the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I've always put them in to where there is a little pressure required to hold it inplace before bolting up. No resistance means the seal is too small and stretched. If it doesn't fit the hole then it's too big..as in it's squeezing out the sides.

That's usually how I check it.

magntik

so I was able to remove the bolts in the motor mounts and trans mount and raise the engine far enough to pull the pan, and pick up.

I had the blue o ring on the pick up. I couldn't tell if it was pinched and it looks ok now that its out.

Gonna go to the dealership tomorrow and get a red one.

Glad I ended up having to pull the pan because the Seafoam broke down and released some nasty crap to the bottom of the pan.
And I was able to get it out. Looked like some got sucked into the pickup so that could be some of my issue. we'll see after I get it back together.

Thanks for all the input.

Jeremy

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

If there's crap sucked into the pump, it would be a good idea to clean it out, and not just rely on the o'ring being the problem.....

rp0029

iTrader: (1)

How exactly is this ring supposed to sit in the pump? I put my autokraft pan's pickup ring into the pump and then put the pickup in after. I tried putting the ring on over the pickup and it wouldn't fit - the ring was too big and I didn't want to force it. Should I remove the pan and do it again?

Also, what ring for a 2006 lq4 from a silverado?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I put a CTS-V oil pan (blue seal) on a 2005 LM7 engine (red seal). What was explained to me is that early truck motors had the thinner blue seal that was being pinched at factory installation. The later truck motors had a groove around the seal seating area on the tube and used a thicker red seal to compensate for that.
The CTS-V oil tube didn't have the groove, so I used the thinner blue. Not sure which style the Retro oil pickup tube used.

Jeff Smith

iTrader: (44)

I agree with ^^^^^. I would check on o-ring and replace new..

magntik

So when I went to the Dealership on Monday to get a new o-ring, the plan was to buy both a red and the blue and compare it to what I took out. And test fit each.

Well the Parts guy said they don't carry the blue one, he could get it, but he did have plenty of red ones.
Says that the practice there was to put the thicker red o-ring in EVERY vehicle.
Says the techs are having a lot better luck and few issues by using the red. So they quit stocking the blue.

So I took his word for it, a tech happen to come by and the parts guy stopped him and we talked for a few minutes.
Super helpful.

He recommended I use oil or vasoline to lube the o ring real well, and get this told me to put it on the tube and put the tube in the oil pump, and take it out, the put it back in carefully. Said I should almost feel a "pop" if everything fits together right. said the second time I put it in the pump should go in smoothly. He also said to tighten the bolt completely at the pump before tightening the nut at the other end, so less of a chance to shift.

I did exactly as he said, and damn if he wasn't right.

Put it all back together and have 26psi @ idle and over 40psi cruising.

My Retro pan came with a blue one. guessing it's the GM one?? wasn't able to verify. The red one fit a lot better and was obviously thicker.

rp0029

iTrader: (1)

So does the o ring go up in the pump or at the base of the tube when in the pump?

46Coupe

iTrader: (5)

o-ring slides onto the pickup tube and then insert the pickup tube carefully into the pump and toque the bolt properly.

rp0029

iTrader: (1)

so I was test fitting my lq4 in my 68 camaro and I really didn't want to pull the pan. I had installed the oil pump pickup by putting the o ring in the pump and installing the tube and read on this post what I did was wrong. I'm sure glad I pulled that pan. My o ring was totally shredded:


Too bad the stealership was closed. I take it the o ring sits on the tube line this and then you pop it into the engine?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Yup..

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

Nice job, and good info on the o-ring, I don't know what I used but it had good resistance going in!! hopefully it will work,

ErkDog

Thanks guys! I am having similar issue with my '06 Silverado 5.3L - did a head/cam swap and now valve train klanks like a can of marbles. Tried almost everything. Came across this article and some others recommending replacing the o-ring. I sure hope this works because I am out of ideas to get this thing to quite down - and out of money!

Here's what I upgraded to:
PRC stage 2.5 5.3L heads (dual springs!)
TSP Torquer v2 cam
Comp Cams OE roller lifters
Comp Cams pushrods (Comp PR length checker tool gave me a 7.375 w/ .05 preload)
Nelson Performance Tune

After starting it up for the first time, it rattled really bad.

So, here's what I did to remedy the problem:
Thought maybe my measurement was off so tried different length pushrods.
7.375, 7.400, 7.425, 7.450 and nothing helped.
Remeasured again and still get 7.375 so put them back in.
Thought maybe I had a bad lifter or two so I replaced the lifters.
Out of money. Out of patience. Out of time (wife wants the garage back!).

Last ditch effort:
Pay a shop to replace the o-ring with a new red o-ring.
Taking it in tomorrow morning. Will let y'all know how it goes.

ErkDog

Got my truck back and it sounds much better with the new o-ring but there's still a noticeable tick. Sowing machine? No, different sound. Like a bad lifter or a lose rocker. The only thing left is to swap out the oil pump for a high pressure one - and that is a big job for me. The ticking is tolerable for now... until the wife lets me back into the garage again :S I'll plan on upgrading(downgrading?) my PRC heads with PAC Single Beehive valve springs - they will still handle my .595/.598 lift and not be too demanding on my lifters and oil pump. A relatively inexpensive job I can do myself.

Thanks guys for all the info on this thread!!

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Since I haven't put mine in, thought you all might like pics to see. The truck one is on the left in the pics, the CTS-V on the right. You can definitely see the indentation for the truck necessitating the fatter o-ring. But the red one does fit on the CTS-V pickup; think I'll use it based on the other post above and feedback from the dealership.

patooyee

iTrader: (1)

Any long-term reports on the success off the red o-ring on the tube meant for the blue one?