Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

Thats the route im going, except i think my fuel system can handle more, and im going with twins for the visual aspect. Driving around with no hood sides and twins looks bad A$$ if you ask me.

BahamutRacing

LS1 Iron Block is 88 lbs. heavier than the aluminum block. Aluminum is good to around 650hp or so and the iron block can handle around 1k hp on stock set up. 1400 hp with block work. If you are going for boost or s/c than the iron block is the way to go. I have been trying to figure out which block to put in my 240 and have landed on using the 5.3L block. Mine is going to be a drift car so the extra weight in the front will only help me.

ROTAROLLA

Thanks everyone, gonna start pulling my 7 apart on sunday. I'm kinds considering a auto now. I just need to figure out a nice budget Trans/Converter combo that won't suck up too much hp.


A couple photos of my pos.

merim123

iTrader: (11)

Clean car go for it!

danameisoj

iTrader: (2)

i could have swore i saw a thread with you wanting to go 20b???

ROTAROLLA

You did, but I changed my mind.

Black LS-14

iTrader: (1)

I have an LS/FD. It had a 4.8 in it. Iron Block with a T56. It had the Hinson kit for mounting. I have since swapped it out for my aluminum LS1. The 80lbs i took off the nose made the car a little more neutral on the handling. If you are wanting to autoX, then I say spend the extra money and go with the aluminum block. But since you were talking about trap speeds of 145+, then the iron block is the much cheaper, and probably better alternative for you.

BTW, I love your car. Super clean and done in very good taste. White with the black lip kit looks very nice. What side skirts, rear diffuser and wheels are those?

ROTAROLLA

Thanks! Yeah, I don't autocross at all. I mostly cruise around town and periodically take it to the track.

Feed Side Skirts, Re Amemiya Diffuser, Shine Lip and Volt LE37K's.

Going to start pulling out everything to sell on Sunday. I'll probably go with the Hinson Kit since it's cheaper than the Samberg Kit. Do you see any problem with that?

Black LS-14

iTrader: (1)

The hinson kit is fine. The samberg kit is nicer, but it is also more expensive. And you really cant see it after its installed anyway. If I were to do it over, I would get the Granny's kit that keeps the steering rack in its stock location. You have to modify the hood with that kit, but you dont have to use a bumpsteer kit, which Im not a big fan of.
Hopefully youll be one of the 50% that has good luck getting their products from Hinson in a timely fashion.

Of course with your list of just exterior mods, I believe I would go with the best I could buy, since all the rest is. Again, super nice FD.

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

clean FD to start with! It'll be sweet. I like the reupholstered center console.

Spend the extra money on the mounting kit. Samberg trans mount is way better design. Also their diff mount setup that eliminates the torque arm. Bye bye wheel hop and more exhaust clearance also! I've run both kits and the Samberg one is hands down better.

JTR long tube headers only work with T56. An auto requires the Hinson units which are only 3/4 length. Not a true long tube.

5.3 can handle 550-600rwhp reliably under boost. Beyond that you need a built motor.

These cars are soo much better with LSx power vs. the rotary torqueless dud.

ROTAROLLA

Thanks for the compliment!

Thanks for the advice!

A 5.3 can only handle 550whp-600whp? I could have sworn I read that people are putting down 800whp through a 6 speed and stock block?

Here, they talk about it here https://ls1tech.com/forums/11546268-post10.html

Here also, 825whp with stock long block through a 6 speed. https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...847-tires.html

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

I'm talking reliable power. A few banzai pulls will make big power; however the stock piston ringlands will fail and the rods will be the next weak link. If you want 700rwhp+ you need upgraded rods and pistons. If you are going that route then start with a 6.0 or LS2 block as the bore size allows for a better cyl head selection as the valves will be less shrouded. There is no cheap way to make 600whp+ safely.

You should pick up a 5.3 and play with that for a while and then have another motor built when it scatters all over the street when the rods go thru the block.

turbotalon1g

Gorgeous car, LSx/rx7 is my dream build.

danameisoj

iTrader: (2)

i went through the same debate and ended up here as well lol

good luck with your car! its so nice

skinnykenny6066

Ive been reading the threads here lately planning on doing a v8 rx-7 build and was wondering, because everyone is saying to go with the 5.3l which block are you talking about the long or short block??? No one has specified that and Im pretty sure I could fit either into the engine bay.

TTLS1GP

iTrader: (10)

But Seriously: short block

You need Fbody accessories and Pan to shoe horn it in.