I have read a lot about different combinations for conversions and have a couple of questions.

I currently have a 1937 Chevy PU street rod with a SBC/700R4/Ford 9" setup. It seems that installing a LS engine would be an awesome upgrade for this applications, but am wondering how much I am really getting into. I currently have a very good fuel system for the carb application, and an MSD ignition system. There also is a Zex plate N20 system on the truck. All of this, I would like to reuse if possible.

Now for the questions......

Is there really an advantage in the LS engine over a standard SBC if you do not use the fuel injection and switch to a carb?

Is it really difficult to keep the fuel injection? Do you simply need to upgrade the fuel pumps and regulators?

As usual, I would not consider this change without an upgrade in power. I currently drive a 2011 Denali with a L92 in it and would love to put the 6.2l in my street rod. If I do this, and I simply buy a crate engine, what additional cost am I looking at to get it to run in this street rod application(computers, sensors etc)? Can they even be used if you use the 700R4 platform?

What is the best way to go(LS1,LS3,L76,L92) to manage cost and get really good performance? I realize that this is the ultimate question, but I am really just looking for some advice in the best way to go.

Thanks...I have a lot more questions, but will start with this.

 

Welcome to the site, good to see another street rodder type here. I have been running an LS1 in my Studebaker for over 4 years and 15k miles now and could not be happier. Swaps are easier now than when I did mine because the market has really grown with equipment designed for the swap market. I love my fuel injection. If you drive your PU a lot you will love it, basically a set it, forget it and drive the day lights out of it. Drivability is great, power band is real flat they just keep on pulling. You could hook up your power adder pretty easy if you decide you need it. Fuel economy is great too. Mine gets 27 mpg on the highway and runs 13.60 in a full street trim 3500 lb car. To get all that you need, the best way IMO is to get a pull out motor from something like your Denali. That way you get all the sensors you need, plus the computer and harness. You can modify a stock harness or get a custom one that has just what you need. You can make it work with your 700R4, but if you can find a matching late model trans will probably make a better deal. Then you could sell your combo to offset the cost. Hope that helps some. I suggest you read the stickys at the top of the page and use the search tool. Lots of info here and I bet most of your questions have been asked and answered. But don't be afraid to ask if you don't find what you need.

Pat

 

Yes.. welcome.. as Pat has said.. EFI is the way to go.. +1 on what he has said about post swap feelings and options.. I've had my swap for 5+ years now. I only get 23+mpg, but that is with 4.11 rear grears and a 6sp trans.

You could go with a Carb setup (edelbrock and MSD).. At WOT.. you will not be giving up much if anything at all.. but its the low and midrange power band that is where the EFI shines.. The cost of going with a Carb is not as much of a saving as you might think and in the long run.. the EFI fuel savings will really shine..

 

The LS motors do have a distinct advantage even with a carb. LS motors return a lot more power with less cam than first gen motors.

Carb vs. EFI has been beat to death in past threads. It can be tough cutting through the hyperbole because it is almost a religion for some guys. Truth is they both perform, they are both easy to drive, both have good low end response when warm and contrary to what some guys want to believe from every head to head comparison I have seen they get similar gas mileage when set up properly. The key to good fuel economy seems to lie in an overdrive transmission, not the induction method.

What it seems to come down to is people going with whatever they feel most comfortable with tuning.

IMO the big advantage of EFI over carb is the better fuel metering when cold. To start an EFI motor you just turn the key, carbs require a little more fineness . An EFI motor will live longer since carbs do such a poor job of metering fuel when cold that a good bit ends up in the oil when it blows by the rings.

But for a weekend cruiser, especially in a warm weather state, the drawbacks of the carb are minimal. And with an open plenum intake a carb will return a pretty significant boost in top end HP. Maybe not a big selling point for a heavy street rod truck.

Going EFI with a complete pull out motor isn’t difficult to do. The wiring scares some people but there is plenty of on line help from people who have already done it. For your application you will need a high pressure pump and some type of regulator. You really should add a sump to your tank. Carbs have fuel bowls which help keep the car from leaning out if the fuel inlet starts sucking air in a hard turn. Do the same thing with EFI at WOT and you risk engine damage from going lean.