Ebay SS Shorty Headers - Crap?
Ebay SS Shorty Headers - Crap? Has anyone run these shorty headers, offered by a KS company on Ebay?
They look like they will fit my swap, but I'm just curious of the build quality. The car "might" end up with a turbo on it, so I want something that's going to last decent. And before you say it, yes, I know, "you get what you pay for"
That being said, Has anyone used them?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-L...Q5fAccessories
They look like they will fit my swap, but I'm just curious of the build quality. The car "might" end up with a turbo on it, so I want something that's going to last decent. And before you say it, yes, I know, "you get what you pay for"
That being said, Has anyone used them?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-L...Q5fAccessories
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 578
Likes: 4
From: REALITY
Whats the worst thing that can happen?
The ceramic coating gets chipped?
they rust?
Or flake?
Which are symptoms that patriot,Hooker,Edelbrock and Hedman all do eventually.....
ask people how many times they have paid $500-$600 for headers and they started to rust within a year? Mine did, especially if you drive this car often or live in a humid climate.... I have had Hooker,Patriot,Edlebrock, etc... they all started to rust at some point 1-2 years.....
So hey give it a shot and report back....
Bozz
The ceramic coating gets chipped?
they rust?
Or flake?
Which are symptoms that patriot,Hooker,Edelbrock and Hedman all do eventually.....
ask people how many times they have paid $500-$600 for headers and they started to rust within a year? Mine did, especially if you drive this car often or live in a humid climate.... I have had Hooker,Patriot,Edlebrock, etc... they all started to rust at some point 1-2 years.....
So hey give it a shot and report back....
Bozz
Also, the only headers offered for my application that fit are like $500+
..............for shorty headers, that will be no good with a snail.
That's what I'm thinkin. But I don't wanna buy them, have them not fit, and then the guy won't take em back, ya know? I don't really have $200 to **** away at this point.
Whats the worst thing that can happen?
The ceramic coating gets chipped?
they rust?
Or flake?
Which are symptoms that patriot,Hooker,Edelbrock and Hedman all do eventually.....
ask people how many times they have paid $500-$600 for headers and they started to rust within a year? Mine did, especially if you drive this car often or live in a humid climate.... I have had Hooker,Patriot,Edlebrock, etc... they all started to rust at some point 1-2 years.....
So hey give it a shot and report back....
Bozz
The ceramic coating gets chipped?
they rust?
Or flake?
Which are symptoms that patriot,Hooker,Edelbrock and Hedman all do eventually.....
ask people how many times they have paid $500-$600 for headers and they started to rust within a year? Mine did, especially if you drive this car often or live in a humid climate.... I have had Hooker,Patriot,Edlebrock, etc... they all started to rust at some point 1-2 years.....
So hey give it a shot and report back....
Bozz
All this being said, I have a pair of truck manifolds, and two pair of F-body manifolds for sale! haha
Trending Topics
Here is a little drawing that I made to further help people. I just extrapolated the measurements that were in the original Ebay ad, and applied them to the rest of the headers.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 578
Likes: 4
From: REALITY
Ok, but just to let you know Stainless steel can and does rust, but its rate of rusting is much less than other alloys... Stainless steel is not obsolete from rust...... I know this for a fact.....
But goodluck
Bozz
But goodluck
Bozz
If you need something that is short and tucks away, I have a set of Street and Perf headers , the street rod style, ad says will fit most corvettes. take a look at them on the S&P website and if they will work for you, get back to me , they were not going to work in my application, got them with a package deal, engine, harness, headers, etc
There is one more thing to worry about in Turbo applications. Being a Buick Grand National racer from back in the day, I will tell you that tubular shorties can and often do crack when used with a turbo. That is the only thing I would be concerned about. This is where the stock cast manifolds really shine.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 578
Likes: 4
From: REALITY
It is important to note that there are different grades of stainless. There is elcheapo stainless all the way up to surgical steel. The higher grades designed not to rust, do no rust. The cheaper stuff absolutely will as it lacks the necessary amount of expensive alloys (in this case nickel) to inhibit rust.
There is one more thing to worry about in Turbo applications. Being a Buick Grand National racer from back in the day, I will tell you that tubular shorties can and often do crack when used with a turbo. That is the only thing I would be concerned about. This is where the stock cast manifolds really shine.
There is one more thing to worry about in Turbo applications. Being a Buick Grand National racer from back in the day, I will tell you that tubular shorties can and often do crack when used with a turbo. That is the only thing I would be concerned about. This is where the stock cast manifolds really shine.
Hell check out their website, not high grade at all...
Bozz
As of now, I am left to these, the $500 shorty headers that are N/A only, or build my own. I'm leaning toward building my own at this point, likely in just mild steel, and having them coated. But time shall tell.
I have a set of the fleabay headers I am using them on my engine run stand. The stainless tubing is the same as sliverware/pots and pans. However the flanges look like nickle plated steel so they may rust. Seller is from KC, Ks. Not a bad deal for the price. Recommended IF they fit your application. If not they are cheap enough to hack up and have the tubes professionally re-welded.
I have a set of the fleabay headers I am using them on my engine run stand. The stainless tubing is the same as sliverware/pots and pans. However the flanges look like nickle plated steel so they may rust. Seller is from KC, Ks. Not a bad deal for the price. Recommended IF they fit your application. If not they are cheap enough to hack up and have the tubes professionally re-welded.
Having said that I have no idea whether cheap SS headers will rust out faster than expensive ones.
To the OP, when you go turbo, do you plan on flipping the headers over or just plumbing in the turbos from underneath? Having a 240 it is hard for me to see how you will get one set of manifolds to suit both needs. Unfortunately I can't see your pics from work.
I use to work in a nuc plant. All grades of steel are susceptible to rust, especially when there is heat and salt invovled. Headers get a lot hotter than many of the critical components in a nuc plant too.
Having said that I have no idea whether cheap SS headers will rust out faster than expensive ones.
To the OP, when you go turbo, do you plan on flipping the headers over or just plumbing in the turbos from underneath? Having a 240 it is hard for me to see how you will get one set of manifolds to suit both needs. Unfortunately I can't see your pics from work.
Having said that I have no idea whether cheap SS headers will rust out faster than expensive ones.
To the OP, when you go turbo, do you plan on flipping the headers over or just plumbing in the turbos from underneath? Having a 240 it is hard for me to see how you will get one set of manifolds to suit both needs. Unfortunately I can't see your pics from work.
as an update:
I ended up borrowing these from a friend, locally, and here is the result
This is the only position that they'll fit. The passenger side is quite close to the strut tower (1/4"), so I'm concerned that when the engine revs, its gonna rock and tap the tower. Plus, that's an immense amount of heat right next to my paint.
Options:
1) Make them work (fab, hack, cuss, scream, whatever is needed)
-$200 + fab of exhaust
2) Buy a set of mandrel bends in mild steel, MIG them together, and have a set that fits nice, but will need coated
-$100 +exhaust + coating
3) Same as #2, but in 304 SS, and I'd have to pay to have them TIG'd or I'd just MIG them.
-$200 + exhaust
4) Abandon hope, and buy the $500 coated set that is offered, and fits (with some mods)
-$500 coated + exhaust
I ended up borrowing these from a friend, locally, and here is the result
This is the only position that they'll fit. The passenger side is quite close to the strut tower (1/4"), so I'm concerned that when the engine revs, its gonna rock and tap the tower. Plus, that's an immense amount of heat right next to my paint.
Options:
1) Make them work (fab, hack, cuss, scream, whatever is needed)
-$200 + fab of exhaust
2) Buy a set of mandrel bends in mild steel, MIG them together, and have a set that fits nice, but will need coated
-$100 +exhaust + coating
3) Same as #2, but in 304 SS, and I'd have to pay to have them TIG'd or I'd just MIG them.
-$200 + exhaust
4) Abandon hope, and buy the $500 coated set that is offered, and fits (with some mods)
-$500 coated + exhaust
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 578
Likes: 4
From: REALITY
as an update:
I ended up borrowing these from a friend, locally, and here is the result
This is the only position that they'll fit. The passenger side is quite close to the strut tower (1/4"), so I'm concerned that when the engine revs, its gonna rock and tap the tower. Plus, that's an immense amount of heat right next to my paint.
Options:
1) Make them work (fab, hack, cuss, scream, whatever is needed)
-$200 + fab of exhaust
2) Buy a set of mandrel bends in mild steel, MIG them together, and have a set that fits nice, but will need coated
-$100 +exhaust + coating
3) Same as #2, but in 304 SS, and I'd have to pay to have them TIG'd or I'd just MIG them.
-$200 + exhaust
4) Abandon hope, and buy the $500 coated set that is offered, and fits (with some mods)
-$500 coated + exhaust
I ended up borrowing these from a friend, locally, and here is the result
This is the only position that they'll fit. The passenger side is quite close to the strut tower (1/4"), so I'm concerned that when the engine revs, its gonna rock and tap the tower. Plus, that's an immense amount of heat right next to my paint.
Options:
1) Make them work (fab, hack, cuss, scream, whatever is needed)
-$200 + fab of exhaust
2) Buy a set of mandrel bends in mild steel, MIG them together, and have a set that fits nice, but will need coated
-$100 +exhaust + coating
3) Same as #2, but in 304 SS, and I'd have to pay to have them TIG'd or I'd just MIG them.
-$200 + exhaust
4) Abandon hope, and buy the $500 coated set that is offered, and fits (with some mods)
-$500 coated + exhaust
Do you have some side shots of the passenger and drivers side?
Bozz