tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

gMag= would this not cause the engine to sit lower if the plates were not used?

bczee

iTrader: (12)

There is a good page on the Energy Suspension web site, with measurements of both the Tall/Narrow and Short/Wide mounts and stands..

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I just switched adapter sides and flip them over so that the point is forward but on the bottom. This allowed me to flip my mounts over which raises the engine some. I managed to get a 1/4" more clearance. Which I am figuring only raised the engine approx. 1/8" of an inch given a 45 degree angle. I went out and measure some brand new stands at the restoration shop today. The 302/350 stands are way too short and the low perf. sbc stands were exactly what I already own. Soooooo, I went back out in the garage and double checked the clearance from the bottom of the hole in the stand to the highest portion of the cross member and I am right at 4 3/4". Went to the other garage and checked my mounts to the bottom of the pan with the mounts upside down and have 5 1/8" hanging below the bottom of the bolt hole. Do I make spacers to go under the stands? Do I make spacers to go between the mounts and adapters? Do I go ahead and cut the damn cross member and weld in a plate that is lower than stock? I am afraid if I raise the engine up then I will have interference everywhere else. As in bellhousing to tunnel, headers to the bottom of the floor pans, and driveline issues. If I put the adapters back like they belong and cut the cross member nothing else will be affected. I actually thought if I was going to raise the engine I could build new stands altogether. How sweet would that be!!! I would if I knew everything else would be ok. I think the headers would be fine as I was told they might be a little low to start with but what about the bellhousing to the tunnel? Kevmac have you decided of which route you are going? Seems we have took over your thread. SORRY!!! I will shut up for a little bit.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately, I didn't measure the old setup, which was a 350sbc with standard mounts. So, I have no baseline to compare.
If you're comparing how the 'new' LS1 sits with & without the deleted backing plate, then yes, it would be sitting 'lower'.
Given my combo of engine stands, LS1, Hooker plates & Energy Susp mounts, there was no way that the LS1 would be able to be bolted into the Ener Susp mounts using the backing plates. The holes just won't line up.
An alternative might be to reposition the mounts against the Hooker engine plates by drilling holes in the appropriate places on the plates. Some people have even turned the plates upside-down, which could gain you some clearance/make the engine sit lower/higher.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I think I found my solution! I am going to flip the adapters back over in proper form and use Moroso solid mounts. I have a set that came off of the Gen 1 I took out. I checked at Moroso last night and they have three different configurations of this mount with different widths and different heights. The ones I have are 1 3/4" to the center of the hole. They make them over 2" tall if needed but are narrower. There is a guy on here that has a Nova build up with twin turbos that notched his crossmember to make it happen. After he notched the crossmember he stated that after he gave it some thought in hindsight he may have not needed to notch it but rather use the Moroso solid mounts. I had these mounts installed before but after getting the car back from paint and body opted to use factory style rubber mounts to keep the shaking to a minumum. The cam I had in the Gen 1 was more aggresive with its 106 LSA and with only 331 ci it seemed even bigger. The LS with a 112 LSA and larger cubic inch ought to be fairly tame. I will let you know how this turns out. I also contacted Moroso and expressed my concern with this pan. Of course I will hear that I have the wrong adapters or something I am sure. Fingers crossed they actually care. Does anyone use the other Moroso LS oil pan with the flat bottom? If I remember correctly the pickup tube sits above (engine upside down) the windage. If the pickup tube is higher (in relative terms) than the windage tray and both pans use the same pick up tube, why won't the flat pan work with a windage tray? Is there cross bracing inside the flat portion that will interfere?

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

If you use solid mounts, just be prepared for some real vibration introduced into the chassis. I have driven dedicated drag cars before and after solid mounts and I would not put them in a street car.

kevmac

iTrader: (1)

tsnow, I made some spacers for under the bracket and going to try them today. If not I'm gonna try the taller mounts. Hope this tread helps other.
kev

bczee

iTrader: (12)

You can mix and match the two types of mount to get a in between height between the S/W and T/N.. that is what I did on my Chevelle...

Used T/N Motor mounts with narrowed S/W frame stands..

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

The only problem with mix matching mounts and stands is the widths are different. A tall/narrow mount is 2 3/8" inside and the short/wide stands are either 2 1/2" or 2 5/8" outside. I didn't mind the solid mounts too bad but your right speedtiger it isnt the best choice. I guess when I get home tomorrow I will break out the saw or zip wheel and notch the crossmember. I have burned all of my boxes and do not have the original packaging for the moroso pan. Jumped the gun on that one. Live and learn. I dont really want to raise the entire assembly up for fear of interference somewhere else so I am going to keep her low and cut everyhting out of the way. Its not like this car is original any ways and it wont hurt the structural strength it might even be stronger when I am done. Kevmac let me know what you find out and maybe you can help save the life of an original subframe. Its all on your shoulders, lol!!!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Sorry bcZee I didnt see the "narrowed stands" part. My oversight!!!

bczee

iTrader: (12)

NP.. I hate it when I do that ! LOL

for your cross member. I saw a thread that he cut the crossmember and banged down and welded it back up.. Used a 3 sided cut (2 sides and the front), leaving the rear most part intack, then you can just fill in with some metal and weld it all up.. leaving a larger flat notch in the middle of the cross member.. maybe 12"x12" or what ever size you need it.. leaving room for the engine to shift some.

that might get your engine to side low.

kevmac

iTrader: (1)

Success!! A few shims and a little grinding to olongagate(is that right?) the frame holes and it fit nicely. Pan cleared and all. I'll try to get some pics here

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Yes please do post some pics because I am heading out to the garage in about an hour to start cutting and welding. Can you or do you mind taking some showing the gap between the pan and the cross member? Also give us the final verdict on which adapters, stands, mounts, shims, and position of engine. Thanks!!!

P.S. Guess Moroso has no answers to help remedy my problem from their "customer no service" department. Guess Moroso can starve the next time I need something I will buy it else where.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Funny.. post number #3 in this thread.. I state that this was my setup to fix these same problems... LOL...

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Did you get everything situated? I went ahead and cut and plated the crossmember but would still like a pic or two of your final location. Thanks

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Kevmac- I sure would like a pic of your final setup. I have no issues with my pan but the bolt holes are still not lining up.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Kevmac hows the build going? Its been like a month since your last post.