C4 corvette - 5.3 "LSX" engine swap project [PICS]
10-17-2010, 12:11 PM
#62
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Honestly didn't go through the effort of making the paint job perfect because it's a daily driver and I know if I cleaned it super nice I would have to keep it clean, and i'm not really one for detailing
And yes the mess of wires is the original wiring harness, it penetrates the firewall in 2 spots; passenger side and driver side. I agree it is a mess of wires. I decided to keep all the wires in place until I start to wire in the new harness since I'm not sure which wires I will be keeping and which I don't need.
Next on the list is to possibly modify a 1985 chevy blazer windshield wiper motor to replace the stock wiper motor. The problem is that with the engine installed, the wiper motor can not be installed because there isn't enough room. Also, the engine will not fit if the wiper motor is already installed either. So I basically either need to make this chevy blazer motor fit (hopefully) or buy stock in Rain-x, because I'll be using alot of it with no wipers!
And yes the mess of wires is the original wiring harness, it penetrates the firewall in 2 spots; passenger side and driver side. I agree it is a mess of wires. I decided to keep all the wires in place until I start to wire in the new harness since I'm not sure which wires I will be keeping and which I don't need.
Next on the list is to possibly modify a 1985 chevy blazer windshield wiper motor to replace the stock wiper motor. The problem is that with the engine installed, the wiper motor can not be installed because there isn't enough room. Also, the engine will not fit if the wiper motor is already installed either. So I basically either need to make this chevy blazer motor fit (hopefully) or buy stock in Rain-x, because I'll be using alot of it with no wipers!
11-07-2010, 08:22 PM
#64
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Made alot of progress today! I managed to get the transmission mounted to the engine block. 6 bolts are supposed to attach it, but it seems that the general consensus is that only 5 bolts will suffice. This is because the upper bolt on the passenger side is not drilled in the block, and even if it was there seems to be no possible way to even get to it.
I also managed to get the torque converter mounted to the flywheel. In my previous posts, you can see where I elongated 3 holes on the flywheel to ensure that the bolts will line up with the torque converter. THANKFULLY i elongated them correctly and I didn't have to mess with them some more. It would have been rather difficult to do it under the car!
Bolt in place - upper driver side
2 bolts in place - lower driver side
2 bolts in place - lower passenger side
flywheel hole elongated to ensure that the bolt that attaches the flywheel to the torque converter lines up
Off from work tomorrow so that means it's time to play with the windshield wiper motor some more...
I also managed to get the torque converter mounted to the flywheel. In my previous posts, you can see where I elongated 3 holes on the flywheel to ensure that the bolts will line up with the torque converter. THANKFULLY i elongated them correctly and I didn't have to mess with them some more. It would have been rather difficult to do it under the car!
Bolt in place - upper driver side
2 bolts in place - lower driver side
2 bolts in place - lower passenger side
flywheel hole elongated to ensure that the bolt that attaches the flywheel to the torque converter lines up
Off from work tomorrow so that means it's time to play with the windshield wiper motor some more...
11-07-2010, 11:28 PM
#66
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Maybe. The hood would have had to come off for clearance. It's not that hard to take off I just didn't really feel like messing with it. Also getting the transmission unbolted from the C-beam is annoying and I'd rather not do that again. Mounting the engine to the trans in the car really wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, probably about 3-4 hours by myself, could have been worse!
11-07-2010, 11:45 PM
#67
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The hood is off mine so im probably going to do it all at once just to save me some trouble lol. Just trying to get an idea of my options. Looks good keep it up!
11-08-2010, 11:12 AM
#68
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Yeah if the hood is off your best bet is to take the engine and trans out all at once. Do you have a build thread floating around LS1 tech somewhere? Or some pictures you can post up of your project? Glad to see another C4 getting some attention!!!
11-08-2010, 07:01 PM
#69
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Made some more progress today. I now will have working windshield wipers!!! See below:thumbsup:
Stock windshield wiper motor on the left which will NOT clear the cylinder heads. New 1985 chevy blazer wiper motor on the right. It's a bit smaller but still doesn't fit. I will need to modify the mounting brackets and swivel the wiper motor away from the cylinder heads (counter-clockwise) so that the wiper motor will clear it.
This is the insides of a wiper motor, in case anyone was curious :laughing:
Weapons of choice - Cutoff wheel, grinder, steel carbide dremel
Cutting what will be my mounting bracket away from the wiper motor.
Using a steel carbide bit and a cut-off wheel. Almost there...
I now have a separate mounting bracket and wiper motor.
Ground the motor smooth
Rough mounting bracket
Ground the mounting bracket smooth and widened it a bit.
Now that the two pieces are no longer attached, I can rotate the mounting bracket on the wiper motor until the motor clears the cylinder head.
This is where the wiper motor mounts. You can see the cylinder head that is in the way. I will also relocate the relay box on the right to allow for more room.
Tack-welded some washers on the mounting holes and cut the bracket into 2 pieces.
Mounting bracket cut into two pieces and mounted temporarily.
Tack-welded half of the mounting bracket back onto the motor. It's now positioned so the motor will not interfere with the cylinder head.
After running back and forth to the car a bunch of times, the mounting bracket is just about where it needs to be. A few more measurements and welds and it will be done.
Another test fit. Notice how the wiper motor hangs to the right now, instead of straight down like it used to.
I shortened the bottom right bolt and threaded it in backwards, from inside cowl. This way I can easily attach a nut to the side that's in the engine bay. I couldn't easily fit the bolt in from the engine bay side so this was the best way to do it
All welded in it's final position. Not too pretty but it is strong!
Stock windshield wiper motor on the left which will NOT clear the cylinder heads. New 1985 chevy blazer wiper motor on the right. It's a bit smaller but still doesn't fit. I will need to modify the mounting brackets and swivel the wiper motor away from the cylinder heads (counter-clockwise) so that the wiper motor will clear it.
This is the insides of a wiper motor, in case anyone was curious :laughing:
Weapons of choice - Cutoff wheel, grinder, steel carbide dremel
Cutting what will be my mounting bracket away from the wiper motor.
Using a steel carbide bit and a cut-off wheel. Almost there...
I now have a separate mounting bracket and wiper motor.
Ground the motor smooth
Rough mounting bracket
Ground the mounting bracket smooth and widened it a bit.
Now that the two pieces are no longer attached, I can rotate the mounting bracket on the wiper motor until the motor clears the cylinder head.
This is where the wiper motor mounts. You can see the cylinder head that is in the way. I will also relocate the relay box on the right to allow for more room.
Tack-welded some washers on the mounting holes and cut the bracket into 2 pieces.
Mounting bracket cut into two pieces and mounted temporarily.
Tack-welded half of the mounting bracket back onto the motor. It's now positioned so the motor will not interfere with the cylinder head.
After running back and forth to the car a bunch of times, the mounting bracket is just about where it needs to be. A few more measurements and welds and it will be done.
Another test fit. Notice how the wiper motor hangs to the right now, instead of straight down like it used to.
I shortened the bottom right bolt and threaded it in backwards, from inside cowl. This way I can easily attach a nut to the side that's in the engine bay. I couldn't easily fit the bolt in from the engine bay side so this was the best way to do it
All welded in it's final position. Not too pretty but it is strong!
11-16-2010, 09:50 AM
#71
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Just ordered everything I need for the fuel system to work (hopefully). So I should have fuel to the engine this weekend. Now I just need to locate some banjo bolts for the steam lines
11-23-2010, 08:45 AM
#74
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New MSD mini high torque starter installed
Just noticed my passenger side floor pan is bent upwards. This is what happens when you only have about 3 inches of ground clearance!
Stock fuel filter and fuel lines that will need to be re-routed in order to supply fuel to the new engine
Fuel lines cut and old fuel filter removed along with all the fuel lines in the engine bay. The new system will only require 1 fuel line to be run to the engine. The return will be at the new fuel filter/regulator.
New fuel filter/regulator installed. I used 1 steel braided -6N hose to run the fuel to the engine with a quick disconnect on the filter. This filter/regulator has the inlet and return built into the same side which makes re-routing the return fuel to the tank very easy.
Steel braided fuel line will be routed to the fuel rails nicer than this. I will route it better once I start the engine wiring making sure to keep them away from the headers to prevent the vapor lock I was getting with my old fuel lines.
Plumbing on the fuel rails is complete. I put a fuel pressure gauge in line as well.
The header makes contact with this bolt that attaches a cross brace from the frame extension rail to the hood latch area near the passenger side window. Bolt will be removed and I will tack weld the plate to the frame in one spot. Should be strong enough.
Old thermostat on the left, new on the right. Installed.
Part of the firewall was touching this head bolt, it was also in the way of the driver side header.
So I cut a chunk out of the firewall to make room. I really should have done this before I put the engine in considering I knew it had to be done, oops!
Fiberglass time!
I layered two sheets of fiberglass over the hole. I'll clean it up and make it look nice when the resin cures.
Just noticed my passenger side floor pan is bent upwards. This is what happens when you only have about 3 inches of ground clearance!
Stock fuel filter and fuel lines that will need to be re-routed in order to supply fuel to the new engine
Fuel lines cut and old fuel filter removed along with all the fuel lines in the engine bay. The new system will only require 1 fuel line to be run to the engine. The return will be at the new fuel filter/regulator.
New fuel filter/regulator installed. I used 1 steel braided -6N hose to run the fuel to the engine with a quick disconnect on the filter. This filter/regulator has the inlet and return built into the same side which makes re-routing the return fuel to the tank very easy.
Steel braided fuel line will be routed to the fuel rails nicer than this. I will route it better once I start the engine wiring making sure to keep them away from the headers to prevent the vapor lock I was getting with my old fuel lines.
Plumbing on the fuel rails is complete. I put a fuel pressure gauge in line as well.
The header makes contact with this bolt that attaches a cross brace from the frame extension rail to the hood latch area near the passenger side window. Bolt will be removed and I will tack weld the plate to the frame in one spot. Should be strong enough.
Old thermostat on the left, new on the right. Installed.
Part of the firewall was touching this head bolt, it was also in the way of the driver side header.
So I cut a chunk out of the firewall to make room. I really should have done this before I put the engine in considering I knew it had to be done, oops!
Fiberglass time!
I layered two sheets of fiberglass over the hole. I'll clean it up and make it look nice when the resin cures.
03-09-2011, 07:47 AM
#77
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It's starting to warm up and i'm making progress again!
I installed the alternator, power steering reservoir and hoses. The power steering pressure hose is from a C5 Corvette. The one rubber return line is just a standard piece of power steering hose that I cut to fit.
I installed the alternator, power steering reservoir and hoses. The power steering pressure hose is from a C5 Corvette. The one rubber return line is just a standard piece of power steering hose that I cut to fit.
Last edited by redmen031; 03-09-2011 at 08:33 AM.
03-09-2011, 07:48 AM
#78
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This past Sunday, we managed to identify just about every connector on the harness. We also started opening up the harness to make it exactly how we want it, so that it should fit in the vette nicely and look stock. The plan is to extend the ECM and locate it in the driver side headlight bucket where the relays are. The harness will have to be extended. There's a great deal of wires to extend so I will be getting to that this weekend. Then a test fit and maybe plugging some stuff in and see what happens!
2002 Camaro Automatic - wiring harness
2002 Camaro Automatic - wiring harness
