fenders.

There is a narrower brake rotor option. I machined the outer bearing race seat of a mid 90's camaro in 0.2" and was able to use that on the M2 spindle. That gained me about an 1.5" in track width. You can get 5/8" narrower control arms also.

If it's just bolt pattern, that's easy to fix also.

My frame is so narrow now that I have about 1/4" at the alternator to frame and the AC, which is still in the same position, has about 1/8". I made a new AC bracket up from scratch.

Got a picture of the overall car?

SVS Muffler Shop

We thought the wheels would fit and had the rotors drilled and studded in the MB pattern. Unfortunately, once we bolted up the front end we found that the wheels would not clear the center hub section of the new rotors. Not just that, the MB wheels won't clear the caliper either. The track width is correct, so we'll probable go with a 15" or larger stock MB wheel off of another MB. To answer your question about putting up a pic of the whole car, I will and I didn't realize I hadn't already.

Thomo5150

Did you guys have pic's of the LS motor with the GTO front pan trying to fit in the engine bay with the original crossmember?. I find it hard to believe a modified GTO and some shorty headers wouldn't fit that engine bay. I did a 351 Windsor into the same model many moons ago. Would have been cheaper than a custom rack and all the other pieces?????

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I measured a 380sl and a GTO oil pan. The space between the crossmember and radiator support is about the size of the GTO oil pan. But the mercedes oil pan kicks out in front of the engine. In order to fit the LS motor w/ GTO pan, it looks like you would have to move the engine forward AND notch out the back of the pan.

Thomo5150

I though the right sump and some custom headers would have been cheaper than a custom rack change. Even a ARE dry sump set up would be less in cost. I think a lot of people would see this conversion and dismiss it as being to hard. There is alway more than one way to skin a cat, as they say.

SVS Muffler Shop

I'll try to find some pictures of the GTO pan installed to give you a better idea as to why it wouldn't work. Essentially the engine sits about 4" farther forward than our current set up and about 3" higher. There is also no way to run the exhaust pipes with the stock steering box in the vehicle, not to mention the stock steering assem. I suppose it could be done but the conversion wouldn't look very good at all. We did tons of measurements with the stock suspension modified without the steering components and it was just not a feasible option for our particular build. We are building the car to look like it could have been built with an LS1 in it from the factory. We are also making this car to be a completely road worthy and smog legal vehicle, so we aren't looking to cut corners to save costs.

Thomo5150

Would like to see the pic's. Point from our side of the world as soon as we cut or modifiy the crossmember we then need a engineers certificate for the modification. This adds to the costs big time. With the different types of dry sump kits avaliable for the LS engines the sump issues are resolved. Would like to see the steering box issues.