Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

I actually heard some ppl use mig w/ gas and flux core. They said they've never welded better in their life, can't say from personal experience tho. My Mig is a cheapo welder, i paid less than you did for a bottle of gas. Got it for $350ish shipped. Summit sells them as well: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLK-WE6524/

I was worried about the brand, but it works great although the gun is flimsy and i've had to open it up and fix a little. Supposedly shares parts with lincolns.


To be honest i haven't found any worthwhile deals within 2-3 hours drive. All alot older stuff, like 10-15yr old. And still close to the div165 price. So at this point i prefer to the warranty, and newly available parts if something goes wrong post warranty. It also helps that its a begginer's welder, since im teaching myself. Plus with it being new, i can sell it easier and upgrade in the future if i wish to upgrade.

My first welder was a Campbell hausfeld 115v mig. I got me through bodywork/rust repair on my 72 buick, and fixing/upgrading my dd exhaust. Paid 200ish shipped, and sold it for 185 two years later! For anyone that reads this don't buy a 115v mig, i thought i was a shitty welder, but as soon as i got something a little better my welds improved 100x.



What size tank do you guys recommend buying? I was thinking 80cf.

Rogue Status

iTrader: (1)

Check out the Hobart EZ TIG 165i. I was looking at the Miller Diversion and was told that the Hobart is a Miller 165 in disguise that is cheaper and is shipped with the foot pedal and standard torch.

River City Speed

iTrader: (3)

I've been using my Diversion 165 for about a year now and I love it. I did buy the foot pedal also. You should have no problem welding the 1/4" to the carb spacer. I just welded 5/8" stainless with mine.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

These are all excellent points. warranties are awesome to have and parts availability is necessary. One thing i've learned however, working in "the industry" for nearly 8 years, is that some of the older machines run better than 99.9% of the new ones. one of the best tigs i ever used was what looked like a vietnam era Miller, i can't remember the specific model, but it had the smoothest arc and was so easy and responsive to use. It sat right next to a two year old Syncrowave 250dx that almost never got used.

Don't get me wrong though, there are a LOT of junk machines out there too. I'd say you're making the right decision getting a new machine with limited parameters to adjust. there are several threads on this forum alone that will help you learn the basics. you should pick it up pretty quick, good luck

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

I am still looking for a tig welder - i looked at the Diversions, they seem nice but not settings i want. Looked at the miller dynasty 200 DX that had too many settings i would not use then Synowave 200 or 250 looks great for what i would be using it for. Plus it has a pulse...

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

what are you going to use it for? if you *need* the pulse feature, you'd be surprised how much of the Dynasty's settings you'll use once you become more experienced and in tune with the machine's quirks. Basically, that machine is designed to pulse. all the bells and whistles are for adjusting the pulse wave characteristics. Everything else on it is for adjusting gas pre- and post-flow, amps, etc...

You can get the Syncrowave 250 with pulse, but it's a more "basic" machine BUT has higher output than the Dynasty 200. i looked into a Syncrowave 200 a couple years back, but decided to hold off for a dynasty because i had some future plans that may include thin, exotic metals. the Syncrowave 250 would be the machine to have AND can be purchased used for a VERY reasonable price. Only problem is physical size, the syncrowaves are pretty big. My girlfriend has purses bigger than my Dynasty (and heavier).

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

Just using it for aluminum and stainless, nothing to serious. Mostly personal use, unless my buddies need something. The Dynasty is on back of my mind because you must be the 5th person to tell me the same, maybe i am just blind and do not see what i might use it in the future...

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

So i just ordered the welder, along with an 80cf tank. I would still like a foot pedal, but im going to look into other options, since the miller one for the diversion is the only part with bad reviews.

All i really need from here is filler rod, and to have my tank filled.

tvrbo

iTrader: (2)

Thumb wheel on the torch with hi-freq start is nice, especially in awkward spots like on cages.

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

Cages is one of my biggest plans for it as of now. I have some intake work to do, and turbo piping. But I already have two cages lined up, a 6pt in a miata, and a 4pt in my 33 coupe. Then i want to strengthen my frame by adding a permanent subframe. I have weight to spare so i prefer a little extra weight and alot more rigidity.

Im sure once i have it i will find all sorts of stuff to use it for.

Nashty

iTrader: (7)

If you're in Salem, Oregon, there is a diversion 165 with a full tank of Argon for $800 on Craigslist. He won't ship it though. If I was nearby, I'd go get it. He said it's been used only like once or twice. It's new essentially.

txcarbuilder

This will work if you make sure that the 2 circuits are on separate sides of the breaker box. Just make sure that you wire your adapter box correctly.

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

Nope, no where near Oregon. I already ordered as well, should be in soon.

The adapter is the easy part, getting the separate breakers, is the hard part.
Im simply going to run a normal 220 outlet though.

I would be getting it ready now, but my cell died on me, and im working on some fun hacking for a new phone.

joker120

Did you get a dual regulator setup for purges? The reason you purge out the oxygen on the inside of a tube weld; It will *sugar* the weld and those pieces can find there way into fun stuff like turbos:lmao

pick up a copy of tig welding for dummies to get you started and just play with the machine. Got more than a few years on this and it feeds my family so if you get some tough questions drop a pm, more than glad

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

Im going to have whatever regulator that comes with the unit. I also have a second one laying around from my old mig, can both be set up to run like a dual?

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

you'll either need a dual regulator or a 2nd argon bottle for your other regulator. you just need to run a little gas inside the pipe while you weld to keep the back/underside of the puddle protected. it doesn't take much flow, usually 3-6 while your welder's regulator should be around 20-25, more or less depending on the weld and your environment.

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

Oh ok now i get what what you guys are talking about. Can you T off of the bottle and then add the second regulator? unless theres another option im going to buy the dual regulator once it comes time for the tube welding, but for now i'll stick to what i have. I don't have the extra cash with x-mass coming.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

i've never seen it done, but i don't see why you couldn't T off the bottle to two seperate regulators, but you'll need to use hose/lines/fittings that can handle the pressure inside the bottle. i'd hold out for the dual regulator though.

joker120

+1

Just a hint when you back purge too, you just want flow to displace the air--never pressure

Don't get discouraged because most people can't just pick up a torch and run a bead with filler in the other hand and a foot on a pedal

Keep the tungsten to a sharp point on the steel and let her ball up a tick for the Al and practice, practice, and then practice

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Couple Q's regarding this, I've gotten the best results with steel by having a thoriated electrode sharpened up to a fine point, which is certainly NOT what miller recommends, why is that?

Also for the aluminum, I work at a bike company and the welders' electrodes are VERY balled up, but they happen to also lay the most perfect aluminum beads I've ever seen... To what shape do you initially sharpen the electrode in order to get it to ball, and how long does it take to "ball up"?

Cheers,
Joe