08 ly6 in a 2000 Sonoma
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Thanks, Yep I got the vvt phaser timing tables off of TSP, On my own for the rest, Its getting there though but Im sure theres more on the table with a dyno tune but that will have to wait until next year, saving up for my vegas trip to sema.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Got the welder and cutoff wheel out and started working on the airbox, Need to make up some mounting tabs and do some trimming along with cut out the section for intake tube, then paint and waterline insulation around the top.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 734
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Well took the Caltrac bars off to soak them in PB and try to break them free so I can adjust the preload, needless to say I have wheel hop now. Leaving work going up a steep hill I drop from 3rd to 2nd and accelerate but not hard, Hit a bump which kicks it into wheelhop mode and BAM!
Man, that's a real bummer. Speaking from experience, those Caltrac style bars make a huge difference. Looks like you just need one side and a new U-joint. Did the d-shaft get beatup at all?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Those bare spots in the driveshaft are big dents so I need a new rearsection driveshaft, I have a 2 piece driveshaft.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 734
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Chromoly Steel, 1350 series ujoint. Picked up another rear section from a 1st gen since they dont have cardon joints but for some reason its about 2" too short. When put u where it should be and with the back wheels hanging theres about 3/4" of spline still showing off the front shaft? Its off a 92 ext cab, it worked before so Im not sure why this one is too short? The plan was to just slap a conversion joint on the end of it for the 3r/1350 match-up, but now I dont know, Might be ordering a pst DS sooner then later now although I'd have to wait until winter to do so since I have a vegas trip in the begining of Nov for SEMA then christmas and whatnot so I dont really want to be spending 600-900 on a DS at this time. Im going to measure the force it takes to rotate the current yoke then swap the yokes and match up the forces hopefully thatll keep everything happy since I also dont want to tear into the axle to replace the crush sleeve right now (when I do have to get into the axle Ill swap to 4.10 gears and an upgraded posi). The drive shaft replacment is pretty straight forward just when you replace the joints in the stock shafts its a major pia because theyre held in by nylon cord that have to be melted out.
Havent done much to the tune, WOT seems pretty strong the short trims are pretty stable and low, Start-up and cruising is what needs some work yet still surges at light throttle/load stuff especially when the engines cold and it stay colder longer with it being in the 50s here now. Fuel pump upgrade and hotwire kit along with elec cutouts are going in over the winter.
Havent done much to the tune, WOT seems pretty strong the short trims are pretty stable and low, Start-up and cruising is what needs some work yet still surges at light throttle/load stuff especially when the engines cold and it stay colder longer with it being in the 50s here now. Fuel pump upgrade and hotwire kit along with elec cutouts are going in over the winter.
