AArrgh! Water--lots of water--in the oil pan of my 3k junkyard L96. What next?
03-01-2011, 05:42 PM
#21
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I can understand the hassle in sending the engine back.
I would call JY and see if they'll honor the warranty upon tear down.
Like stated, I'd remove the heads and pan. At least pull the rod caps and put in arp bolts. Inspect the rod bearings at this time.
I would call JY and see if they'll honor the warranty upon tear down.
Like stated, I'd remove the heads and pan. At least pull the rod caps and put in arp bolts. Inspect the rod bearings at this time.
03-01-2011, 06:17 PM
#23
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Hi,the above post are correct..........don't beat yourself down ,we learn from mistakes we make in life.. I wish you the best and pray that things workout
to your benefit...........CAPTAIN JIM
03-01-2011, 06:23 PM
#24
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Like Prince in that Kiss video with the azz out chaps....lol
Bozz
03-01-2011, 06:45 PM
#25
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Yea don't tear anything down!!!!!! I did and almost got screwed out of the warranty. Luckily i got it through a guy i bought my tranny from, and he exclusively used LKQ and convinced the guy to take it back even tho i took the heads off.
03-01-2011, 07:16 PM
#26
Return It Did anyone miss the part about it being a 3K mile motor out of a 2010 vehicle? How dirty could it be? Meaning why does it need pressure washing? The majority of junkyards are crooks, sounds like to me it sat outside in the weather with the oil fill cap missing or damaged from the accident and it rained or snowed and got into the engine.
03-01-2011, 07:53 PM
#27
I think they pressure wash everything as a matter of course. The rust you saw on the valve spring is probably from sitting outside w/no cap for months, at least a good part of this winter.
Anyhow, I was still open to keeping but I checked out the internals, and as you can see, the open air was not kind--rust on crank throw weights and rod ends. Cam sparkled clean, bores that I can see were real nice other than a few pistons somehow has the sludgy oil water in them. front timing chain all looks nice.
Unfortunately the yard doesn't have any other engines like this; they list one 2008 van LY6 w/unk mileage. This is I80 auto parts in Gary In; found on car parts.com.
I was hoping to keep cuz I thought I got a screaming deal; the entire engine, accessories, wiring and computer shipped to my door for $2200, for a 3000 mile motor. I don't think I could match that. But I certainly can't use as is (or don't think I want to). Don't know whether I should offer to keep w/a sizeable amount of cash back to have everything taken apart and professionally cleaned and reassembled. Any thoughts as to what a fair price would be to get this back in great shape? Might even go ahead w/the Mast cam upgrade that I was avoiding.
Or just start looking again.
Anyhow, I was still open to keeping but I checked out the internals, and as you can see, the open air was not kind--rust on crank throw weights and rod ends. Cam sparkled clean, bores that I can see were real nice other than a few pistons somehow has the sludgy oil water in them. front timing chain all looks nice.
Unfortunately the yard doesn't have any other engines like this; they list one 2008 van LY6 w/unk mileage. This is I80 auto parts in Gary In; found on car parts.com.
I was hoping to keep cuz I thought I got a screaming deal; the entire engine, accessories, wiring and computer shipped to my door for $2200, for a 3000 mile motor. I don't think I could match that. But I certainly can't use as is (or don't think I want to). Don't know whether I should offer to keep w/a sizeable amount of cash back to have everything taken apart and professionally cleaned and reassembled. Any thoughts as to what a fair price would be to get this back in great shape? Might even go ahead w/the Mast cam upgrade that I was avoiding.
Or just start looking again.
03-01-2011, 08:08 PM
#28
Wondering...maybe I should also offer for them to get another yard to send me a low mileage engine that has been through a fire and I keep everything that I pulled off. They might be able to get one for a song and send it my way and then take two to make one. What do you think?
03-01-2011, 09:00 PM
#29
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I would personally clean the pan out
fill it up with oil and run it for 30-60 minutes
do an oil change and call it good
see if you can't get a small reimbursment for your troubles
fill it up with oil and run it for 30-60 minutes
do an oil change and call it good
see if you can't get a small reimbursment for your troubles
03-01-2011, 11:16 PM
#30
Sounds like you really want to keep it; ttherefore if the piston walls and pistons look good I wound pull the crank and heads and have them hot tanked to remove the rust. Leave the pistons in the bores unless you want to re-ring the block. IMO it doesn't look that bad just clean it up, check the bearings and the other major stuff, then put it back together and run it.
03-02-2011, 12:05 AM
#31
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If you aren't using the old pan just don't even worry about it. Scotch brite the crank weights where they show surface rust, same thing with the rods. If you really want pull each rod cap off and spin it and look at the bearings and make sure no water got inside there.
03-02-2011, 04:48 AM
#32
IF I did keep it, there is the rust on the one valve spring and the valve below it has some rust on the underside (seen in my last post). Does that need to be addressed (especially the valve; can probably get the spring cleaned)?
Also, I did notice some rust on the lower part of the rear piston where the crank had some rust. Looks like the piston was down low, and that there is no rust where rings travel. I've turned the engine a bit in removing flexplate and stuff so its up higher now.
Also, I did notice some rust on the lower part of the rear piston where the crank had some rust. Looks like the piston was down low, and that there is no rust where rings travel. I've turned the engine a bit in removing flexplate and stuff so its up higher now.
Last edited by Goldhawg; 03-02-2011 at 06:14 AM. Reason: added pic
03-02-2011, 06:55 AM
#33
Even if they hadanother one sitting in their yard, they wouldn't tell you about it....As far as they are concerned it's a done deal......Too bad you are getting a compromised engine that you paid good money for............I'm sure if you would have know what you were getting up front you wouldn't have taken a chance on it.........Try and get your money back.......I've had very good luck dealing with Cleveland-Pick-A-Parts..........
Ken
Ken
03-02-2011, 10:51 AM
#35
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I would now send the pictures to the JY and ask THEM how they want to honor their warranty. I'd lobby for a big discount and have it rebuilt.
It appears the is a clear horizontal line on the counterbalance which is deeper than the mains.
It appears the is a clear horizontal line on the counterbalance which is deeper than the mains.
03-02-2011, 10:54 AM
#36
I don't see a lot to be worried about. I would blow out the cylinders to make sure all the water is out, do a little Scotchbright on the bores and wipe them down with oil, make sure the cam lobes and clean, and call it good. I doubt much got into the journals/bearings, but you could prelube the engine to force any water out as a precaution.
03-02-2011, 11:00 AM
#37
Here is their response...not too promising.
Hi, and thanks for sending me the photos. It appears that this is due to the weathter and moisture caused a little bit of rust. This vehicle was in a front end collision as in the photos you saw so it is very possible some snow and moisture got under the hood. But it also appears that 90% of it would rub right off, especially around the crank. However this motor did come out of a 2010 Silverado 2500 with only 3k miles and the vehicle was only here as of 12/16/10. We feel we gave you a great deal on this engine and added a bunch of parts at no charge. In my opinion the motor is as close to brand new as you can find without actually buying brand new and paying brand new price. We are confident that this motor is still fully functional and this is purely cosmetic and can certainly resell it in its current state. But we also understand if you want to try to find a different engine that meets your expectations. We can offer you a $75 refund via paypal for your time in cleaning off the rust. If you don't feel comfortable using I will gladly accept you returning it and refund you in full via PayPal as long as its returned within the 30 days and all the pieces we sent are returned, not just the engine. Please let me know how you want to proceed. Thanks and sorry for any inconvenience this has caused you.
Regards,
I-80 Auto Parts
Hi, and thanks for sending me the photos. It appears that this is due to the weathter and moisture caused a little bit of rust. This vehicle was in a front end collision as in the photos you saw so it is very possible some snow and moisture got under the hood. But it also appears that 90% of it would rub right off, especially around the crank. However this motor did come out of a 2010 Silverado 2500 with only 3k miles and the vehicle was only here as of 12/16/10. We feel we gave you a great deal on this engine and added a bunch of parts at no charge. In my opinion the motor is as close to brand new as you can find without actually buying brand new and paying brand new price. We are confident that this motor is still fully functional and this is purely cosmetic and can certainly resell it in its current state. But we also understand if you want to try to find a different engine that meets your expectations. We can offer you a $75 refund via paypal for your time in cleaning off the rust. If you don't feel comfortable using I will gladly accept you returning it and refund you in full via PayPal as long as its returned within the 30 days and all the pieces we sent are returned, not just the engine. Please let me know how you want to proceed. Thanks and sorry for any inconvenience this has caused you.
Regards,
I-80 Auto Parts
03-02-2011, 11:07 AM
#38
I have to say, part of the calculus is obviously the risk of anything really detrimental vs the reality of duplicating this from another vendor has previously been about $1k or more higher...
So maybe I just clean it up. Got some good advice from an engineer friend on how to remove the rust.
"When removing rust from the crank, it is easy to create particle contamination that will be worse than the rust. Don’t use Scotch-Brite like someone on the chat room suggested - instant contamination! I’d use a rag or Q-tips saturated with a weak phosphoric acid solution. Metal Prep or something similar used for preparing sheet metal for painting will work. I get bottles of phosphoric acid from the hardware store paint department; they call it Metal Etch. Read and follow the label directions. Just dampen the surface, let it sit a few minutes, and wipe it off while still wet with a clean dry rag. You will be surprised how fast the phosphoric acid eats up fresh surface rust. Clean a small area at a time. Use a rag dampened with WD-40 to wipe the freshly cleaned and dried area before you go to the next area. You can use his method on the bottom of the cylinder bore that has surface rust, and the connecting rods. After the engine block is assembled, you can use the acid and a stainless steel toothbrush to clean up the outside of the block before you paint it."
03-02-2011, 11:21 AM
#39
I don't see a lot to be worried about. I would blow out the cylinders to make sure all the water is out, do a little Scotchbright on the bores and wipe them down with oil, make sure the cam lobes and clean, and call it good. I doubt much got into the journals/bearings, but you could prelube the engine to force any water out as a precaution.
How do you prelube these engines? cuz I definitely want to put new oil in soon if I keep it after cleaning up the rust and circulate everywhere and then drain it and remove the pan.
Thx!
03-02-2011, 12:44 PM
#40
There is a port on the driver's side of the block very close to the timing cover that feeds into the oil galleys. You can use an oil tank or pump to drive oil into that feed. Alternatively you can pump oil into the port for the oil pressure sender.
From this thread: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=156079
For your engine, I wouldn't crank it until you've put some fresh oil through it.
From this thread: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=156079
NAPA sells an oil priming tank that works great on any engines that have oil pumps on the front of the crankshaft, It is a very simple tank that you fill with 5 qts of oil (or however much your engine holds) then you hook it up to the port where the oil pressure sending unit goes, put about 50lbs of air pressure on it with a compressor and open the valve. It forces the oil throughout the engine and you are done.
Last edited by -TheBandit-; 03-02-2011 at 12:50 PM.