steam vents?
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
From: Alamogordo, NM
I researched this briefly and it seems I remember reading that the water pump is also another location. I don't know if it's on the suction or discharge side.
I'm trying to keep the engine compartment as clean as possible and a hose to the water pump would be less clutter than to the radiator.
I'm trying to keep the engine compartment as clean as possible and a hose to the water pump would be less clutter than to the radiator.
Here is what I did. The top of the water pump is higher that the exit for the steam vents so air will bleed out. I use a 11/32" drill and a 1/8" pipe tap. I bought the fitting from Oreillys auto in their brake fitting section behind the counter. Its a 1/8" to 3/16" hose fitting. I run the tap in a couple of times a little deeper each time until I got the right height from the fitting so it wouldnt interfere with the throttle body. Hope this helps!!!
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[/IMG] Thanks a lot guys. I am using an LS6 in a Brunton Stalker, so i flip the intake around backwards so i have no problem with TB. Does it have to go up from that source to vent the air? Or will the thermostat housing be ok? I would like to be able to drill and tap without worrying about metal flakes. Or will the overflow tank work? I am little confused about the steam ports operation on the motor.
Scott
Scott
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Go for it, Scott.
the 4 ports on the front/rear of the heads are for heated coolant to leave the heads; so any of those places will be fine. I would have done the tstat housing for the same reasons (ease of tapping/cleaning/etc) but my radiator has the inlet for it stock (some wip shots in my ta thread in my sig)
definitely post some pics as you go along, one of my friends/mentors did a variant of a stalker and its one of my favorites
the 4 ports on the front/rear of the heads are for heated coolant to leave the heads; so any of those places will be fine. I would have done the tstat housing for the same reasons (ease of tapping/cleaning/etc) but my radiator has the inlet for it stock (some wip shots in my ta thread in my sig)
definitely post some pics as you go along, one of my friends/mentors did a variant of a stalker and its one of my favorites
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks a lot guys. I am using an LS6 in a Brunton Stalker, so i flip the intake around backwards so i have no problem with TB. Does it have to go up from that source to vent the air? Or will the thermostat housing be ok? I would like to be able to drill and tap without worrying about metal flakes. Or will the overflow tank work? I am little confused about the steam ports operation on the motor.
Scott
Scott
I am thinking that I will tap the thermostat housing and when i fill the cooling system to make sure I bleed of the lines. I have been taking lots of photos. I will post them up soon. thanks again
Same here. My engine sits at a negative 2 degrees. I blocked off the rear ports and ran the vents on the front ports. Didn't tap my WP cause I had an inlet on my radiator for the line.. 
Tails
Tails
TECH Resident
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 792
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
I would avoid venting into the thermostat housing, as you will be partially short-circuiting the cooling system by routing hot water back into the motor (thermostat on an LS1 is on the suction side). Venting into the waterpump outlet, or like a stock system would be the most desireable, IMO.
Andy1
Andy1
Here's what I did in somewhat vivid detail:
Originally Posted by 1970camaroRS
Next is the fun part. Figuring out how to bleed air and vent steam into/out of the cooling system. There is a high point in the cooling system now near the bend of the hose right here:
It will trap air and hurt cooling flow through the engine. Turns out I need a high point in the cooling system to run a line from the steam tubes in the cylinder heads to. And I used this to make that happen.
It's from Jags That Run. It has an inlet/outlet size of 1-5/16", a bleed valve and a barb fitting for the 1/4" ID hose from the steam vent. I cut the hose where I wanted the splice to be made and installed one half.
Then the other half and routed the steam vent line.
Doesn't look half as frankensteined as I thought it would. Plus it will be functional.
It will trap air and hurt cooling flow through the engine. Turns out I need a high point in the cooling system to run a line from the steam tubes in the cylinder heads to. And I used this to make that happen.
It's from Jags That Run. It has an inlet/outlet size of 1-5/16", a bleed valve and a barb fitting for the 1/4" ID hose from the steam vent. I cut the hose where I wanted the splice to be made and installed one half.
Then the other half and routed the steam vent line.
Doesn't look half as frankensteined as I thought it would. Plus it will be functional.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 34
Likes: 1
I appreciate you showing the installation of our part, as well as the comment about its appearance under the hood.
We designed the part as small as possible because of the limited amount of space with many engine swaps.
Also, we make these parts inhouse, with our own equipment (CNC lathe and CNC vertical machining center). We use thread gages to verify the npt threads are the correct depth.
There are similar products sold on ebay (and made in China), but they are bulkier, and the npt threads do not meet the gage standards.
Furthermore, when you factor in that the parts on ebay don't include the fittings, our part is less costly to purchase. I mention this because there have been other threads where people purchased something on ebay because of the perceived lower cost.
We designed the part as small as possible because of the limited amount of space with many engine swaps.
Also, we make these parts inhouse, with our own equipment (CNC lathe and CNC vertical machining center). We use thread gages to verify the npt threads are the correct depth.
There are similar products sold on ebay (and made in China), but they are bulkier, and the npt threads do not meet the gage standards.
Furthermore, when you factor in that the parts on ebay don't include the fittings, our part is less costly to purchase. I mention this because there have been other threads where people purchased something on ebay because of the perceived lower cost.
