The gauges are the factory ones from 1992. Not sure who made them.

 

Thanks for the info. You have a beautiful Jeep sir. Congrats!

 

Thanks a lot for the detailed write up. It's been quite a big help in planning my swap. I'm swapping an LS2 / 4L70e from a Trailblazer SS into my TJ. I'm in the "getting things collected" stage right now and hope to have it rolling by Christmas 2014.

One question I keep having, and can't seem to find a clear answer is regarding the VSS signal. I plan on going to aftermarket gauges, and will be using the AA trans adapter with 40 tooth reluctor to go to my AtlasII transfer case. Since I'm going with aftermarket gauges, is there any reason I can't use the VSS for both transmission shift input AND speedometer? I know in 4-low it will give an inaccurate speed output, but I'm ok with that. I just see this as a way to shorten the transfer case another 3-4".

Thanks again for the great write up.

 

Yes it will work for both PCM VSS and your aftermarket self calibrating speedo.

Your speedo can feed right from the PCM speed output.

 

Thanks for that👍

Again, great write up!

 

Just note that when I was talking to the Dakota Digital about VSS signals they said you can't just splice the VSS to the speedo and then to the trans. They said to be done properly you need a signal splitter that they sell. I was inquiring about adding cruise control that needs a VSS signal to work properly.

 

I guess I could always use a GPS speedo and just have the VSS signal for shifting / cruise control. Then the speed wouldn't be incorrect in low range.

 

Do you remember the part number for your Dakota Digital Tach module? Mines running now and I need the tach working.

Did you get cramps in your cheeks from grinning all the time, too? This things a beast now!

 

Congrats on the completion of the project!

The tach adapter I use is the SGI-8

 

If your trans was a 2 wheel drive trans and did output shaft and transfercase adapter you could use vss from trans for PCM and vss in Tcase for gauge that's how we do all our jeep swaps and keep all factory gauges

 

Yes, however I did not use an expensive aftermarket transfer case adapter. Instead I converted my 2wd trans to a 4wd output shaft which allowed me to use an inexpensive factory GM transfer case adapter which I then bolted a hybridized NP231C/J transfer case up to. Total cost about $100.

I used the Jeep VSS for the Speedo and then hogged a couple of holes in the factory t-case adapter, clamped a reluctor wheel to the output shaft and have a GM 4000 PPM VSS for the PCM to use.

Has worked perfectly for over 3 years now.

 

Thanks,
I need to follow in you footsteps and swap in the Ford 8.8 now. I get a tremendous amount of axle wrap now.
Did you notice a lot of drive line vibration with the off set of the pinion on the 8.8? Ive heard it can be an issue. How is it at highway speeds?
Thanks!

 

Engine is centered and trans is set at 5 degrees down.

The Ford 8.8 (from an Explorer Sport) is set at 5 degrees up.

The driveshaft is 14.5" long.

Absolutely no vibration at freeway (or any) speed.

I used the MORE traction bar and 8.8 install kit.

Here's a recent pic of when it was borrowed by Santa Clause! He's on my naughty list for returning it filthy.

Merry Christmas!

 

You didn't by any chance keep track of the parts number for the radiator hose did you? Most auto parts stores in my area will only look up the hose by year. Thanks

 

Post #72 tells you how I figured out the hoses. The pictures will answer your direct question.

 

sweet rig!

 

I am collecting my parts for my 5.3 swap and almost done but have a couple questions for you. I have a 88 YJ and am trying to find the wire from the jeep that should power my 5.3 fuse block when the key is switched ON and stays powered when the key is turned to START the jeep. I found the wire that has power when the key is in the ON position but power shuts off when key is turned to start the jeep. I feel like I am just over looking something that should be easy to find.

Thanks for the help.

 

WIRING INFORMATION 1988 Jeep Wrangler
WIRE
WIRE COLOR
LOCATION

12V CONSTANT WIRE
RED
Ignition Harness

12V IGNITION WIRE
YELLOW
Ignition Harness

12V ACCESSORY WIRE
BROWN
Ignition Harness

STARTER WIRE
GREEN
Ignition Harness

PARKING LIGHTS (+)
BLUE/RED
Harness Running To Vehicle’s Rear In Driver’s Kick Panel

DOOR TRIGGER (-)
BLACK/WHITE
At Courtesy Light Under Dash

TACHOMETER WIRE
GREEN
At Ignition Coil

BRAKE WIRE (+)
WHITE
Plug At Brake Pedal Switch

HORN TRIGGER (-)
BLACK
Harness Coming From Steering Wheel At Column

 

You probably picked the Accessory Wire. That one shuts off when the key is in the cranking position. Keep in mind that when you do get the correct wire to make sure it can deliver the current required. If not add a relay, otherwise you can fry your ignition switch and or the circuits associated.

 

I was going to add a relay to the ignition wire anyway because someone before me messed up some wires so I will be rebuilding and removing wires that don't matter. They used speaker wire in multiple spots to fix melted wires.

Another question...On the 4L60E trans there is a shifter module on the shifter selector shaft. This module has 2 plugs and I was trying to figure out what wire I could use for reverse lights?