Liked the idea of dual flash modes. Dont think the 2.5k rev limit will go trough the strikt "biltilsynet". But if I got some kind of mode with delay timing on upper revs combined with a rev limit a litle more normal(like 5K, maybe).
The exhaust gas measurement, they only do at idle.

Is it some of the suppliers of PCM`s that have a dual mode and still you can flash it yourself. Not that I is so smartass that I want to to the tune myself, but to get the right hp, I probably need to try a real amount of tryes

AR

 

You wouldn't keep it detuned....just have it be all shoddy for the registration.

You can rev limit it, or tune it to run safe but not effective....HP tuners is your solution here IMO.

 

Too bad you didn't get a later model engine with the cylinder deactivation. That would've been the easiest route in my opinion.

 

I can only assume that HP is measured at the wheels correct?


Fortunately the Jeep isn't exactly the most efficient drivetrain... a stock 4.0L is rated at about 190hp... but put down about 140hp at the wheels.

Here is a thread I found regarding people looking for more HP... but a few hints at fudging the numbers can be found within... like slightly lower tire pressure, etc.

http://www.tricktuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=226


I have an 03 TJ with D60/D70 w/ 5.86 gears and 40" tires with stock 4.0... I may just have to get it dyno'd for the hell of it to see how much power is really lost to the wheels.



Depending on what is allowed, you could probably put larger, heavier tires on it to kill a lot of HP at the wheels

 

Is it the power yours has, or the power that type of vehicle had? Because they came with 6 cyl, and maybe V8s.

Make sure they know what they're talking about. Ask other people in Norway.

Rev limit it with a block of wood under the gas pedal, or a screw on the throttle body.

 

these only came with 6 or 4 cyl. but the stop screw sure would be easier then anything else.

 

I have the 4cyl one, but I can use the HP from the 6cyl one, as the rest is simular. They are of course talking about HP at the crank, not at the wheels
Have to ask about how they want it to get this swap road legal, stopscrew is of course the easyest way, but I doubt the aprowe it that easy.

The engine I have buyed is finaly arrived in my garage now, looks nice and ok after the long fraight overseas. Some small damages is there, as the broken lamda and a crack inn the powersteeringpumps pulleys. The orgin PCM probably got some kind of immobilizer? How to remove this cheapest, mybe I only goe with the orgin PCM to the car is ready for getting road legal.

AR

 

The pcm has VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft Sytem) that will only allow the engine to run for 10-15 seconds and then shut down. It needs to be tuned out using a tuning software or a mailorder tune.

 

is he driving a diesel or what??

 

just reduce timing its that simple.... go into the temp over heat tables (most gms have this) and change it to be active at 160 degrees but change the table so it only pulls a small amount of timing other wise it wont move and will look a bit fishy) then change it back once your done.


I looked at efilive I see the engine protection menu has the thresholds to set this active then under the spark menu _---> engine protection menu ... you can adjust this until the power reduced is the amount you want. (this will take some playing with the table to get the hp up to a respectable amount)

 

Actualy its EFIlive I have bought from a swedish firm, so this was a good tips. Have to get some programer anyway, to do the vats and **** up the timing
Havent found time to do much yet, havent even looked at the EFIlive program.
Tanks for the tips, lately but true

AR

 

This is the saddest thing I've ever heard

 

This: http://www.tunedbyfrost.com/products_df01.htm

 

Defintely get ahold of frost, a dual tuned PCM is the only way to change hp on the fly from the interior of the car