6.0L Silverado engine fire questions
6.0L Silverado engine fire questions Hey guys came across a deal today for a 2001 Silverado with a 6.0 in it the down fall is that it was burnt in a fire.Of course most of the wiring is shot and the intake is melted. I can get this for a pretty cheap price however how hard is it or what is needed to find out the wiring harness and ecm I need. I already have the LS1 intake for it but I am more concerned with finding the harness. What do you guys suggest?
From the wealth o' info you provided, I'd have to say "maybe."
Run leakdown test on all 8 cyls at TDC and report back w/ numbers.
Then disassemble the engine, magnaflux the entire block, and report back w/ results.
...or maybe it's just cheaper to buy a running engine instead...
Run leakdown test on all 8 cyls at TDC and report back w/ numbers.
Then disassemble the engine, magnaflux the entire block, and report back w/ results.
...or maybe it's just cheaper to buy a running engine instead...
$400 might not be too bad of a price for a 6.0 block and heads, but seems high for one that has been burned. You're going to need every sensor, intake, coils, ect. That stuff adds up real quick. Not to mention the fact that there is probably water in at least a couple of cylinders rusting them up as we speak, if the fire was put out with anything other than a fire extinguisher. And then there's all the burned crap that finds it's way inside the engine. I say all this because I have an LS6 that came from a burned car, and this is what I found.
I would keep looking for something more complete unless you plan on rebuilding it, then I would offer less than $400 and see what happens.
I would keep looking for something more complete unless you plan on rebuilding it, then I would offer less than $400 and see what happens.
$400 for just the engine? $400 for the engine and trans? $400 for the entire truck???
If you arent confident in checking to make sure the motor is ok, Ide walk away and go with something you know is good. Wiring is the least of your concerns. You can find used harnesses, build your own, or go aftermarket fairly easily.
But if you can check it, and feel its a good motor that just needs a little work to get back into shape, then it might be something you want to consider. Just need more info before any of us are going to be of any real help to you.
J.
If you arent confident in checking to make sure the motor is ok, Ide walk away and go with something you know is good. Wiring is the least of your concerns. You can find used harnesses, build your own, or go aftermarket fairly easily.
But if you can check it, and feel its a good motor that just needs a little work to get back into shape, then it might be something you want to consider. Just need more info before any of us are going to be of any real help to you.
J.
My buddy bought a fire victim a couple years back. The truck had gotten hot enough to melt the front fenders OFF, the front cover was melted, and the oil pan was melted. He picked it up for $400, and has since sold over $600 in parts off it, not to mention the fact that when we disassembled the engine, it was in perfect shape, I wouldn't have hesitated to run it. Not having a use for it, and having pipe dreams of a 408, he disassembled it, where it now sits.
If there are any good parts on the truck, and you have space to keep it until you're done, buy that sucka.
If there are any good parts on the truck, and you have space to keep it until you're done, buy that sucka.
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Doesn't sound like a deal to me. I get 6.0L motors up here from Bow Auto for $1000-$1400 depending on mileage. They unbolt and unplug everyhting so nothing is hacked. They sell them this way with all of the accesories (starter, a/c comp, altenator, coils), PCM, harness etc. and has a 6 month warranty. Just my $.02
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Doesn't sound like a deal to me. I get 6.0L motors up here from Bow Auto for $1000-$1400 depending on mileage. They unbolt and unplug everyhting so nothing is hacked. They sell them this way with all of the accesories (starter, a/c comp, altenator, coils), PCM, harness etc. and has a 6 month warranty. Just my $.02
I bought a burned LM7 for $75. Intake was melted, coils, harness, fuel rails all junk, even the valve covers were hurt. But the heads were just fine. So were the rocker arms. There were some crispy intake manifold bits in a couple of cylinders, so you do need to plan on buying head gaskets and bolts.
I have a spare LQ9 intake I could part with.
I have a spare LQ9 intake I could part with.
I would pass, but that's just me. By the time you replace everything that got torched, you could buy a complete motor with harness and all, and go from there.....get it in the car and running, and then plan your mods later. I wouldn't trust one that had been hot, as it is subjected to way more temperture than it was designed for....too many unknowns......IMO....unless you are going to tear it down and freshen it up anyway.....
There are plenty of good deals out there, just shop around some.....you'll find them, right after you pull the trigger on one....LOL...
T,
There are plenty of good deals out there, just shop around some.....you'll find them, right after you pull the trigger on one....LOL...
T,
Well, I got it home today and started chipping away at the molten mountain of melted plastic to find a pretty good engine. It is very clean, heads look good. I pulled them off to find that only 1 cylinder had maybe a tablespoon of water in it. Other that some small pieces in the clylinder the motor is really nice inside. I talked with the guy and I noticed that it had had a tune up pretty recent and they apparently had some service work done to it and shortly after that is when the truck caught fire. I am going guessing the lt rear corner of the intake was the start of the fire cause it just looks like it was the worst part of the intake. Overall I am happy with the buy!
I'd say that the only gaskets / seals needing replaced are those required for any head swap. The trans bellhousing protected the rear cover, and the water pump gaskets were just fine. So was my front cover gasket, and even my valley cover gasket.
It'll be running sooner for cheaper if you keep it injected. The only reason for going carbureted is if your cam is so wild that the computer can't be tuned for it. And that takes a truly insane cam.
