96t/acj

iTrader: (1)

If you had the big block then ur frame stands are the wrong ones. i suggest the ones from a 327 nova there tall and thin.

bonecrrusher

iTrader: (1)

That pan from RetroLsx?

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

what'd the car have in it originally? 350 maybe? mine came with a super-HD (not) 307, so i'm assuming it had the taller frame brackets (per the pozzi racing link). It still took some work to get 'em to fit though.

there's some info at performancetrucks.net concerning using truck accessories with a car intake (or DL my swap info below), in case you want to go that route.

and i had no interferance with a power disc booster and lq4. it was a little tight, but not too big a deal. the engine did hit the heater core nipples though. i'm surprised you could run a BB with the stock core, i hear they hit as well. i'd find a BB core from a '70 (BB wasn't an option in '71) while you've got everything out. and fyi the local parts stores don't differentiate between the two - you have to either get them online or buy one for a 1st gen f-body with a BB.

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

Okay, I am going crazy. I received the supposedly z28 camaro frame stands (goodmark 4020-335-69) and those are short and narrow, while my others that are in the picture are tall and wide, not short/wide? (goodmark 4020-335-67L).

What the heck are the "tall narrow" frame stands then?

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

Tried flipping the motor plate upside down as recommended by another nova lsx swapper and close, but no cigar


Looks like my pan might be hitting the crossmember first

Also, the passengers side frame mount must be way to wide, no matter how much I seem to try and hammer on the passengers side motor mount, it does not want to go all the way down on the frame stand

DCx

iTrader: (12)

you need the tall stands. the short 350/302 stands wont work. also throw out those energy motor mounts and run some stock rubber mounts. that fixed all my engine troubles in my 69 camaro. im running carshop engine plates.

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

Let me ask you folks who have bought the frame stands, where did you purchase them from, and have there been any motor plates that just have not worked out well.

I am guessing one or the other are causing a lot of problems, that and it looks like the jz motorworks pan is too deep in the front and is causing problems.

DCx

iTrader: (12)

i went through hell trying to figure out what mounts to run. i bought a set of the short mounts from classic industries and they were junk.

my car came with the tall wide 327 mounts from the factory.

if i remember correctly i ran a little larger drill bit through the mount hole just to give it a little more room. is there a transmission attached to your engine? my t56 had a small tab that needed to be cut off of that was contacting the floor before my engine would fall in place.

so for the win. tall 327 stands, short wide factory rubber mounts, and car shop engine plates.

here is a page that details the engine stands

http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_engine.htm

also forgot to add im running an autokraft pan. it would sit directly on the subframe with the energy mounts, once i switched to the factory mounts it gave me just enough clearance.

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, I have the 4l80e attached to the motor with a tranny jack under it.

I have the rubber motor mounts, the tall wide frame stands, and swap plates that are made like the car shop plates (ebay knock offs). Wonder why mine is still so off. I guess I need to keep playing with it........

thanks for the info

350SS

iTrader: (38)

Don't know if this is the answer to the mount problem but you might want to check out a similar problem here:

(starting with post 12)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-lsx-swap.html

and a potential solution https://ls1tech.com/forums/13490247-post13.html

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

If I understand correctly, those setback addapters put the back of the motor in the same position as the original SBC the LSX replaced. That is good for keeping trans position if you're reusing the trans since you could conceivably use the same crossmember and driveshaft. But I haven't read enough to find out if there will be adequate firewall clearance in an X-body. I like how those adapters position the engine a bit higher than the other adapters. Seems a lot better for oilpan clearance, but I'm not sure about hood clearance.

By the way, I live very close to a National Parts Depot. I could go by and measure the different frame stands they carry for 1st gen Camaros if you'd like.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Energy Suspension has a page on the correct mesurement of the mounts that should match up to either the mounts (T/N or S/W).

http://www.energysuspension.com/prod...or-Mounts.html

350SS

iTrader: (38)

In my Nova, I placed my motor where the trans is in the stock location and there is about 1/16" clearance between the passenger side head and the firewall with the heater box removed. Not enough for some people but works for me for now...I'll probably clearance it some more when I have the motor out in the future. As for the mounts placing the motor higher... the bolt holes being lower aren't really for placing the motor higher...theyre for moving the motor mounts downward to make up for the thickness of the plates which changes the geometry with respect to the angled frame mounts... You can see in his pics that the motor mounts need to come downward a bit and things will fit

69bigblock

Are you using the the metal plates behind the mounts? The ones that came with the energy mounts. I had to toss those because it would not sit all the way down on the frame stands.
Bryan

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

I have tried it both ways. Still no real difference. I will try the tall stands with rubber mounts and 1" setback plates this week and see what happens.

69bigblock

If you have a heater box chances are its going to hit. Had the problem with my hooker plates and just didn't work on my car so I ended up redrilling the holes to put the bolts in the same location as the moroso/transdapt and other mounts out there. Just a heads up.. usually when you buy the adapter plates they recommend a type of engine mount.

1972nova

iTrader: (13)

I will be doing this soon and have the energy mounts already with the same stands, so I am curious in the fix...

on a side note will be painting my block orange...that looks great

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

don't give up hope! i remember doing the exact same thing in mine. granted, my oil pan didn't hit the center link, so i could 'coax' the engine down a bit. i ended up just running the driver's side mount, and letting the passenger-side sit there - the trans mount keeps it from moving around too much. it really sounds like your pan is the issue. i have no experience with this specific pan (i went w/ a notched f-body pan), so maybe another nova guru that used it could help?

your stands look exactly like mine (see pic below), and i think you should ream out the holes to get the bolts to slide through. i'm sure the General did much worse while the car was on the assembly line.

here's how mine looked:


btw... i was kidding about only running 1 thru bolt for the mounts. i used a dead-blow to knock the other side in.

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

Okay, I tried the 1" set-back plates and no better results. I tried cutting off the little lip on the motor mounts (rubber 307 mounts) and it sits better on the frame stand upside down better, but still the oil pan hits the crossmember before both can be bolted down.

How the heck do the people using the truck pan get it to clear the crossmember?

Jimbo1367

aren't those tall stands? they look awfully tall to me.