Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Hardline is difficult to work with and requires several extra tools. From a cost perspective the full braided line is slightly cheaper depending on brand

pushrod36

I ordered a slew of Russell -6an stuff for my fuel system. There is a great reference here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...er-source.html Hat tip to Pocket for the great work

jonathan_ed3

iTrader: (4)

Most of the braided stuff is only rated at 5-7 years if you read the fine print that comes with the instructions/info.

Personally, I ran hard-line (not aluminum, not recommended for this much pressure) all the way back to front. Obviously you're going to need some rubber hose at each end, but not more than a few inches.

I would rather replace just the ends every few years rather than the entire length of the car.

battsup

For those that used the Dorman 800-072(fuel line repair nylon line), how did you connect to the external walbro fuel pump?

This is the fuel line i'm talking about

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

russell 640940 or 800-082.5 part in your picture, not sure which side of the fuel pump you are talking about.

I have thought about using that stuff too, but not sure how safe it is, and would still want to run something else in the engine bay unless there was a good protectant that I could sleeve it with around the headers.

battsup

But the fuel pump has female ports so you would need a male connector. The 800-082.5 are a set of 5 3/8 connectors to use for fuel line from the vette FPR to the rail and from pump to FPR and also tank to pump.

I think you might need something like this if you want to use the 800-082



This looks like dorman 128-3012, can anyone confirm?

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

I had seen a male double ended piece when I was at napa looking at the doorman repair pieces. It was a long piece like 12" or so. That is what I would use if I used those lines.

battsup

That's 800-155 its for the outlet side of the FPR. The fuel pump has threaded 10mm female inlet/outlet.

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

Ah, I see what you are saying. I had seen the picture of the corvette regulator and did not see you were asking about the walbro pump.

Klimaxx

iTrader: (1)

I ran reinforced lined hose initally, now i am changing it all over to -6 using earl's push lok hose/ends... its NHRA certified, so no issues at the track!



I have run at the track with my current line though, no issues

Jim_PA

iTrader: (9)

My filters and pump are hard-lined together into one unit about 24" long. From my tank to bottom of cab floor is hard line, but then I have to run flex from the cab floor to the frame mounted filter. Once I get up to the firewall, I have to use flex lines again.

I guess if I relocated my gas tank to the frame, rather than in-cab, I could eliminate a lot of soft lines, but I'm not feeling all that inspired at the moment to relocate my fuel tank.

I have seen how quickly rubber line can deteriorate, so I'm hoping this newer teflon lined stuff is a bit more durable.

daschra79

iTrader: (2)

I'm currently finishing up my fuel system. I used Fragola Push Loc 8000 Series hose. It is extremely easy to work with! And the price isn't too bad either.

joejbal

It is probably a rare case,

But I had an animal chew through my Russel Proclassic hose in two different locations.

This stuff must be tasty.

myz06

iTrader: (14)

I'm using a cell and an external Walbro. Running low pressure rubber hose from cell to pump and then high pressure from pump to CFR (return back to cell). Then the long probably 12" piece with both male ends hooked up to the CFR and then running the Dorman fuel line (just like factory) from my CFR up to my intake. Bought the Dorman 3/8 and 5/16 quick connects to go onto the CFR and to my intake. Got everything from Rockauto. To put the quick connects on the end of the fuel lines, boil the water in line to get hot enough. As weird as it sounds as boiling water is boiling water, I've had better success with a pot on the grill then my oven. I also have a little clothes steamer given to me that works even better at getting it hot enough to slide the quick connect on. I had all this mounted on the passenger side but recently moved as I knew I probably shouldn't havie it on the same side as my battery cables. It's better on driver anyway as the fuel line is away from the headers.

jeepnut24

What degree are people flaring their hardline? Mine is a Jeep and I need the durability of hardline. Just not sure 100% sure on the flaring options. I know the AN stuff is 37*, but a 37* double flare tool is $$$$$.

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

Id recommend the plastic stuff, otherwise steel line like mentioned.
I have nice 37 degree bending and flaring tools if needed Bill.

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

I am pretty sure you don't need a double flare for fuel lines... the pressure is not that high, compared with brake lines, which run comparatively much higher pressure. I used single flares on my steel fuel lines and I have no leaks.

jeepnut24

37* or 45* flares? I plan to run AN fittings and stainless flex line on the ends and will need 37* fittings or adapters. This is my next project for my swap.

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

I actually used 45 degree flares and brass SAE fittings. They were a lot cheaper than AN stuff (between $1.20 and $3 per fitting) and since my flaring tool is 45 degree, I can use it make brake lines as well.

I got most of the brass fittings from Fastenal and used steel brake line for the hard lines. I used high pressure rubber fuel lines and smooth hose clamps for the flexible lines. To transition from hard to flexible line, I flared the hard line and used a tube nut screwed into a brass hose barb adapter. I wound up making it more complicated than I had to, and I think I am going to go back and simplify it one of these days.

I also made a controversial decision to use a compression fitting on my fuel system... sort of. It's actually a Swagelok fitting, which is like a compression fitting on steroids. This one worked really well, and I ordered a couple for my trans cooler hard lines. They are super easy to install because you don't have to worry about under or over-tightening them. Disassembly and reassembly is also very very easy.

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

I ran hard line down the frame rail/subframe connectors in my '71. Used AN fittings with braided line up to the 'vette FPR (also went with a Walbro 255 external pump). It was rather expensive ($450 or so), so I plan to run more hard line and off-the-shelf fittings in the GTO, with a TanksInc in-tank pump assembly. Here's a link to some pics and schematic of my system.

I like FastKat's idea, so I may be picking your brain when I get around to running the line.