LS1 and 200-4r to L92 / T56 in 71 Chevelle convertible...now Gen V LT1 6L80e swapping
03-24-2011, 07:34 AM
#141
Looks like I would need around 9 quarts if it had been completely empty so I'm guessing the 4 or so I got out sounds right.
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Tech...d_capacity.asp
I'm definitely going to pull the plugs and prime it thoroughly. Already filled the filter with oil and I am 1000000% sure the O-ring is good. Going to head out in an hour or so and get the trans pan back on, and once I change a few spark plugs and (temporarily) hook up a couple gauges I think I'll get the car started today. If I do then I'm going to half-*** all the gauges in place and try to get this thing moving.
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Tech...d_capacity.asp
I'm definitely going to pull the plugs and prime it thoroughly. Already filled the filter with oil and I am 1000000% sure the O-ring is good. Going to head out in an hour or so and get the trans pan back on, and once I change a few spark plugs and (temporarily) hook up a couple gauges I think I'll get the car started today. If I do then I'm going to half-*** all the gauges in place and try to get this thing moving.
03-24-2011, 12:14 PM
#142
I got my lq4 Chevelle started yesterday it took prolly atleast 20min of cranking to get primed. I took several breaks to keep from burning up the starter. I also took the driver valvecover off so I could see that oil was up to the rockers.
03-25-2011, 11:50 AM
#144
Didn't quite get it fired up. It got cold as **** and I was bogged down with a dickload of small things that added up. Going to try and get it all straightened up on Sunday and try to buy a tach monday so I can get on the phone with bowtie overdrives and set up my tv cable.
I can't help but feel like this car would be more fun with a 6 speed so I'm probably going to do that in a few months once convertible weather has removed itself from middle TN. Anybody know offhand what switching from a 200-4r to a t56 would require harness-wise? I'm thinking getting a viper t56 would be the way to go, then moving the console to fit around it.
I can't help but feel like this car would be more fun with a 6 speed so I'm probably going to do that in a few months once convertible weather has removed itself from middle TN. Anybody know offhand what switching from a 200-4r to a t56 would require harness-wise? I'm thinking getting a viper t56 would be the way to go, then moving the console to fit around it.
03-27-2011, 02:34 AM
#146
My harness already has vss so I think I'm good there. The weather here absolutely blows *** so I haven't done **** in the last few days but I'm going to dick around tomorrow and do some minor things.
A few months back I bought a legit HID projector setup (putting "HID" bulbs into stock housings is terrible and blinding to everyone else) to retrofit into some 7" headlight housings but I have yet to find a suitably spacious front lens to accommodate the added length of the piece. I was close to giving up when I cam across a set of these: http://starrhid.com/index.php?page=s...emart&Itemid=1
on ebay. They were listed as being without ballasts, but when I got them they were missing ballasts and the bulbs. I'm hoping I can use the bulbs and ballasts I already have to make these work because they look pretty cool. It's hard to find a decent hid setup in the 7" round size.
I'm also thinking about selling the power window setup I bought out of a vert cutlass and picking up a spal deluxe universal kit instead. Not really feeling like messing with regulators and all that crap.
If you are using the kwik bracket for truck accessories the serpentine belt you need is Dayco 5061130 or equivalent. They say use a 114 but at least in my case 113 fits perfectly. I think it's the same length as the belt used on some VWs ans mustangs with magnachargers.
A few months back I bought a legit HID projector setup (putting "HID" bulbs into stock housings is terrible and blinding to everyone else) to retrofit into some 7" headlight housings but I have yet to find a suitably spacious front lens to accommodate the added length of the piece. I was close to giving up when I cam across a set of these: http://starrhid.com/index.php?page=s...emart&Itemid=1
on ebay. They were listed as being without ballasts, but when I got them they were missing ballasts and the bulbs. I'm hoping I can use the bulbs and ballasts I already have to make these work because they look pretty cool. It's hard to find a decent hid setup in the 7" round size.
I'm also thinking about selling the power window setup I bought out of a vert cutlass and picking up a spal deluxe universal kit instead. Not really feeling like messing with regulators and all that crap.
If you are using the kwik bracket for truck accessories the serpentine belt you need is Dayco 5061130 or equivalent. They say use a 114 but at least in my case 113 fits perfectly. I think it's the same length as the belt used on some VWs ans mustangs with magnachargers.
03-28-2011, 07:12 AM
#148
Yeah, they do, but that is what I was looking for as recessing my other projectors was going to mean having to move the battery. I'm willing to trade the bulging for the light quality vs a standard bulb.
These also fit under the ring that holds the old lights in place and will require only minimal cutting of the old housings. Fortunately it looks like the extra hids and ballasts I already had will work with this setup, so the electrical aspects of this should be a simple battery connection and then plug-n-play, which is a welcome change.
These also fit under the ring that holds the old lights in place and will require only minimal cutting of the old housings. Fortunately it looks like the extra hids and ballasts I already had will work with this setup, so the electrical aspects of this should be a simple battery connection and then plug-n-play, which is a welcome change.
04-23-2011, 02:32 PM
#150
Nice of you to ask.
Today I got everything more or less in a final bolted down and back together state (interior electrical things aside). Started it up and heard a rattle/ knock and immediately turned it off and pulled the valve covers and plug wires, then turned it over a bit with the starter to see if I could hear it. After the last motor blew I didn't want to take any chances. I had primed the oil pump last week but I wanted to verify oil was coming out up top, and once I saw that it was I closed it back up and started it again. It spun up pretty smoothly but idled really high (which might be masking the knock if it's still there, or maybe it was just a temporary initial low-oil piston slap type noise that is now gone). Either way it seems to run for a second and then die out, though I'm hoping this can be addressed with some tuning.
I put the plastic shizz on there just to see how much cutting I might have to do. Should work as-is.
Mounted some of the gauges, just well enough to get them wired for now though. This a pillar pod was (of course) for a hard top, but a little time with the torch and I was able to wrap the excess around the back so it would anchor itself in place which actually worked out really well. I'll get rid of the silver screws later.
The under dash area is another story. The cd player is going to go in the dash itself I guess, and I'm in the process of making a panel out of fiberglass to house the tach, water temp, trans pressure and voltmeter as well as the b&m lock up control. Should be done tomorrow, but then I've said that before. We'll see. At this point I'm just glad it starts and (so far at least) doesn't sound like it's going to explode. I've also picked up some random trim pieces but other than what is mentioned here nothing major has happened. Just the usual odds and ends that come up.
Today I got everything more or less in a final bolted down and back together state (interior electrical things aside). Started it up and heard a rattle/ knock and immediately turned it off and pulled the valve covers and plug wires, then turned it over a bit with the starter to see if I could hear it. After the last motor blew I didn't want to take any chances. I had primed the oil pump last week but I wanted to verify oil was coming out up top, and once I saw that it was I closed it back up and started it again. It spun up pretty smoothly but idled really high (which might be masking the knock if it's still there, or maybe it was just a temporary initial low-oil piston slap type noise that is now gone). Either way it seems to run for a second and then die out, though I'm hoping this can be addressed with some tuning.
I put the plastic shizz on there just to see how much cutting I might have to do. Should work as-is.
Mounted some of the gauges, just well enough to get them wired for now though. This a pillar pod was (of course) for a hard top, but a little time with the torch and I was able to wrap the excess around the back so it would anchor itself in place which actually worked out really well. I'll get rid of the silver screws later.
The under dash area is another story. The cd player is going to go in the dash itself I guess, and I'm in the process of making a panel out of fiberglass to house the tach, water temp, trans pressure and voltmeter as well as the b&m lock up control. Should be done tomorrow, but then I've said that before. We'll see. At this point I'm just glad it starts and (so far at least) doesn't sound like it's going to explode. I've also picked up some random trim pieces but other than what is mentioned here nothing major has happened. Just the usual odds and ends that come up.
Last edited by chuckd71; 04-27-2011 at 12:06 AM.
04-25-2011, 01:41 AM
#151
Having never worked with fiberglass or bondo before I wasn't expecting much to come of this, but for a first try I think it turned out okay and will get me through the summer. Can't have a version 2 without a version 1 anyway. I still have to drop in a couple more gauges but this is more or less the result of a few hours here and there. While pretty ugly, this should allow me to simplify wiring a great deal by getting everything connected on the back then using a quick connect of some sort to hook into the dash wiring/ ground rather than contorting myself in the car and soldering everything one by one.
The car also idles on its own now without me having to give it gas, maybe the computer just needed a few tries to relearn some things, I don't know. My main problem now is that it keeps throwing the serpentine belt off the a/c compressor. It looks like my alternator sticks out farther than anything else and I think the p/s pulley needs to be pressed on more, but I'm thinking if I could find an idler pulley with deeper grooves it would fix it.
If I can get out there tomorrow and fix the belt issue I'm going to try and get the trans dialed in.
The car also idles on its own now without me having to give it gas, maybe the computer just needed a few tries to relearn some things, I don't know. My main problem now is that it keeps throwing the serpentine belt off the a/c compressor. It looks like my alternator sticks out farther than anything else and I think the p/s pulley needs to be pressed on more, but I'm thinking if I could find an idler pulley with deeper grooves it would fix it.
If I can get out there tomorrow and fix the belt issue I'm going to try and get the trans dialed in.
Last edited by chuckd71; 04-25-2011 at 10:26 PM.
04-25-2011, 01:18 PM
#152
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Good to hear that you got it running! Yeah wiring is always great fun especially when you are trying to solder up-under the dash. Keep up the progress, and get us some vids when you get it buttoned up and on the street. 
04-27-2011, 12:05 AM
#154
I meant to call you back but my hours are hard-core f$@d up and calling at 2am seems rude. I'm going to head out there on Thurs for a bit to work on some wiring and put some braided hose on that trans pressure gauge (that **** smells like *** and I'm not trusting that pressure to plastic tubes) but I'm hoping it will be knocked out by this weekend. I'll give you a shout once it is startable and we can go from there. As long as it's ready by Steeplechase I'll be happy.
When did you get a 67 RS?
When did you get a 67 RS?
04-27-2011, 01:57 AM
#155
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I meant to call you back but my hours are hard-core f$@d up and calling at 2am seems rude. I'm going to head out there on Thurs for a bit to work on some wiring and put some braided hose on that trans pressure gauge (that **** smells like *** and I'm not trusting that pressure to plastic tubes) but I'm hoping it will be knocked out by this weekend. I'll give you a shout once it is startable and we can go from there. As long as it's ready by Steeplechase I'll be happy.
When did you get a 67 RS?
When did you get a 67 RS?
the 67 is the one under the cover in the garage lol
04-29-2011, 10:51 AM
#159
Autozone orielly's advance all have it. You will prolly just have to go up there seeing how most of the counter guys aren't smart enough to find it. It will be with the spray paint.
04-29-2011, 12:51 PM
#160
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Got it at Advanced. Yeh, even I told him what it was he still didnt see it. Thanks for the Quick response. BTW, I picked up some Rustoleum and used it in a floor Brace and that stuff is SOLID. Just beware it is effected by UV rays and may not hold up in the elements.