Another no oil pressure thread!
Another no oil pressure thread! So for anyone that read my other thread about not turning over, i got a new water pump, and bought a never used batter from a buddy that has 650cca[rated for 0*] and 800cca[rated for 32*c].
Anyways at first i tried cranking with the spark plugs in. The battery struggled a little to get it going then would drop out before seeing oil pressure, so definitely not strong enough, but good enough for now. So i went back and removed all the spark plugs to get the motor to turn easier till i got oil pressure. Well i let it turn for a good 4-5 seconds atleast 2-3 times, and got no pressure. I then pulled the oil filter to check if oil was atleast getting to it, but nothing.
My set up is a stock 5.3 with an f-body oil pan, windage and pickup.
Suggestions on what it may be and what to do is greatly appreciated as always. Going to search the web meanwhile!
Anyways at first i tried cranking with the spark plugs in. The battery struggled a little to get it going then would drop out before seeing oil pressure, so definitely not strong enough, but good enough for now. So i went back and removed all the spark plugs to get the motor to turn easier till i got oil pressure. Well i let it turn for a good 4-5 seconds atleast 2-3 times, and got no pressure. I then pulled the oil filter to check if oil was atleast getting to it, but nothing.
My set up is a stock 5.3 with an f-body oil pan, windage and pickup.
Suggestions on what it may be and what to do is greatly appreciated as always. Going to search the web meanwhile!
always pre fill the filter
and if you changed oil pans did you change the pickup o-ring? you have to be very careful when installing it
and if you changed oil pans did you change the pickup o-ring? you have to be very careful when installing it
Last edited by chevyboy91188; Oct 18, 2010 at 08:48 PM.
No i did not change the dipstick o-ring? How would that affect the pressure? Did you possibly mean pick up tube o ring?
I did not change that, going to pick one up tomorrow on my way home from work. Could it really be that simple???
This is fun, i've drained my fuel cell once, my radiator/wp pump once, and now my oil!
I did not change that, going to pick one up tomorrow on my way home from work. Could it really be that simple???
This is fun, i've drained my fuel cell once, my radiator/wp pump once, and now my oil!
No i did not change the dipstick o-ring? How would that affect the pressure? Did you possibly mean pick up tube o ring?
I did not change that, going to pick one up tomorrow on my way home from work. Could it really be that simple???
This is fun, i've drained my fuel cell once, my radiator/wp pump once, and now my oil!
I did not change that, going to pick one up tomorrow on my way home from work. Could it really be that simple???
This is fun, i've drained my fuel cell once, my radiator/wp pump once, and now my oil!
I don't think you're going to see oil pressure at cranking speed.
Get it started, if you don't see pressure w/in a handful of seconds, you may have an issue.
Also, agreed, good to fill the filter w/ oil before you install it when you can.
Get it started, if you don't see pressure w/in a handful of seconds, you may have an issue.
Also, agreed, good to fill the filter w/ oil before you install it when you can.
agreed on the oil pressure thanks for mentioning it I forgot about that. I didn't see but just barely 1 psi at cranking speed its just to prime it really
OK good to know, i was under the impression i should see oil pressure at crank speed.
I heard a while ago that you can use Vaseline on o rings to help them seal, is this true?
-edit- just read that petroleum jelly is good for anything oil/gas related, and water base stuff good for water-pump.
I heard a while ago that you can use Vaseline on o rings to help them seal, is this true?
-edit- just read that petroleum jelly is good for anything oil/gas related, and water base stuff good for water-pump.
Last edited by Marcello7x; Oct 19, 2010 at 06:26 AM.
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you will see oil pressure at cranking speed, but you are filling up all the oil gallys and filter right now, cranks it some more ant you will get pressure, but firing it up is the best way to do it (short of pressure lubing it, which most peoples garages/home shops arn't equipped to do)
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jack the back of the car up as far as you can. that will put all the oil in the front of the motor and submerge the oil pump and help to "prime" your oil system. after a few seconds of cranking with the oil pump submerged you should see pressure.
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 816
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Warning!!!!!!! do not replace your O-ring until you have primed your engine first. If this is a used engine that has been setting for a few years then you may just have a dry pump that will not prime itself. I found out the hard way after pulling the engine and replacing the O-ring 3 times still no pressure. Turned out my pump was dry and would not prime on it's on. Good luck
I figured i was filling everything as it was, but the oil filter was completely dry.
I have an old ring on there, and figure it should be replaced regardless. But i will try priming the motor first. Did you simply jack up the rear of the car as everyone else suggest?? I don't need to pull my motor to drop the pan, so its not a problem, i only need to drain the oil. Also supposedly the motor was ran a month or so before i bought it, and i've had it for 2-3 months now.
Im going to try jacking it up first, but i'll be buying a ring on my way home regardless. If the priming doesn't work, then i'll replace the ring and repeat.
Is jacking it up and cranking the only simple way of priming?
Warning!!!!!!! do not replace your O-ring until you have primed your engine first. If this is a used engine that has been setting for a few years then you may just have a dry pump that will not prime itself. I found out the hard way after pulling the engine and replacing the O-ring 3 times still no pressure. Turned out my pump was dry and would not prime on it's on. Good luck
Im going to try jacking it up first, but i'll be buying a ring on my way home regardless. If the priming doesn't work, then i'll replace the ring and repeat.
Is jacking it up and cranking the only simple way of priming?
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 816
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Some people jack it up not sure how high you have to go. I just overfilled my crank case with cheap 5w30 oil until it filled the pump and ran out the galley plug in the block located on the lower front drivers side. It took 19 quarts my modifed pan only holds 5.5 quarts instead of the original 7. I cranked it with the fuel pump fuse pulled out and got pressure almost instantly. I then drained it and refilled to normal level with quality oil and the rest is history. No issues going on 12k miles sense the swap. They sale a priming kit I hear but not sure were or how much. If you end up pulling the pan might as well double bolt the pickup tube. I made my on clamp but I think BRP or someone sales a kit to do it now.
Jacked the hell out of the back, cranked for a while and nothing, did get a very little in my oil filter tho, so im getting somewhere.
Then i pulled the pan, and the o-ring had a rip in it! Excited that it was that, the only problem is the o-ring i picked up is way to thin. Where can i get the correct one? Stealership???
And if anyone knows the link to that 2 bolt thing id like to take a look.
Then i pulled the pan, and the o-ring had a rip in it! Excited that it was that, the only problem is the o-ring i picked up is way to thin. Where can i get the correct one? Stealership???
And if anyone knows the link to that 2 bolt thing id like to take a look.
NVM on the link, here it is:
http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/mercha...Category_Code=
I have a second pickup tube that i could cut up to use. I'll spend lunch in the machine shop at work and use that.
Also i realized since i used the ring from my truck pickup tube, which has the recessed end, on the non recessed f-body tube, i caused the ring to get cut.
GM Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (1st Design)
12557752
BLUE SEAL
Specifics:
* Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea.
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8) 1st design
* F-Body (1998-2002)
* Cadillac CTS-V (2004-2007)
* Corvette (1997-2008)
* Thickness = 3.55mm (0.140")
ID = 23.60mm (0.930")
GM Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (2nd Design)
12584922
RED SEAL
Specifics:
* Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea.
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8 engines with 2nd design pick-up tube)
* Trailblazer (2003-2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Hummer H2 (2003-2008)
* Hummer H3 (2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (2001-2008 LS V8 engines)
* W- Body (2006-2008 With LS V8 engine - Impala, Lacrosse, Grand Prix)
* Thickness = 4.20mm (0.165")
ID = 20.69mm (0.815")
So theres the part numbers!! Calling the stealerships in the am.
http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/mercha...Category_Code=
I have a second pickup tube that i could cut up to use. I'll spend lunch in the machine shop at work and use that.
Also i realized since i used the ring from my truck pickup tube, which has the recessed end, on the non recessed f-body tube, i caused the ring to get cut.
GM Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (1st Design)
12557752
BLUE SEAL
Specifics:
* Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea.
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8) 1st design
* F-Body (1998-2002)
* Cadillac CTS-V (2004-2007)
* Corvette (1997-2008)
* Thickness = 3.55mm (0.140")
ID = 23.60mm (0.930")
GM Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (2nd Design)
12584922
RED SEAL
Specifics:
* Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea.
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8 engines with 2nd design pick-up tube)
* Trailblazer (2003-2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Hummer H2 (2003-2008)
* Hummer H3 (2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (2001-2008 LS V8 engines)
* W- Body (2006-2008 With LS V8 engine - Impala, Lacrosse, Grand Prix)
* Thickness = 4.20mm (0.165")
ID = 20.69mm (0.815")
So theres the part numbers!! Calling the stealerships in the am.
Last edited by Marcello7x; Oct 19, 2010 at 06:14 PM.
Mine started up and ran fine with a (brand new) dry oil pump on a never-run short block. I started it and had pressure in about 3 seconds. Always prime the oil filter with oil any time you take it off... including oil changes. It's a good habit!
Warning!!!!!!! do not replace your O-ring until you have primed your engine first. If this is a used engine that has been setting for a few years then you may just have a dry pump that will not prime itself. I found out the hard way after pulling the engine and replacing the O-ring 3 times still no pressure. Turned out my pump was dry and would not prime on it's on. Good luck
NVM on the link, here it is:
http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/mercha...Category_Code=
I have a second pickup tube that i could cut up to use. I'll spend lunch in the machine shop at work and use that.
Also i realized since i used the ring from my truck pickup tube, which has the recessed end, on the non recessed f-body tube, i caused the ring to get cut.
GM Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (1st Design)
12557752
BLUE SEAL
Specifics:
* Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea.
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8) 1st design
* F-Body (1998-2002)
* Cadillac CTS-V (2004-2007)
* Corvette (1997-2008)
* Thickness = 3.55mm (0.140")
ID = 23.60mm (0.930")
GM Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (2nd Design)
12584922
RED SEAL
Specifics:
* Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea.
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8 engines with 2nd design pick-up tube)
* Trailblazer (2003-2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Hummer H2 (2003-2008)
* Hummer H3 (2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (2001-2008 LS V8 engines)
* W- Body (2006-2008 With LS V8 engine - Impala, Lacrosse, Grand Prix)
* Thickness = 4.20mm (0.165")
ID = 20.69mm (0.815")
So theres the part numbers!! Calling the stealerships in the am.
http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/mercha...Category_Code=
I have a second pickup tube that i could cut up to use. I'll spend lunch in the machine shop at work and use that.
Also i realized since i used the ring from my truck pickup tube, which has the recessed end, on the non recessed f-body tube, i caused the ring to get cut.
GM Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (1st Design)
12557752
BLUE SEAL
Specifics:
* Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea.
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8) 1st design
* F-Body (1998-2002)
* Cadillac CTS-V (2004-2007)
* Corvette (1997-2008)
* Thickness = 3.55mm (0.140")
ID = 23.60mm (0.930")
GM Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (2nd Design)
12584922
RED SEAL
Specifics:
* Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea.
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8 engines with 2nd design pick-up tube)
* Trailblazer (2003-2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Hummer H2 (2003-2008)
* Hummer H3 (2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (2001-2008 LS V8 engines)
* W- Body (2006-2008 With LS V8 engine - Impala, Lacrosse, Grand Prix)
* Thickness = 4.20mm (0.165")
ID = 20.69mm (0.815")
So theres the part numbers!! Calling the stealerships in the am.
On your #3 post I was under the impression that the pickup tube and o-ring were not touched which sounded strange in your last post the o-ring was torn, but you later mentioned that you did change the pickup tube, yes it is very easy to damage the 0-ring, but you can get them at almost any G.M. dealership they are only like $5.00 dollars but I think your description is wrong the first style was red and then it was replaced with a 2nd design o-ring which is blue and then I believe there is still a 3rd design but it too is also blue, so I am pretty sure you want the blue one, and to confuse the situation more if you buy a Melling oil pump from the parts store it comes with a green one and a black one, but I think you are better off at the dealership with the blue one. Hopefully someone else can chime in to either validate or un-validate my post. Good Luck
I just ran outside to check the color of the one that i took off, and its blue! So the colors must be backwards, but with calipers it meets the specs of the second design!
Its good practice to replace the oil pump whenever you have the engine out regardless of age. It needs to be filled with oil prior to attempting to fire
The O-ring is a hot topic thats not really a huge deal. Green is truck pick-up tubes. I have a few of these sitting in my toolbox from previous oil pumps (come with both O-rings). The Fbody O-rings are blue, but what you should pay attention to is how it fits the pickup tube. The correct O-rings will be a perfect fit, not tight not loose. Compare the two, the truck is much fatter
The O-ring is a hot topic thats not really a huge deal. Green is truck pick-up tubes. I have a few of these sitting in my toolbox from previous oil pumps (come with both O-rings). The Fbody O-rings are blue, but what you should pay attention to is how it fits the pickup tube. The correct O-rings will be a perfect fit, not tight not loose. Compare the two, the truck is much fatter
Its good practice to replace the oil pump whenever you have the engine out regardless of age. It needs to be filled with oil prior to attempting to fire
The O-ring is a hot topic thats not really a huge deal. Green is truck pick-up tubes. I have a few of these sitting in my toolbox from previous oil pumps (come with both O-rings). The Fbody O-rings are blue, but what you should pay attention to is how it fits the pickup tube. The correct O-rings will be a perfect fit, not tight not loose. Compare the two, the truck is much fatter
The O-ring is a hot topic thats not really a huge deal. Green is truck pick-up tubes. I have a few of these sitting in my toolbox from previous oil pumps (come with both O-rings). The Fbody O-rings are blue, but what you should pay attention to is how it fits the pickup tube. The correct O-rings will be a perfect fit, not tight not loose. Compare the two, the truck is much fatter