I want a build thread too....'63 Chevy II Wagon.
10-06-2010, 08:43 AM
#21
A little bit more progress last night...
Right now I'm having a problem with the engine mounts lining up with the frame mounts which I think it due to a poor quality frame mount. It will be an easy fix, it's no fault of the CBR engine plates or the Energy Suspension engine mounts.
I put the car up on jackstands and then hooked up the engine hoist, I also put a jack under the tailshaft. This way the engine could be positioned where I want it to check all the clearances. Everything fits great, just need to sort out the frame mounts.
Don't worry, the full engine weight isn't sitting on the rack...it's barely touching just so the engine can be positioned and stay in place.
Right now I'm having a problem with the engine mounts lining up with the frame mounts which I think it due to a poor quality frame mount. It will be an easy fix, it's no fault of the CBR engine plates or the Energy Suspension engine mounts.
I put the car up on jackstands and then hooked up the engine hoist, I also put a jack under the tailshaft. This way the engine could be positioned where I want it to check all the clearances. Everything fits great, just need to sort out the frame mounts.
Don't worry, the full engine weight isn't sitting on the rack...it's barely touching just so the engine can be positioned and stay in place.
10-11-2010, 12:02 PM
#23
Last week I received the Cable-X for the speedo. It converts the VSS signal to run a driver motor for the mecanical speedometer. I had thought of replacing the tailshaft of the trans with one of the kits that allow a cable to be hooked up, but the problem is if the tire size or gears are changed, the speedo gears have to be swapped out. With this Cable-X, you just flip the dip switches for the new ratio and you're all set. Plus, it costs half as much as the tailshaft kit. The nice thing is the PCM has a VSS signal wire which normally runs into the cabin that can be hooked to this box. Then all it takes is a ground and 12v, mount the box up under the dash and hook the mechanical line from the box to the speedometer. I've read about people using their gps to check accuracy and they are right on. Here's a link to it...
And then last night I got back from a trip to Illinois to pick up seats. These are from a 42k mile 4-door that was hit in the back. The guy I bought them from didnt clean them at all, and they hardly need it, but I'm going to go over the vinyl with soap and water and then wipe them with a mild conditioner.
The front seat frame is the same for a 4-door and a wagon but the rear wagon seat is different (folding). So I'm going to have the rear covers switched over to my rear seat frames. I choose nice stock original material over reproduction and I don't think I'd ever find a nicer set. These will be in storage until the car is back from being painted.
The underside of the seats are pretty amazing, the springs and tracks are mostly like new bare steel...same goes for the padding material.
And then last night I got back from a trip to Illinois to pick up seats. These are from a 42k mile 4-door that was hit in the back. The guy I bought them from didnt clean them at all, and they hardly need it, but I'm going to go over the vinyl with soap and water and then wipe them with a mild conditioner.
The front seat frame is the same for a 4-door and a wagon but the rear wagon seat is different (folding). So I'm going to have the rear covers switched over to my rear seat frames. I choose nice stock original material over reproduction and I don't think I'd ever find a nicer set. These will be in storage until the car is back from being painted.
The underside of the seats are pretty amazing, the springs and tracks are mostly like new bare steel...same goes for the padding material.
11-03-2010, 03:43 PM
#28
Haven't had an update in a long time but quite a bit of progress has been made. First the car was leveled side to side and front to back...I suppose it will be within 1963 tolerances 
...and I found out how un-level the garage floor is...1/2" difference over 3 feel lol.
Front to rear level of the driver's side rocker pinch weld...
Leveling the engine in the engine bay...
...and the handy dandy scissor jack was put under the trans so that it could be positioned up in the tunnel to check the clearance all around. It really worked great :yes:
Level on the mount pad of the tailshaft...
...and I found out how un-level the garage floor is...1/2" difference over 3 feel lol.Front to rear level of the driver's side rocker pinch weld...
Leveling the engine in the engine bay...
...and the handy dandy scissor jack was put under the trans so that it could be positioned up in the tunnel to check the clearance all around. It really worked great :yes:
Level on the mount pad of the tailshaft...
11-03-2010, 03:44 PM
#29
The jack was cranked up until there was about 1/2" clearance between the trans and tunnel. Once it was where it needed to be, measurements were taken for the crossmember. I made this out of 1.5" square thick-wall tube and 1/8" plate. You can see there is a big difference between the TH350 and the 4L60E mount locations. Shims for the trans mount were made as well.
And checking the crossmember with a protractor...
After the crossmember was bolted up and the trans mount was tightened, the engine was set where it needed to be....again making sure there's clearance everywhere.
Checking level and driveline angle...
Right now it's sitting at 5°...that's as close as it's going to get. I may slide another shim under the trans mount, but 5° should be fine.
And checking the crossmember with a protractor...
After the crossmember was bolted up and the trans mount was tightened, the engine was set where it needed to be....again making sure there's clearance everywhere.
Checking level and driveline angle...
Right now it's sitting at 5°...that's as close as it's going to get. I may slide another shim under the trans mount, but 5° should be fine.
11-03-2010, 03:44 PM
#30
Once the trans was bolted down and the engine was sitting in its happy place, engine mounts were figured out using 1/8" styrene since the mounts will be made from 1/8" steel.
Templates were transferred to paper and since my Pro-E skills are very rusty, my brother drew them up....
....and then loaded them into the plasma cnc...
Fireworks in November...
The first test pieces...
After some tweaking we cut out the final parts and welded them up...these differ from the mounts you can buy in that there is no rearward offset, there is also only about 3/4" offset to the passenger side.
Templates were transferred to paper and since my Pro-E skills are very rusty, my brother drew them up....
....and then loaded them into the plasma cnc...
Fireworks in November...
The first test pieces...
After some tweaking we cut out the final parts and welded them up...these differ from the mounts you can buy in that there is no rearward offset, there is also only about 3/4" offset to the passenger side.
Last edited by 99ssleeper; 11-03-2010 at 04:35 PM.
11-05-2010, 02:33 PM
#35
The CBR stuff is geared towards the road course but I dont see why it wouldnt work just fine at the strip with the shocks loosened up and the front sway bar unhooked. For me, it's just a street car...so if it rides, stops, turns, and does better burnouts than it did in 1963, I'm happy.
11-08-2010, 09:29 AM
#37
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Nice progress! My 66 coupe will have the stock front end with an LSx, so the work you did on the motor mounts has been filed away for future use. Any chance you would share the Pro E file on them? If not, I completely understand.
Matt M.
Matt M.
11-09-2010, 01:23 PM
#38
A couple pics of the finished mounts with hardware. I CANT WAIT until the whole engine bay looks like the mounts do...clean satin black. Every time I look at these pics I want to get started on rerouting the brake lines too...but that will be later.
And then I spent a little time putting some of the accessories on it so I can run the harness and figure out which wires need to lenghtened or shortened....and just to see how it will look when it's finished
The air box was just for ****s and giggles but I think it would be cool to figure out a way to use it with a shorter radiator.
Next will be putting the PS pump on with a power rack and have hoses made, shorted the trans dipstick tube, figure out a radiator...the list goes on...
And then I spent a little time putting some of the accessories on it so I can run the harness and figure out which wires need to lenghtened or shortened....and just to see how it will look when it's finished
The air box was just for ****s and giggles but I think it would be cool to figure out a way to use it with a shorter radiator.Next will be putting the PS pump on with a power rack and have hoses made, shorted the trans dipstick tube, figure out a radiator...the list goes on...
11-09-2010, 02:01 PM
#39
After cleaning up the garage some and packing the parts boxes into the car for winter storage, I started messing around with the A/C unit just to see what it's going to take to use it in conjunction with the fbody A/C compressor which DOES fit in the stock clip with the engine mounts I made...which is a huge bonus :yes:.
Heres the stock evaporator...its much bigger than I thought it would be. Also shown is the expansion valve...the temp control is mounted to the switch inside the main case. Nothing digital here If you've never looked inside one, they are pretty simple and it doesn't look like it will be hard to retrofit new/newer components into the original case to make it appear original inside the car.
The a/c unit will get restored, but I couldnt help putting it in the car to see how it's going to look....its probably tough but try to envision a fawn dash, carpet, oem seat covers, tilt column, etc.
Heres the stock evaporator...its much bigger than I thought it would be. Also shown is the expansion valve...the temp control is mounted to the switch inside the main case. Nothing digital here
If you've never looked inside one, they are pretty simple and it doesn't look like it will be hard to retrofit new/newer components into the original case to make it appear original inside the car.The a/c unit will get restored, but I couldnt help putting it in the car to see how it's going to look....its probably tough but try to envision a fawn dash, carpet, oem seat covers, tilt column, etc.
