The Yellow Submarine goes Nuclear - LS2/T56 Miata
GLW the build 
11-28-2010, 10:31 AM
#43
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Some Progress Photos Ahhh.. the end of an era...
Start of disassembly:
Pulled radiator, AC condensor, IC and related plumbing. Disconnected wiring, heater hoses, vac lines, speedo, PPF, driveshaft, exhaust, steering shaft..
Dropping the front subframe:
Realized the car wasn't high enough.. heh...
Oh, look, I have a fancy 1 post lift!
Out it comes.
Start of disassembly:
Pulled radiator, AC condensor, IC and related plumbing. Disconnected wiring, heater hoses, vac lines, speedo, PPF, driveshaft, exhaust, steering shaft..
Dropping the front subframe:
Realized the car wasn't high enough.. heh...
Oh, look, I have a fancy 1 post lift!
Out it comes.
11-28-2010, 11:14 AM
#45
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Heh, only enough power to beat the typical stock LS1 powered F-body in a stop light drag.
At 205 hp I ran a 13.6 @ 102 with it, the current setup is 225rwhp so maybe 13.3ish. It may be tiny, but it doesn't take a ton of HP to push a 2480 pound car down the strip. 
That motor dyno'd as high as 274 back as test mule for Flyin Miata, so you can get some fairly good numbers out of a whopping 97.45 c.i. The same 2.89 hp/ci puts you near 1000hp in a 350.
11-28-2010, 11:59 AM
#46
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that little things pretty impressive looking (and low 13s in a miata is fast)... but the more i look at these FI 4 cylinders I realize how compact ls1s are...
gonna use the same front clip?
gonna use the same front clip?
11-28-2010, 12:03 PM
#47
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that little things pretty impressive looking (and low 13s in a miata is fast)... but the more i look at these FI 4 cylinders I realize how compact ls1s are...
I love the look of it, the Racing Beat kit look nice (IMHO). I am going to do the side by side of both drivelines here in a few, just picking up the mess out here so I can set them next to each other.
gonna use the same front clip?
I love the look of it, the Racing Beat kit look nice (IMHO). I am going to do the side by side of both drivelines here in a few, just picking up the mess out here so I can set them next to each other.
gonna use the same front clip?
11-28-2010, 12:34 PM
#48
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Engine Comparison Cleaned up the mess.. much better.
Some photos comparing the old 1.6L to the new 6.0L. The parallax effect makes the Miata look longer but in reality the Miata water neck is in line with the front of the LS2 pulleys, and the shifter locations (once the T56 is converted to F-body style) are lined up.
Front shot of the motors taken from about the same distance:
GTO LS2 (sorry it's crooked!):
Miata 1.6L:
Measured the Miata, from TB cam to outside of turbo is the same width as the LS2 primary to primary on the manifolds (which is a guess for the header width), right around 25.5". Miata is 51.25" from front of belt to center of shifter, LS2 ia 54.5" for same.
Disturbingly tiny, that 6.0L.
Some photos comparing the old 1.6L to the new 6.0L. The parallax effect makes the Miata look longer but in reality the Miata water neck is in line with the front of the LS2 pulleys, and the shifter locations (once the T56 is converted to F-body style) are lined up.
Front shot of the motors taken from about the same distance:
GTO LS2 (sorry it's crooked!):
Miata 1.6L:
Measured the Miata, from TB cam to outside of turbo is the same width as the LS2 primary to primary on the manifolds (which is a guess for the header width), right around 25.5". Miata is 51.25" from front of belt to center of shifter, LS2 ia 54.5" for same.
Disturbingly tiny, that 6.0L.
11-30-2010, 08:15 AM
#50
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More Tranyn fun Research Update:
TRANSMISSION- More detail.. the GTO will convert to F-Body but not to Vette (found a stock C5 stick - no joy). The Vette shift box is different (smaller) and the shifter won't line up, so you have to use a Camaro/Firebird shifter. Thanks to Vesper TA for helping me with this info. Got some offers out on some used B&M/Pro 5.0s, we'll see what comes back accepted.
PARTS- Frog Arms (body stiffeners behind front fenders) arrived yesterday, look good! Should receive Exhaust and rear diffy stuff today. Been getting rid of parts from the RX7 project as well, little by little making room in the garage.
TRANSMISSION- More detail.. the GTO will convert to F-Body but not to Vette (found a stock C5 stick - no joy). The Vette shift box is different (smaller) and the shifter won't line up, so you have to use a Camaro/Firebird shifter. Thanks to Vesper TA for helping me with this info. Got some offers out on some used B&M/Pro 5.0s, we'll see what comes back accepted.
PARTS- Frog Arms (body stiffeners behind front fenders) arrived yesterday, look good! Should receive Exhaust and rear diffy stuff today. Been getting rid of parts from the RX7 project as well, little by little making room in the garage.
11-30-2010, 01:35 PM
#51
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Research Update:
ACCESSORIES- How does that old adage go? Time, Money or Quality.. you can only have 2 of them? So I can chase C6 parts to find and have machined (spend time) to save money and get quality.. or I can spend money (kit) to save time and get quality...
As much as it pains me to buy all new accessories, the 19155066 kit is probably the best bet for me right now. I did some car-part.com searching, and found very slim pickings especially in the 06/07 CTS-V config that I want to use (C6 stuff wasn't much better and would need the machining, plus some AC solution). So, I'll take the GMPD price over to Berger and see if they will match.. no shipping but pay taxes, should be about a wash. Not sure what to do on water pump and crank pulley yet. Thinking underdrive pulley (may order when I order the VRX5 cam kit), or pick up a used one.. that's the easy one. Water pump I can get at O'Reilly, but it needs the pulley which I don't have.. not sure what to do there yet. Otherwise, they are over $200 from FM or whomever. I like to save $$$ whenever I can, but chasing accessories for another 3 weeks an hope that I find all the parts I need... I'd rather write the check and know that the parts will be here when i need them. Besides, with my luck, that used ALT/AC/WP will puke it's guts out 200 miles after I get the car running anyhow.
Actual progress:
PARTS ORDERED- Ordered the Offset Lever to convert the T56 to F-body spec. Local dealer (Berger Chevy) was 150% of online price, so bought the part using link earlier in the thread (thegearbox). Ships today, sweet! Bought a used B&M short shifter for the tranny as well, just need to source a stock Z28 **** (have one on the RX7, and it suits me fine). Shifter ships out Friday, should have next week sometime.
PARTS RECEIVED- Flyin Miata order, 2 of 3 boxes arrived... CTS diffy (on it's own cute little pallet) and a box of exhaust. 3rd box is on a truck around town and should arrive soon, which is remainder of exhaust system, motor mount heat shields and engine bay corner braces. Still no word on the actual V8R kit.
ACCESSORIES- How does that old adage go? Time, Money or Quality.. you can only have 2 of them? So I can chase C6 parts to find and have machined (spend time) to save money and get quality.. or I can spend money (kit) to save time and get quality...
As much as it pains me to buy all new accessories, the 19155066 kit is probably the best bet for me right now. I did some car-part.com searching, and found very slim pickings especially in the 06/07 CTS-V config that I want to use (C6 stuff wasn't much better and would need the machining, plus some AC solution). So, I'll take the GMPD price over to Berger and see if they will match.. no shipping but pay taxes, should be about a wash. Not sure what to do on water pump and crank pulley yet. Thinking underdrive pulley (may order when I order the VRX5 cam kit), or pick up a used one.. that's the easy one. Water pump I can get at O'Reilly, but it needs the pulley which I don't have.. not sure what to do there yet. Otherwise, they are over $200 from FM or whomever. I like to save $$$ whenever I can, but chasing accessories for another 3 weeks an hope that I find all the parts I need... I'd rather write the check and know that the parts will be here when i need them. Besides, with my luck, that used ALT/AC/WP will puke it's guts out 200 miles after I get the car running anyhow.
Actual progress:
PARTS ORDERED- Ordered the Offset Lever to convert the T56 to F-body spec. Local dealer (Berger Chevy) was 150% of online price, so bought the part using link earlier in the thread (thegearbox). Ships today, sweet! Bought a used B&M short shifter for the tranny as well, just need to source a stock Z28 **** (have one on the RX7, and it suits me fine). Shifter ships out Friday, should have next week sometime.
PARTS RECEIVED- Flyin Miata order, 2 of 3 boxes arrived... CTS diffy (on it's own cute little pallet) and a box of exhaust. 3rd box is on a truck around town and should arrive soon, which is remainder of exhaust system, motor mount heat shields and engine bay corner braces. Still no word on the actual V8R kit.
Last edited by Wallyman; 11-30-2010 at 01:53 PM.
12-02-2010, 08:56 AM
#52
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Research Update:
ACCESSORIES- I keep flipping back and forth.. grrr! This accessory thing is a real PITA. (mainly because of the cost). Here's how it looks to me to convert a GTO LS2 to CTS-V spec:
$186 New Waterpump 06 CTS-V [GM @ GMPD]
$45 Buy C5 Harmonic (used C5/C6/CTS-V @ LS1Tech)
Sell GTO WP
Sell GTO Harmonic
$230 minus old parts being sold
Then there are two main options for the rest:
Option 1 - GMPP kit
$775 Buy GMPP 19155066 (GMPD)
$23 Buy 15306009 (PT1136) Alt wiring connector
$12 Buy 88953303 (PT1511) AC wiring connector
Sell GMPP PS + bracket
Sell GTO Alt + bracket
Sell GTO PS + bracket
Sell GTO AC + bracket
$810 minus old parts being sold
Option 2 - Modified GTO + CTS AC:
$354 Buy CTS AC Denso 10S17F (GMPD)
$30 Buy CTS AC bracket (GMPD)
$68 Buy CTS AC Tensioner
$12 Buy 88953303 (PT1511) AC wiring connector
$56 Buy CTS Serp Tensioner
$50 Modify GTO Alt bracket
Sell GTO PS + bracket
Sell GTO AC + bracket
$570 minus old parts being sold
I think once you factor in the parts being sold it's close to a wash (and any additional cost over option 2 buys you all new stuff).. so... I think the kit is still my answer. Need to get all the pieces printed to take to Berger so they can price match.
Build Update:
PARTS RECEIVED- 3rd box from FM arrived, still haven't opened them (busy busy!). Received the T56 "offset lever" from thegearbox (ordered one afternoon, had the next morning.. nice!)
PARTS BOUGHT- bought used LS2 crank pulley with 15k miles on it. Ships tomorrow should have next week.
PARTS IN PROCESS- V8R building my parts this week, estimated shipping sometime later next week which should put it here in time for the holiday break.
ACCESSORIES- I keep flipping back and forth.. grrr! This accessory thing is a real PITA. (mainly because of the cost). Here's how it looks to me to convert a GTO LS2 to CTS-V spec:
$186 New Waterpump 06 CTS-V [GM @ GMPD]
$45 Buy C5 Harmonic (used C5/C6/CTS-V @ LS1Tech)
Sell GTO WP
Sell GTO Harmonic
$230 minus old parts being sold
Then there are two main options for the rest:
Option 1 - GMPP kit
$775 Buy GMPP 19155066 (GMPD)
$23 Buy 15306009 (PT1136) Alt wiring connector
$12 Buy 88953303 (PT1511) AC wiring connector
Sell GMPP PS + bracket
Sell GTO Alt + bracket
Sell GTO PS + bracket
Sell GTO AC + bracket
$810 minus old parts being sold
Option 2 - Modified GTO + CTS AC:
$354 Buy CTS AC Denso 10S17F (GMPD)
$30 Buy CTS AC bracket (GMPD)
$68 Buy CTS AC Tensioner
$12 Buy 88953303 (PT1511) AC wiring connector
$56 Buy CTS Serp Tensioner
$50 Modify GTO Alt bracket
Sell GTO PS + bracket
Sell GTO AC + bracket
$570 minus old parts being sold
I think once you factor in the parts being sold it's close to a wash (and any additional cost over option 2 buys you all new stuff).. so... I think the kit is still my answer. Need to get all the pieces printed to take to Berger so they can price match.
Build Update:
PARTS RECEIVED- 3rd box from FM arrived, still haven't opened them (busy busy!). Received the T56 "offset lever" from thegearbox (ordered one afternoon, had the next morning.. nice!)
PARTS BOUGHT- bought used LS2 crank pulley with 15k miles on it. Ships tomorrow should have next week.
PARTS IN PROCESS- V8R building my parts this week, estimated shipping sometime later next week which should put it here in time for the holiday break.
Last edited by Wallyman; 12-02-2010 at 12:22 PM.
12-03-2010, 12:25 AM
#53
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Finalized your decision on a cam yet? If not I think you should really look into a Cam Motion grind. They have a nice selection of LS cams. Nice build BTW 
12-03-2010, 05:45 AM
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Wallyman
12-03-2010, 07:21 AM
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Something like this is what I would suggest:
C33-794 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 232'/236', .629"/.629", 113'+4'; 2,400 to 6,400 RPM
They have a couple of different lift options in that grind if you aren't comfortable with the .629. Something I have learned about Cam motion grinds is bc of the way they design their lobes, PTV clearance isn't an issue So don't worry about that part.
C33-794 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 232'/236', .629"/.629", 113'+4'; 2,400 to 6,400 RPM
They have a couple of different lift options in that grind if you aren't comfortable with the .629. Something I have learned about Cam motion grinds is bc of the way they design their lobes, PTV clearance isn't an issue
So don't worry about that part.
12-03-2010, 07:45 AM
#57
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Something like this is what I would suggest:
C33-794 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 232'/236', .629"/.629", 113'+4'; 2,400 to 6,400 RPM
They have a couple of different lift options in that grind if you aren't comfortable with the .629. Something I have learned about Cam motion grinds is bc of the way they design their lobes, PTV clearance isn't an issue So don't worry about that part.
C33-794 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 232'/236', .629"/.629", 113'+4'; 2,400 to 6,400 RPM
They have a couple of different lift options in that grind if you aren't comfortable with the .629. Something I have learned about Cam motion grinds is bc of the way they design their lobes, PTV clearance isn't an issue
So don't worry about that part. I assume that's on stock ratio rockers? (and PTV always scares me.. call me a sissy!)VRX5.......236/238 .601/.605 113 LSA 2,100 to 6,800 RPM
C33-794...232/236 .629/.629 113+4 LSA 2,400 to 6,400 RPM
The VRX5 has less lift but more duration... hmmmmm.. I'll do some digging on that cam to see what I can find. The VRX5 seems to be well loved in the LS2s, which is why I was thinking that would be a good fit for me. Thanks for the tip!
Wallyman
12-03-2010, 08:41 AM
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Here ya go....
C33-771 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 236'/240', .612"/.612", 114'+4'; 2,800 to 6,800 RPM
Like previously mentioned though, bc of the lobe designs fast ramp rates, it creates good PTV clearance especially on the exhaust side where the piston is chasing the valve. Here is mine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IaX82jcFAuI
C33-771 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 236'/240', .612"/.612", 114'+4'; 2,800 to 6,800 RPM
Like previously mentioned though, bc of the lobe designs fast ramp rates, it creates good PTV clearance especially on the exhaust side where the piston is chasing the valve. Here is mine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IaX82jcFAuI
12-03-2010, 08:58 AM
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Here ya go....
C33-771 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 236'/240', .612"/.612", 114'+4'; 2,800 to 6,800 RPM
Like previously mentioned though, bc of the lobe designs fast ramp rates, it creates good PTV clearance especially on the exhaust side where the piston is chasing the valve. Here is mine:
C33-771 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 236'/240', .612"/.612", 114'+4'; 2,800 to 6,800 RPM
Like previously mentioned though, bc of the lobe designs fast ramp rates, it creates good PTV clearance especially on the exhaust side where the piston is chasing the valve. Here is mine:
Got anything of it after tune/warmed up, etc? (imbedded was nice, I can't hit youtube directly here at work, heh)
12-03-2010, 09:38 AM
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None after tuning, yet.....(It's a mail order tune as I mailed my puter to my tuner) I'm ironing out other issues and my tuner is a couple hours away so I have to be slightly patient but my tunes are always on the money once they are finalized.