I want to run a mechanical water gauge on my LS1. HOW?
 

I want to run a mechanical water temp gauge on my LS motor in my buick. I would like to use the port on the passenger side of the head, so does anyone know what fitting i need to do this and where i can get one? I have searched high and low with no prevail. I DON'T want to use an electric gauge either, so please don't recommend that thanks.'

Looking for answers ASAP!

LS1MCSS helped me by turning down the my stock 86 sender to adapt to the LS head..

Give him a try...Very nice guy!

Matt

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post12845623

Check out speedway motors. They make an adapter that will fit in the passenger side head that will adapt an aftermarket water temp gauge

Anyone have a part number? I'm planning to re-use my autometer water temp gauge....not sure it will fit in the head.

The search button (or stickies) can be your friend. :)

Thread is 12M x 1.5. Adapter is Auto Meter 2277

^^

the autometer adapter along with a gauge is what I am running.

Single wire to the engine and power to the gauge and it will work just fine

Or you could drill and tap the water pump by where the upper hose connects.

Apparently you guys didnt read the part where I said I did NOT want to run an electric gauge. the 2277 adapter is for an electric sending unit.

sometimes, reading the original post is your friend.

more than likely this is what I'lll be doing. the boss that is reserved for the truck water pumps looks like a god spot.

Most Mechanical gagues and sender have a very large sender (thread are like 3/8 npt, which is like 3/4" in dia) not sure if it would be safe to drill and tap the passenger head for it.
If you use one of those wierd adapter, it would most likely stick out pertty far and not give very accurate readings.

You can try the water pump or even a Tee in the radiator hose. But you would be reading either inlet or return water temp and not engine/head water temp.

Sorry.. I had analog vs. digital on the brain :bang:

drill/tap a hole in the upper part of the water pump (there is a flat boss next to the TB where I put mine. That is also a great place to bleed the air out of the cooling system.

I drilled my water pump, on the hot side that exits the engine. I'll bet that it reads a couple degrees cool, but I'm sure its close.
Attachment 619147
you can just see the AutoMeter temp sender and wire under the top rad hose.

You could put it in a heater block plug on either side of the engine. They are brass. Easy to drill and tap to 1/2 NPT

We have no idea what your sending unit is like. I apologize for not being omniscient. You must have missed the part about searching.
A search for "mechanical temp gauge" returned most of the other items referenced here faster than waiting for a reply.

Stupid Question?
 

What is a mechanical water temperature gauge? Would this require the use of a thermocoupler, with a molded wire extention coming out of it, to the dash gauge? Or are we talking about a mechanical water pressure gauge, with 1/8" plastic tubing, to the gauge? Thanks

I bought a cheap drill bit & tap ($19 delivered), then drilled the existing hole to the rear of the passenger head. A new Autogauge 17/8" gauge was won on eBay for $27 delivered. Yes, for safety's sake, I did remove the head to make sure no filings remained, and I did replace the gasket ($24).

you can buy the piece you need from Street and Performance. 3/8" or 1/2" NPT I believe are both offered, long enough to have room for the donkey dick sticking in there that mechanical temp gauges use.

And the head bolts???

lest I forget the head bolts...for anyone unaware, you shouldn't re-use the bolts as they are torque to yield. I had an extra set, which helped me decide to take this route.
Thanks for the reminder :nod:

2282 - Auto Meter Extension Adapter & Fitting will also work.. Goes inline with the upper rad hose.

This guy

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...n-answers.html

says to use

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2275/

Anyone tried this? That adapter is pretty cheap, so I think I might try it if nobody responds here in a few days.

Edit: Here is their whole list of adapters, anyone know exactly which one to use?

http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessorieslist.aspx?pid=9

That's what I did. Also drilled and tapped it for a place to run my steam vent. I liked the idea of not drilling the water pump (in case mine was or went bad) and the two different sizes of rad hose it would accommodate if necessary.

Do you have a link to this? I can't find a damn thing in their online catalog.
1 1/4" correct?

Off the top of my head I'm not sure to be honest.

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com...ale_p/9235.htm

Here ya go try this one you prolly need the m12x1.5-3/8 nptf.

Anticarb, that is perfect. I ordered two. Thanks much for the link!

Mechanical Water Temp
 

The one that you are thinking of purchasing, I dont think that will work for the sending unit of a mechanical water gauge, it appears to be an adaptor that is for a electrical sending unit style gauge, Autometer sells one just like it. The one that was reccommended earlier by another poster that is made by Street & Performance will work for a mechanical and it is a
12mm X 1/8,1/4,3/8 or1/2 depending on the size of your sending unit, the mechanical ones are usually 1/2" and it is deep enough for the sending unit to fit inside, I have included a link to their website you have to go to their online catalog page 88 and it shows them, they are $18.49 Good Luck
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/08%20catalo...talogMAIN.html

lizeec, i really really dislike their online catalog. Thank you for finding that. Just to clarify, this is the one you're talking about, correct?

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/9307/12mmadapter.jpg

Andy do you know what size the coolant probe is.

Not positive, but pretty sure it's 3/8 or 1/2. I will make sure tonight after work and post up in the morning.

I am on a very tight budget and had an old-school mechanical water temp gauge. I decided to use it, but it barely fit the 12 mm hole in the cylinder head where the factory one was. Any adapter would have put it out of the head.

I have a piece of galvanized steel pipe used to couple my two sections of upper hose, so I welded a nut on there, drilled a hole, and now have a "T".

It measures the temp of the water going to the radiator, not the block temp. Also, if by chance the thermostat sticks closed I will not know by the gauge.

Also, IMHO
I can't figure out which is worse, S & P's online catalog or the paper one I just got.

I used the S&P adapter on my swap. On another note, you would think with how high S&P's prices are, their website would be more user friendly, but calling them always works out best for me, and I really love the fact that they still ship C.O.D.

Correct
 

Yes that is the one I used the 12mm x 1/2 and yes their website and catalog aren't the greatest but if you call Mark Campbell ( the owner) usually answers and he is very patient and very knowledgable, they are quite expensive on most of their stuff but they are probably one of the first pioneers on LS swaps and their website has step by step information on many different vehicle swaps with many different engine and transmission combinations. Be careful when you tighten it down as it just seals with a copper crush washer I broke mine off in the head and had to use a EZ out to get the broken part out. I called them and they sent me out another one within 4 days and I was a little more cautious and it works fine. Some people don't like this adaptor as it sits about 1.5-2.0 inches out of the head due to the sending unit size if a mechanical gauge, I have verified water temps from my autometer gauge and also from HP Tuners and it was within 1-3 degrees so I was satisfied, good luck

Here is the kit I've got

http://autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail...gid=3353&sid=1

I'm about 99% sure it's 3/8.

That say the kit comes with 1/4" npt adaptor then you could get the m12x1.5 - 1/4"npt for the $7

Here's what I've got

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_v...0/IMAG0052.jpg

The two adapters on the left will fit on the sender, the one on the right is for the oil pressure. Problem is, none of these are 12mm for the engine block.

The fitting in the middle appears to be 1/4" npt that's the one I would use. You will still need to order the other fitting I was talkin about the m12x1.5-1/4"npt. Have you figured out your oil pressure fittings yet.

I just tapped and threaded the water pump, above where the coolant is hot going out to the heater core. Works like a champ.

Nope, not yet. I'll save that for another thread unless you would like to give me some advice :)

I used my oil pressure sensor that came on my engine (the salvage yard broke it). I then cleaned the rest of the plastic stuff off and drilled and tapped it for 1/8" npt. (which usually come with your gauge) I'll take a pic here in a few and post it up.

S&p
 

I am pretty sure if you get the one that 71ANTICARB is talking about it is for a electrical sending unit and it will not allow that bulbous sending unit from the mechanical gauge fit, the 2 fittings on the left is a 1/2 and 3/8 adaptor either one of those will fit into the S&P adaptor that I am talking about. I would go with the 1/2 as I said it is not the cleanest installation as it is big due to the mechanical sending unit, I eventually spent a little more and got the more expensive electrical water temp gauge as it is a cleaner installation and works with the adaptor that 71ANTICARB is talking about and it is alot easier to hide the sending unit wire versus that ugly mechanical sending unit cable thing.

They are the same fittings S&P is just way more expensive.

You Sure?
 

I don't think so the mechanical sending unit probe is at least 1.5-2.0 inches long it is not going to fit into that adaptor you are looking at, that one will work fine for a electrical gauge sending unit. The mechanical one is much bigger and will not let the probe fit through, I'm done good luck to the op on whatever he chooses.

Summit Racing Part Numbers
Water Temp Adapter ATM-2277 $9.45
Oil Pressure Adapter ATM-2268 $9.45
Hope this helps

These wont work on that guage.
Guess this wont helo

auto meter 2259 is the sending unit that has a smaller probe

Just drill and tap the head and get an adapter that goes from NPT to the thread that your sensor needs

Here is how i did it

Attachment 616721

That would be your best option as it will give you the most probe depth.

Here's the pics of the oil pressure adapter:
Attachment 616717
Attachment 616718
Attachment 616719
Attachment 616720

My sending unit that I pictured is 5/8 - 18. The two adapters I pictured are 3/8 and 1/2 npt. So i'll wait till the adapters I ordered come in and see how it works. Worst comes to worst i'll splice my upper radiator hose with the 5/8 - 18 thread. Although I really would rather read the temp from the head.

*Al from Tool Time voice*

"I don't think so, Tim"

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_v...2/IMAG0063.jpg

Which fitting is that.

3/8 npt that came with the gauge, and the 12mm - 3/8 that I ordered from discount hydraulic hose

Mr. Camino what size fitting is that.

Damn did you order the one from S&P too. I can't imagine that it would be any better. Well guess I will definitely be drilling and tapping now.

Nope didn't order it. But they advertise its longer to accommodate the huge sensor. Although I can't see much benefit if the sensor doesn't fit through the 12mm adapter.

Ive been doing some wiring harness research and I'm going to try electric gauges for now. I'll tap the head when I rebuild the motor in a few years.

Hmmm
 

Hate to say I told you so, but for a mechanical gauge you either have to drill and tap or you have to use the S&P adaptor but like I said the downside is the sending unit pretty much sits inside the adaptor and not in the head, but I have verified actual temps vs. HP Tuner temps and they are within 1-2 degrees. Either way a electrical gauge is a cleaner set-up

Ok I'll give ya that one. I still don't see how the S&P one would be any different. Do you have a pic of it.
Here I just made this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post14906867

Best Method
 

Your method by tapping is probably the best solution, just one tip if you put some heavy grease on the drill bit and the tap you will catch most of the shavings as well, I also like your idea of the compressed air, using both would probably catch almost all of the shavings without having to remove the head and buy new head bolts and a head gasket. I snapped some pictures and will try and post them I dont have a photobucket account yet, it is one of those things I have been meaning to do. I also sent you a pm so I can get your email and send them to you and if you would post them that would be great.

Exactly what I did. I was to cheap to buy adapters...

Here those pics of the S&P adaptor. Also I tried the grease method when tapping my water pump for my steam vent and still lost a fair amount of chip in the pump so I came up with this method seeing how's I don't think the wifey would let let me use her Dyson.

Attachment 616667
Attachment 616668

I guess if the polish is your thing that help account for some of the price difference.

Adaptor
 

The more I look at that S&P adaptor the uglier it looks, I like your tapping method, but in the end I went with a Autometer electrical gauges and used the Autometer shorty sending unit and their adaptor. Thank you for posting the pics

Anticarb, any chance on getting an updated link to those pictures? I'm going to start working on this this week. Thanks.

Edit: Never mind I saw your write up thread. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post14906867

Wow. Old thread. I still think you are better off putting it in the block heater plug. Drills to1/2 NPT easy chessey. You can get replacement plugs from a GM dealer for $12. Sure beats screwing up a head. I run a Datsun sender in that location and it works fine.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.p...ictureid=55426

Another option I read about recently is popping out one of the freeze plugs from the end of the head and putting a fitting there. This place sells screw in aluminum freeze plugs. Should be a simple matter to adapt a 1/2 NPT fitting to them

http://www.moranmotorsports.com/prod...products_id=48

Here's a better solution
 

There is a guy on ebay listing these already.

Here's a link.
http://bit.ly/1qu6mVr

You guys are rock stars. Autometer 2277 fits in the head and accepts old school mechanical setups. Keeps it far enough in the head to be accurate. Thanks...

9 Years later...............