center link bumping pan
center link bumping pan I have a 69 chevelle that I swapped an lq4 into with the edelbrock adaptor plates and lh8 oil pan. Just put in all my steering components and my center link is bumping the pan, giving me 2.5 turns instead of 3. I am thinking about trying a few diff things but dont know what would be the best (easiest and least bumpsteeer or changes to steering):
1. flip the center link around and shorten one of the end links so they stick out instead of tucked in under the engine.
2. cut a little bit on the oil pan.
3. get a shorter pitman and drag link?
Thanks
1. flip the center link around and shorten one of the end links so they stick out instead of tucked in under the engine.
2. cut a little bit on the oil pan.
3. get a shorter pitman and drag link?
Thanks
Mod the oil pan.
Back in the early 90's, I put a big block chevy in a 66 A-body. Had the same problem. If I remember correctly, the factory oil pan (did not have one but had pics of one) had dimples to clear the tie-rod ends. I ended up using a torch and a ball peen hammer to dimple my pan. Easy enough to do on a steel pan. Not possible to do on an aluminum pan without removing it.
Back in the early 90's, I put a big block chevy in a 66 A-body. Had the same problem. If I remember correctly, the factory oil pan (did not have one but had pics of one) had dimples to clear the tie-rod ends. I ended up using a torch and a ball peen hammer to dimple my pan. Easy enough to do on a steel pan. Not possible to do on an aluminum pan without removing it.
had this problem..ended up putting 1/2 spacers between the engine mounts and adapter plates.. it did the trick on a 70 elcamino and 69 gto...(used some 1/4" ebay plates and prothane engine mounts)
I have not test fit my engine, but I found the 307 engine chevelle frame mounts are taller than most They also bolt to the tall/narrow motor mounts giving about 1/2" extra clearance.
I might try to lift the engine and use the spacers, did you just use some washers? I will also probably shave a little off the center link cause its fatter at the round parts where the end links bolt in.
we used washers for the test fit then made up some solid ones out of aluminum..
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You and use some 1/4" steel/alum plate or stock.. you don't have use washer or round stock. Using a 1/4" plates stock and traced the bolt pattern to the same as the x-member would help tie all of the bolt to together and take any movement out of the picture.
But, just be creative here. Nothing is set in stone on what you have to do! On my Chevelle, I made 1/4" adapter plates, EnergySuspension Tall/Narrow mounts without the load plate and modified Short/Wide stand (to fit the T/N mounts) to get my engine to the height it needed to be. On my Nova I made 1/2" alum plates, Short/wide mount and stand, then used some 1/8" strap meteal to space the frame stands up and oblonged the x-member holes upward 1/4" to get the engine to sit right and the bolts to all line up.
But, just be creative here. Nothing is set in stone on what you have to do! On my Chevelle, I made 1/4" adapter plates, EnergySuspension Tall/Narrow mounts without the load plate and modified Short/Wide stand (to fit the T/N mounts) to get my engine to the height it needed to be. On my Nova I made 1/2" alum plates, Short/wide mount and stand, then used some 1/8" strap meteal to space the frame stands up and oblonged the x-member holes upward 1/4" to get the engine to sit right and the bolts to all line up.
