Hello,

Putting a ls1 into a 65 impala. I am frame off. I thought I had everything ready, but am not starting.

I was told before that one of those glow spark plug testers do not work with Ls engines.

Basically, I put the key to the on position. Check engine light goes on. I hear the fuel pump turn on for a few seconds. My fuel gauge goes to 60 PSI. I then crank and it does not start.

I know these engines are a little different than the old school ones where I would next pour gas down the carb and see if that started it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Should I head out and get an OBDII tester?

Thanks in advance.

 

Noid lights are relatively cheap, to see if the injectors are firing, too. I don't know why a cheap ignition tester that goes in the place of a spark plugs and has a clip that grounds somewhere wouldn't work. Like this:

http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Au...s/LIS50850.htm

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-3...ricegrabber_r1

Both are available at any auto parts store. At least you could check for spark and injector firing.

 

Do you have VATS turned off in your ecu?

 

Vats was supposedly tuned out when ECM was done.

The spark tester I have is this

http://www.harborfreight.com/inline-...cker-4424.html

this is basically a glow type of tester.

I was told a while back by someone here that these ls engines have higher compression and less spark so these testers may not work.

Before I had the fuel hooked up and ECM programmed, I put some starting fluid down the intake and the engine ran for a few seconds. This was a few months ago.

Thanks for the leads.

 

I just started my project car this past weekend.
Besides a number of obvious things that I just forgot about in my excitement, like plug wires (duh), and installing the fuel pump relay, my big issue was my power to all the fuel injection components was dropping out when the ignition was in the start position.

Thought I checked that ten times, but somehow I ended up not powering the main injection relay from the right source in the car. Fixed that and it started right up, after sitting for over a year, and just purrs with open exhaust.

Based on my limited experience, when you have it right, it'll run. There was no coaksing it to run like previous carbed motors where you're feathering the throttle, and playing with ignition timing. With these motors its right or it's not, there doesn't seem to be anything in between.

 

Correct.

You have two high probabilities:

Option 1 is you don't have power to something like coils or injectors.

Option 2 is making sure you have ALL the sensors plugged in, specifically the crank and cam sensors. Cam sensor is in the block behind the intake on Gen III engines and on the front behind the water pump on Gen IV's. You won't have to take the intake off to get to the cam sensor but it may be tight depending on firewall clearance. The crank sensor is behind the starter.

 

Your problem sounds a lot like one I had. You stated that before you sent off the computer, you shot some starting fluid in the intake and it started right up. My engine had sat for a while, but no start. First I verified fuel pressure - you have done that. Next I verified the injectors were firing (I used a diode Injector light) - you have not done this. My light said the injectors were firing. Next I checked a plug - just took a plug out of the head and grounded it to the engine while my son hit the starter - the plug fired. I was still scratching my head about what was wrong when I decided to use a windex bottle that I put a little gas in and sprayed it into the intake with the butterfly open. I then attempted to crank the car - I fired right up and ran for a second or two. Sprayed more gas - car cranked. I had another set of injectors from a different swap. Put them on the engine and hit the starter. The car cranked right up and ran great!

Since you have said you previously got the car to start with starter fluid, why not try a spray of gas in the intake? If the car starts, it is either the injectors are plugged (usually a good seafoam will cure) or the computer is not firing the injectors. I don't think it is the latter because you said the car has previously started. As another poster said, when all the ingredients are there, these engines start up and run great.

Good Luck.

 

I borrowed an OBD II reader from a friend. Came back with no codes.

I also borrowed one of those noid light setups. I removed one of the injectors on each side and cranked. The light didnt turn on for either side.

Back to the wiring harness to see if I have power to the correct parts.

 

like I said, not only power when not turning over, but also when turning over in the start position of the ign switch.

 

I have a wire from the starter going to a relay that when powered on, will send the 12v to the pin A on connector C100.

I have checked it both in the on and cranking position. In the on position Pin A has 12V and when cranking there are 10.5V.

 

I also forgot to add that I tried pouring some gas down the throttle body. Did nothing to help.

I also disconnected the wires at several coils. All of the pink wires had voltage with key on.

 

I went over all of my wires again. I did forget one ground C101 H.

I grounded out C220 pin H also. I am frame off and have no brake switch. This is the neutral safety switch.

I have C220 C+D grounded together too. This is supposed to power the torque converter clutch.

Still no noid lights on injectors.

 

All I can add is check your fuse box. I traced wires for 2
Hours before I realized I left fuses out of
My fuse Block which I had purchased,

 

Do you have 12v at the coils when cranking?

 

yes


and

All I can add is check your fuse box. I traced wires for 2
Hours before I realized I left fuses out of
My fuse Block which I had purchased,

yes fuses are there.

 

Do you have ground for the injectors? Crank trigger signal?

 

thanks for the suggestions. gave up earlier in the day and ordered a wiring harness from psi. expect to see it tomorrow.

thanks again for trying. They claim 4 wires to connect and the engine will start.

 

Well good luck with the harness. I hate to hear people having troubles like this did you try swapping ecus with anyone?

 

No, I had it programmed. I also used a scanner and it came back no codes.