thought I was there...
Putting a ls1 into a 65 impala. I am frame off. I thought I had everything ready, but am not starting.
I was told before that one of those glow spark plug testers do not work with Ls engines.
Basically, I put the key to the on position. Check engine light goes on. I hear the fuel pump turn on for a few seconds. My fuel gauge goes to 60 PSI. I then crank and it does not start.
I know these engines are a little different than the old school ones where I would next pour gas down the carb and see if that started it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Should I head out and get an OBDII tester?
Thanks in advance.
http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Au...s/LIS50850.htm
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-3...ricegrabber_r1
Both are available at any auto parts store. At least you could check for spark and injector firing.
The spark tester I have is this
http://www.harborfreight.com/inline-...cker-4424.html
this is basically a glow type of tester.
I was told a while back by someone here that these ls engines have higher compression and less spark so these testers may not work.
Before I had the fuel hooked up and ECM programmed, I put some starting fluid down the intake and the engine ran for a few seconds. This was a few months ago.
Thanks for the leads.
Besides a number of obvious things that I just forgot about in my excitement, like plug wires (duh), and installing the fuel pump relay, my big issue was my power to all the fuel injection components was dropping out when the ignition was in the start position.
Thought I checked that ten times, but somehow I ended up not powering the main injection relay from the right source in the car. Fixed that and it started right up, after sitting for over a year, and just purrs with open exhaust.
Based on my limited experience, when you have it right, it'll run. There was no coaksing it to run like previous carbed motors where you're feathering the throttle, and playing with ignition timing. With these motors its right or it's not, there doesn't seem to be anything in between.
You have two high probabilities:
Option 1 is you don't have power to something like coils or injectors.
Option 2 is making sure you have ALL the sensors plugged in, specifically the crank and cam sensors. Cam sensor is in the block behind the intake on Gen III engines and on the front behind the water pump on Gen IV's. You won't have to take the intake off to get to the cam sensor but it may be tight depending on firewall clearance. The crank sensor is behind the starter.
Since you have said you previously got the car to start with starter fluid, why not try a spray of gas in the intake? If the car starts, it is either the injectors are plugged (usually a good seafoam will cure) or the computer is not firing the injectors. I don't think it is the latter because you said the car has previously started. As another poster said, when all the ingredients are there, these engines start up and run great.
Good Luck.
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I also borrowed one of those noid light setups. I removed one of the injectors on each side and cranked. The light didnt turn on for either side.
Back to the wiring harness to see if I have power to the correct parts.
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I also borrowed one of those noid light setups. I removed one of the injectors on each side and cranked. The light didnt turn on for either side.
Back to the wiring harness to see if I have power to the correct parts.
I have checked it both in the on and cranking position. In the on position Pin A has 12V and when cranking there are 10.5V.
I also disconnected the wires at several coils. All of the pink wires had voltage with key on.
Last edited by leon phelps; Feb 15, 2011 at 07:55 PM. Reason: more info
I grounded out C220 pin H also. I am frame off and have no brake switch. This is the neutral safety switch.
I have C220 C+D grounded together too. This is supposed to power the torque converter clutch.
Still no noid lights on injectors.
thanks again for trying. They claim 4 wires to connect and the engine will start.


