New swap runs way too hot!
06-01-2011, 01:02 AM
#21
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Are you sure you have the correct thermostat ? By correct I mean the one that matches your water pump. The LSX cooling system is very different from the 'ol smallblock chevy design. Due to the positioning of the internal bypass and the thermostat being in the cold radiator water return path, If the thermostat is not right it will never open right. There are some differences between ealry/late water pumps and thermostats.
I had this problem due to swapping water necks to make hoses fit.
I had this problem due to swapping water necks to make hoses fit.
06-01-2011, 07:12 AM
#22
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Does this swap have A/C?
I had read about a year ago that if you used a heater valve without some sort of bypass that some people were seeing this issue. If that is the case, some people have solved it with adding a T before the valve that allows flow back to the heater core return hose from the feed hose.
I had read about a year ago that if you used a heater valve without some sort of bypass that some people were seeing this issue. If that is the case, some people have solved it with adding a T before the valve that allows flow back to the heater core return hose from the feed hose.
06-01-2011, 09:18 PM
#23
Does this swap have A/C?
I had read about a year ago that if you used a heater valve without some sort of bypass that some people were seeing this issue. If that is the case, some people have solved it with adding a T before the valve that allows flow back to the heater core return hose from the feed hose.
I had read about a year ago that if you used a heater valve without some sort of bypass that some people were seeing this issue. If that is the case, some people have solved it with adding a T before the valve that allows flow back to the heater core return hose from the feed hose.
06-01-2011, 09:26 PM
#24
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Funny you should ask that...yes, I was having it painted (now done) and it was worse. Having the hood on actually helps to force the air through the radiator.
LOL....I gotta agree! Now, If I could only find a pill to fix that!
Seriously though, I just dropped off the turbo and piping at the ceramic coater's place....I'll know in 2 weeks. I'm going to vacuum-bleed the system upon reassembly, so now it's just waiting time.
LOL....I gotta agree! Now, If I could only find a pill to fix that!
Seriously though, I just dropped off the turbo and piping at the ceramic coater's place....I'll know in 2 weeks. I'm going to vacuum-bleed the system upon reassembly, so now it's just waiting time.
06-21-2011, 01:04 PM
#26
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Well, finally got it all back together.....it STILL runs too hot. 
I've tried pulling a vacuum on the hose from the steam vents, and got a bit of air out that way. I should also mention that I'm using a vent tube setup that connects to ALL 4 of the steam ports on the heads....could this be a problem somehow?
I also tried jacking one side of the car up while it's running....and then the other side...and got a little more air out that way. I ran the car at a fast idle (1500 rpm) for 10 minutes, and got a little more air out that way. I also "burped" the system by pulling the lever on the radiator cap, and watching a few bubbles burp into the recovery tank. It will sometimes sit at 170*/180* for a while at idle...then climb back up to 210* and stay there for a while....then start to drop back down a bit. The fans are constantly on.
I'm relatively certain that I'm dealing with air in the system, but have NEVER had this much trouble bleeding a system. I suppose that it's possible that SLP sold me a defective 160* thermostat as well, but I'm still thinking the problem is air. There is no exhaust smell in the air that is burping out.
Am I alone, or has anyone else had this much trouble bleeding a coolant system?
I've tried pulling a vacuum on the hose from the steam vents, and got a bit of air out that way. I should also mention that I'm using a vent tube setup that connects to ALL 4 of the steam ports on the heads....could this be a problem somehow?
I also tried jacking one side of the car up while it's running....and then the other side...and got a little more air out that way. I ran the car at a fast idle (1500 rpm) for 10 minutes, and got a little more air out that way. I also "burped" the system by pulling the lever on the radiator cap, and watching a few bubbles burp into the recovery tank. It will sometimes sit at 170*/180* for a while at idle...then climb back up to 210* and stay there for a while....then start to drop back down a bit. The fans are constantly on.
I'm relatively certain that I'm dealing with air in the system, but have NEVER had this much trouble bleeding a system. I suppose that it's possible that SLP sold me a defective 160* thermostat as well, but I'm still thinking the problem is air. There is no exhaust smell in the air that is burping out.
Am I alone, or has anyone else had this much trouble bleeding a coolant system?
06-21-2011, 02:46 PM
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I am having almost the same problem with mine. I pulled the t-stat to see if it was a stat problem, but hasn't helped. I shouldn't have any air pockets without a t-stat? I have a intercooler in front of my radiator, but I haven't even got the car on the road, besides down my street. Once the fan comes on, it never shuts off. I can't help much, but would like to know if it was air in yours. I even thought maybe my water pump was bad?
06-21-2011, 02:59 PM
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I am having almost the same problem with mine. I pulled the t-stat to see if it was a stat problem, but hasn't helped. I shouldn't have any air pockets without a t-stat? I have a intercooler in front of my radiator, but I haven't even got the car on the road, besides down my street. Once the fan comes on, it never shuts off. I can't help much, but would like to know if it was air in yours. I even thought maybe my water pump was bad?
