Standalone Wiring help
The oil pressure sensor wire (tan) is a different story, this is only used for the gauge reading and does not go into the pcm. My harness is a '00 as well and this wire went from the sender into the cabin and connected to the bcm which then sends the signal out to the gauge.
May wanna recheck that..or someone correct me if I'm wrong!

The oil level sensor goes to the dummy light, nothing more. Your engine will give no complains to starting regardless of oil amount. The after effects may not be so nice though
The oil pressure sender is one of the last direct to gauge pieces you have, also has nothing to do with engine function
If the oil pressure wire only goes to the BCM to send info to the pressure gauge, why wouldnt the oil level wiring go to the BCM as well if all it's there for is to illuminate the low oil light on the IP?
Im in the middle of a swap myself, so this is the way I understand it from what I've read about. If theres better info, I, as well as the guy who started this thread, would appreciate hearing it.
Unplug the connectors and see if the car runs. I dont have it on my swap and many aftermarket pans dont even have the level sensor provision. I really dont know of any swaps that use it or went through the trouble of wiring in the BCM at all
I'm not using a BCM either, but I am tracing out the engine wiring thats not being used. When I found the oil pressure wire didnt go to the pcm I was surprised...and this is the reason. However, I didnt know the oil level sensor was the same light-only function since that does go to the PCM.
If your alternator is working now, you don't need to change a thing, the red is the exciter wire, but sounds like the one in your body/engine harness works, so leave it.
As for the fan, yes run the #1 fan relay control wire to the relay. It is a switched negative wire from the PCM. You will need to set your on and off temp. in the tune file.
Tach signal should be generated from crank pos. sensor thru PCM so your Autometer tach should work fine.
If you never plan to use a 60E again, check to see if the following wires have been removed.
Red - 2,6,8,42,45,47,48,51,63
Blue - 17,18,33,34,53.
The pinouts you posted look like A4, not M6, as I don't see CAGS solenoid etc......
This should get you started, maybe Pocket will chime in and help fill the holes, I'm sure I missed something.....
T,
As for the alternator wire, it is red on my harness (pin 15 "alternator L Terminal"), i figured that would just be the exciter wire? Shouldn't the pcm already know the voltage from the orange and pink power wires run to it?
I'm just asking because my alternator is already wired into my car and i would rather not change it if i don't need to.
To specify on the fan question, my fan is already wired into my car just through a relay and ignition power. My question is can i run the fan#1 relay wire to the relay so the fan is temperature controlled instead of just being on all the time?
To help put all of this in context, my car currently has a 6.0L with L92 heads and a carburator on it and i am in the process of putting fuel injection on it. Since it has already been running with the carb for quite awhile everything like the alternator, fan, speedo, starter, etc. is just wired to the car. So this harness willl solely run the fuel and spark so anything that doesn't relate to that is being removed.
Thanks for the info thus far
u need the alterator wiring coming from the pcm...tells the computer voltage etc...think it is brown?
For the obd2 port i always wire the grounds together....dosent need two different grounds just some scanners are different...
you are dead nuts on with the mil indicator light function
not sure on the tach but i will get back to you on it...
Not fully understanding the fan question?...i used a realy to control two fans and tapped it into my ignition wire cause i had a truck pcm which used a fan clutch....
Engine will Run with no VSS. But as said might have issues with it dying. I have a pulse Generator from dakota digital. It doesn't even have to be right just see a speed ...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DAK-SEN-01-4160/
Mines like that but no pass through as I have an electric Speedo.
Also why does the computer need to control the alternator again?
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
it needs a vss to see speed because if you just cut the fuel off back to a normal idle, the resistance by the transmission may cause it to stall. with the vss in place, it kicks the iac motor open a lil so it maintains a higher rpm longer, thats why when your coasting you always hear the engine a lil louder. IIRC



