79 trans am ls1/th400 w/ gearvendors
#21
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so i'm waiting on food while at work, so I figured I would post my revised ideas and goals for the swap.
I'm going to break this down into phases, because i have a lot to do, and being 22 and i need to pace myself. so here is my revised schedule/goal list
Phase 1 - Get the engine in, fuel system in, cooling and electrical systems all working correctly.
Phase 3. Body work and Paint
Phase 4. Interior rework (not happy with how I did it initially)
I'm going to break this down into phases, because i have a lot to do, and being 22 and i need to pace myself. so here is my revised schedule/goal list
Phase 1 - Get the engine in, fuel system in, cooling and electrical systems all working correctly.
1.a - Mount engine into car, check for clearances with firewall and make sure nothing is interfering.
1.b - Purchase transmission, get it rebuilt and setup for the ls swap, than mount engine and trans as an assy and modify trans crossmember to retain stock apperance/drive shaft angles/
1.c - Measure for driveshaft and get that made, in the meantime, get my speedo cables/shift cables calibrated and operational.
1.d - Electrical harness, mount the pcm and rewire the harness to fit my needs. after harness looks as good as I can get it, and maintains all of the neccessary components, send the pcm out to get calibrated to delete vats, egr, a/c, etc etc.
1.d.1 - mount sheetmetal so i can route my harness the way I want it to be, hidden.
1.e - Mount radiator, run heater hoses and make sure everything is insulated so it will not rub through.
1.f - fuel system, run new stainless lines, ***** myself out to get the rick's stainless tank
Phase 2. Brakes and SuspensionPhase 3. Body work and Paint
Phase 4. Interior rework (not happy with how I did it initially)
#22
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i'm runnin a th400 on mine, so its just a matter of finding the right gear for my speedo.
but if your runnin a t56 or a 4l60e, you can use a cable x or dakota digital box from what i've read.
but if your runnin a t56 or a 4l60e, you can use a cable x or dakota digital box from what i've read.
#24
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so you just have a mechanical gauge runnin to the tranny just like the older cars?
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i'm runnin the stock speedometer right now, so its just cable driven.
i have my notes at home that list what pins you can remove for the trans. but mines a 98 harness. i'll be starting it soon hopefully. just need this humidity to drop so i can paint my brackets.
i have my notes at home that list what pins you can remove for the trans. but mines a 98 harness. i'll be starting it soon hopefully. just need this humidity to drop so i can paint my brackets.
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first test fit... had some motor mount problems so i cant bolt it in, but with where the bolt holes on the carshop plates sit, seems like i'll have plenty of room for the headers, accessories, etc. had to retap the threads to fit the bolts they supplied, but everything went well in regards to the plates.
first test fit... had some motor mount problems so i cant bolt it in, but with where the bolt holes on the carshop plates sit, seems like i'll have plenty of room for the headers, accessories, etc. had to retap the threads to fit the bolts they supplied, but everything went well in regards to the plates.
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if you are going to use the edelbrock headers take off the passenger side lower control arm brace.... the little 8 in piece of roundbar looking part that interferes with the headers....
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all trans ams had it starting in 79 its on the lower control arm, passenger side, back mount, runs from the frame to the mount part....one on each side they make triangles....
as far as your solid mounts, everything comes into place, and i feel like im really preaching these, with the carshop mounts, check out the 73rs build a few pages back, theres a great picture of the two plates side by side, and you can see the difference. after messing with 200 dollars worth of mounts for a "bolt in" application a set of 50 dollar plates set it in no problems....
as far as your solid mounts, everything comes into place, and i feel like im really preaching these, with the carshop mounts, check out the 73rs build a few pages back, theres a great picture of the two plates side by side, and you can see the difference. after messing with 200 dollars worth of mounts for a "bolt in" application a set of 50 dollar plates set it in no problems....
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mine are set back, with ample clearance on everything... you have all the mounts i have sitting in my garage.... haha best thing is to try and return them all, then get the carshop plates, factory sbc engine bucket mounts, and then the factory frame clamshells, everything lines up!
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yeah i hae the regular carshop plates, not the setbacks.
i have the clamshell mounts, but not the engine cups.
i dont think the speed shop will let me return these solid mounts, so i'll be screwed out of 80 bucks.
i have the clamshell mounts, but not the engine cups.
i dont think the speed shop will let me return these solid mounts, so i'll be screwed out of 80 bucks.
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you can use those too, just get your plates swapped out or make new bolt holes a little lower than the original mounting spots on the plates.... i want to say they are about 5/16s lower ?
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the plates are 5/32" thick, so i'm thinking if i slot the holes on the engine mounts about that much, itll give me the adjustability i need to drop the engine in. (i was extremely tired yesterday and couldnt think for my life)
tried shimming those stupid mounts up, but no luck. the regular carshop plates dont account for their thickness, from what I can tell. So i'm going to mill the holes out to elongate them. and as long as they're even side to side, the engine should, SHOULD self level itself as long as nothing binds. my only problem is that my floor isnt level, or even close. so trying to get my engine level in the frame is going to be fun.
tried shimming those stupid mounts up, but no luck. the regular carshop plates dont account for their thickness, from what I can tell. So i'm going to mill the holes out to elongate them. and as long as they're even side to side, the engine should, SHOULD self level itself as long as nothing binds. my only problem is that my floor isnt level, or even close. so trying to get my engine level in the frame is going to be fun.
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so since the carshop plates that i bought didnt account for the width of the ****** plates, and i dont have money for new mounts right now (in between checks) i decided to mod my subframe a bit. got allt he mounts to line up, idk what kind of angle i have as the engine is on stands right now and my floor all jacked up.
![](http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b276/nunan0219/IMG_20101001_203856.jpg)
so here she is. with ls1 in its spot. probably going to end up ordering the carshop set back plates, selling mine and selling my solid mounts and ordering the cups and mounts from classic industries. got the wiring sorted out. need to mock up my fans, alternator and water pump, so i can figure out my wiring thats needed for them. than just a bunch of cutting and soldering to get everything going.
![](http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b276/nunan0219/IMG_20101001_203856.jpg)
so here she is. with ls1 in its spot. probably going to end up ordering the carshop set back plates, selling mine and selling my solid mounts and ordering the cups and mounts from classic industries. got the wiring sorted out. need to mock up my fans, alternator and water pump, so i can figure out my wiring thats needed for them. than just a bunch of cutting and soldering to get everything going.
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i finally got the right clamshells cups!!! just have to grind the back down, and see if they work. i probabloy have to get the set back plates, but atleast now i can use factory mounts instead of solid mounts. (which will be for sale)