No clutch in Chevelle
No clutch in Chevelle Hey guys just got my swap runnin in my 71 Chevelle, its a lq4/t56. Most everything seems ok, still some small bugs to work out. The biggest of which is I have absolutely no clutch. I am runnin f-body pedals with a RAM adjustable master and a spec 3 clutch. The slave is the one that came with the trans (it didn't look that old) so I don't know the pedigree on it.
I know that I am getting a full stroke on the master, I adjusted it out til I bottomed out the master and then backed it off to where it hit the stop on the pedals so that I don't blow out the master. It seems to be bled pretty good I'm not getting any air out of the slave.
So here is the problems 1: I have absolutely no clutch disengagement 2: there is no "feel" at the pedal
I am leaning toward the slave but any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kurt.
I know that I am getting a full stroke on the master, I adjusted it out til I bottomed out the master and then backed it off to where it hit the stop on the pedals so that I don't blow out the master. It seems to be bled pretty good I'm not getting any air out of the slave.
So here is the problems 1: I have absolutely no clutch disengagement 2: there is no "feel" at the pedal
I am leaning toward the slave but any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kurt.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 4
From: Maryland
Either the master or slave is no good or there is still air in the system. I am thinking the latter. The only way I have found to get all of the air out of the system is crack the bleeder and then have someone slowly depress the clutch pedal closing the bleeder before the end of the stroke. Takes some time but it's fool proof.
Vacuum bleeders WILL NOT WORK!
Vacuum bleeders WILL NOT WORK!
Either the master or slave is no good or there is still air in the system. I am thinking the latter. The only way I have found to get all of the air out of the system is crack the bleeder and then have someone slowly depress the clutch pedal closing the bleeder before the end of the stroke. Takes some time but it's fool proof.
If you don't get the clutch bled properly you WILL have all sorts of problems. If you don't believe me, look for the "pedal sticking to the floor at WOT" (or 4000 and up) threads in the transmission section. I bleed the clutch and replace the fluid on a regular basis and never have problems - all on stock hydraulics. I have some Corvette guys that got me in the habit and they never have problems either. Hope this helps.
Ok I got it thanks guys. Apparently I was being a *****. Not wanting to mess anything up what I thought was the end of the master travel was apparently just the beginning. Surprisingly I did have all the air out though. I have a pretty unique blender system in the old girl.
