My Turn...No Start!
You never know, though! Right now I'm following on the evidence trail.
At the least, this has been a good learning experience.
thanks!
Funny that you bring this up. I heard some buzzing or somethin' coming from the TB. The CD manual doesn't mention this as a cause of no spark/no inj, or that this would keep the engine from firing.
I can disconnect this, and it should still start, yes?
I can disconnect this, and it should still start, yes?
The evidence is pointing this way. Tommorrow the temp goes up to 40f...it's been hovering around 18-20f-too cold to move my hands after awhile. I think I'll check out the harness for continuity between the CKP sensor & the ECM.
If that's ok, a new sensor could be in order. Not sure if you saw the prev posts....CKP did appear on the trbl code list at first. I haven't been able to make it reappear, though. Perhaps AUTOZONE will let me borrow one to test out
def. check continuity between the ckp and cmp to the pcm. also, check to make sure ur connector pins arent too loose, cuz thatwill cause resistance or an open circuit, and definately create some problems.
Here's what happened today.
While checking continuity between the crank sensor plug & the ECM, I found that the yellow/black jumper is open. After bypassing with a separate jumper, the NOID light correctly lit up & there was spark at the cylinder tested.
Provided that I have the valve events properly aligned, the car should start tommorrow. In the meantime, the battery is receiving a charge.
This has been a good learning experience and thanks to all of you, I now feel much more familiar with the schematics and ignition process.
While checking continuity between the crank sensor plug & the ECM, I found that the yellow/black jumper is open. After bypassing with a separate jumper, the NOID light correctly lit up & there was spark at the cylinder tested.
Provided that I have the valve events properly aligned, the car should start tommorrow. In the meantime, the battery is receiving a charge.
This has been a good learning experience and thanks to all of you, I now feel much more familiar with the schematics and ignition process.
Last edited by gMAG; Dec 11, 2010 at 07:44 PM.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Ha, Ha! My ears were 'buzzing'...your comment brought me back to this thread.
After the prev stuff was corrected, the car would sputter on a couple of cylinders and a loud POP out the open headers on another cylinder.
Those injectors had been sitting since 2002, so I thought it would be wise to remove the fuel rail and test each inj for spray or lack of fuel.
After removing the injs, there was wet fuel on one and the others were completely dry. The plastic o-ring seats at the bottoms were split, and it's prob a good thing that the other injs weren't flowing bec the one inj which was delivering spat a cloud of gas by the o-ring into the air!!! My bro suggested I go ahead and do the spray pattern test on each inj anyway. The more I thought about it, if the injs were stuck shut, and I soaked them in Seafoam or somesuch, how good would the end result be if there still wasn't a good spray pattern?
So, after calling for a rebuild kit(thanks, 98transbum!), I was told there is a special $89. for cleaning & flow-matching (an unsolicited plug). I've just sent the injs to them for cleaning.
Just wanted to add that it's difficult to resist the temptation to do too much, too soon.
I'll keep you posted!
After the prev stuff was corrected, the car would sputter on a couple of cylinders and a loud POP out the open headers on another cylinder.
Those injectors had been sitting since 2002, so I thought it would be wise to remove the fuel rail and test each inj for spray or lack of fuel.
After removing the injs, there was wet fuel on one and the others were completely dry. The plastic o-ring seats at the bottoms were split, and it's prob a good thing that the other injs weren't flowing bec the one inj which was delivering spat a cloud of gas by the o-ring into the air!!! My bro suggested I go ahead and do the spray pattern test on each inj anyway. The more I thought about it, if the injs were stuck shut, and I soaked them in Seafoam or somesuch, how good would the end result be if there still wasn't a good spray pattern?
So, after calling for a rebuild kit(thanks, 98transbum!), I was told there is a special $89. for cleaning & flow-matching (an unsolicited plug). I've just sent the injs to them for cleaning.
Just wanted to add that it's difficult to resist the temptation to do too much, too soon.
I'll keep you posted!
Last edited by gMAG; Dec 21, 2010 at 06:20 PM.
Spoke with Jon @ FuelInjectorConnection, who advised me that 3 of the injs were completely blocked and could not be cleaned/needed to be replaced. The other 5 injs were marginal and needed to be cleaned & matched.
So, wanting things correct, I went for this. The injs arrived back on Mon. Tues AM, after refitting the injs & checking everything, the car sputtered a bit, then came to life. After 7+years of this project, my wife and I are absolutely thrilled!
Thanks again everyone!
Glenn
So, wanting things correct, I went for this. The injs arrived back on Mon. Tues AM, after refitting the injs & checking everything, the car sputtered a bit, then came to life. After 7+years of this project, my wife and I are absolutely thrilled!
Thanks again everyone!
Glenn
