does this A-body engine position look right?
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Joined: Jun 2011
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does this A-body engine position look right? Put LS1 and t-56 in my 1964 Chevelle this weekend, and had a few issues.
Just wondering if anyone can comment on the forward/backward placement-the body is currently off and I'm hoping to avoid firewall clearance issues.
I do have steering linkage-oil pan clearance issues, so i think I may be on the right track!
Any insight would be appreciated!
Just wondering if anyone can comment on the forward/backward placement-the body is currently off and I'm hoping to avoid firewall clearance issues.
I do have steering linkage-oil pan clearance issues, so i think I may be on the right track!
Any insight would be appreciated!
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Central Florida
Placement looks good. Mine is sort of like that. Yep. in a tight turn I scratch the oil pan 
Ha!
Firewall was never an issue for me - A/C box is, but not firewall.
I'm using the truck accessories and the P/S pulley is really close to the steering box, but it is all good.
Ha!Firewall was never an issue for me - A/C box is, but not firewall.
I'm using the truck accessories and the P/S pulley is really close to the steering box, but it is all good.
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F-body pan, unmodified......
Incidentally, (or not), the mount plates I think were originally for a Nova application, and we ended up flipping the "frame perches" to get it where it is now. This is most noticeable in the second pic i think.
So maybe I can add a spacer plate to gain some clearance on the steering components?
Incidentally, (or not), the mount plates I think were originally for a Nova application, and we ended up flipping the "frame perches" to get it where it is now. This is most noticeable in the second pic i think.
So maybe I can add a spacer plate to gain some clearance on the steering components?
There is not right or wrong place place the engine. Most well end up placing it in one location for one or more reason..
This being the 1) type of oil pan, 2) Front access and 3) Steering.
You can space the frame stands up some. But watch out for the through bolt.. cause rasing the frame stand changes the hold location, pushing them inwards. Also Fireway and Trans tunnel clearance might come into play. (Its the little things that get you).
Some want to move the engine as far back as possible for wieght distribution, other move it forward or front access or OEM AC compressor.
Keep in mind that Headers come into play sometime. so mix and matching can be a problem. Keeping with the same manufactor of the plates/mouts and header well cause less problems.
IMO, what every works out for your application and hardware is what is best..
This being the 1) type of oil pan, 2) Front access and 3) Steering.
You can space the frame stands up some. But watch out for the through bolt.. cause rasing the frame stand changes the hold location, pushing them inwards. Also Fireway and Trans tunnel clearance might come into play. (Its the little things that get you).
Some want to move the engine as far back as possible for wieght distribution, other move it forward or front access or OEM AC compressor.
Keep in mind that Headers come into play sometime. so mix and matching can be a problem. Keeping with the same manufactor of the plates/mouts and header well cause less problems.
IMO, what every works out for your application and hardware is what is best..
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Central Florida
Then I "adjusted" my passenger header with a framing hammer.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 436
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From: Vancouver area, West coast Canada
I have a 67 chevelle with a 6.0L. I had to cut about 1" off the front of the f-body pan sump to clear the crossmember. Your engine looks like its a good 3-4 inches further back than mine. I have about 2" from the back of the right cylinder head to the firewall.
I suggest you get the body back on the frame before you set the engine location in stone.
I suggest you get the body back on the frame before you set the engine location in stone.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 72
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From: Hermosillo, Sonora, Mexico
I had linkage problems and decided to make these mounts (the lower ones) and then add .750" spacers cut from 1/2" pipe with longer bolts.
Steering problems gone! the headers I am using (pacesetters for a 4th gen Camaro) fit just right and as a plus I can use the truck AC mounting bracket if I only remove the mounting ear further back of the mount.
If you notice it keeps the engine at the same lenghtwise location as the "S&P style" mounts pictured above.
I am using a truck oil pan that has been notched in the sump.
Steering problems gone! the headers I am using (pacesetters for a 4th gen Camaro) fit just right and as a plus I can use the truck AC mounting bracket if I only remove the mounting ear further back of the mount.
If you notice it keeps the engine at the same lenghtwise location as the "S&P style" mounts pictured above.
I am using a truck oil pan that has been notched in the sump.
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Looks like you have the motor mount frame stands in backwards. But, if everything works for you then no worries. Can you get your starter on the motor that way?
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 213
Likes: 2
[QUOTE=Rat Chevelle;15141976]I had linkage problems and decided to make these mounts (the lower ones) and then add .750" spacers cut from 1/2" pipe with longer bolts.
Steering problems gone! the headers I am using (pacesetters for a 4th gen Camaro) fit just right and as a plus I can use the truck AC mounting bracket if I only remove the mounting ear further back of the mount.
If you notice it keeps the engine at the same lenghtwise location as the "S&P style" mounts pictured above.
I am using a truck oil pan that has been notched in the sump.[/QUOTE
which hangs lower, the bottom of the pacesetters or the flat bottom of oilpan? thanx in advance
Steering problems gone! the headers I am using (pacesetters for a 4th gen Camaro) fit just right and as a plus I can use the truck AC mounting bracket if I only remove the mounting ear further back of the mount.
If you notice it keeps the engine at the same lenghtwise location as the "S&P style" mounts pictured above.
I am using a truck oil pan that has been notched in the sump.[/QUOTE
which hangs lower, the bottom of the pacesetters or the flat bottom of oilpan? thanx in advance
Last edited by downset71; Jul 12, 2011 at 04:59 AM. Reason: change
Thread Starter
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Don't have a starter yet, but there looks to be plenty of room there.
I'm thinking the suggestion from gjestico should be taken to heart.....I may keep my current set up until I can verify I won't have major firewall clearance issues...
There is not right or wrong place place the engine. Most well end up placing it in one location for one or more reason..
This being the 1) type of oil pan, 2) Front access and 3) Steering.
You can space the frame stands up some. But watch out for the through bolt.. cause rasing the frame stand changes the hold location, pushing them inwards. Also Fireway and Trans tunnel clearance might come into play. (Its the little things that get you).
Some want to move the engine as far back as possible for wieght distribution, other move it forward or front access or OEM AC compressor.
Keep in mind that Headers come into play sometime. so mix and matching can be a problem. Keeping with the same manufactor of the plates/mouts and header well cause less problems.
IMO, what every works out for your application and hardware is what is best..
This being the 1) type of oil pan, 2) Front access and 3) Steering.
You can space the frame stands up some. But watch out for the through bolt.. cause rasing the frame stand changes the hold location, pushing them inwards. Also Fireway and Trans tunnel clearance might come into play. (Its the little things that get you).
Some want to move the engine as far back as possible for wieght distribution, other move it forward or front access or OEM AC compressor.
Keep in mind that Headers come into play sometime. so mix and matching can be a problem. Keeping with the same manufactor of the plates/mouts and header well cause less problems.
IMO, what every works out for your application and hardware is what is best..
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Yes, we reversed them after the first attempt, which resulted in major crossmember-oil pan interference.
Don't have a starter yet, but there looks to be plenty of room there.
I'm thinking the suggestion from gjestico should be taken to heart.....I may keep my current set up until I can verify I won't have major firewall clearance issues...
Don't have a starter yet, but there looks to be plenty of room there.
I'm thinking the suggestion from gjestico should be taken to heart.....I may keep my current set up until I can verify I won't have major firewall clearance issues...
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 393
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I just started fitting my engine into my 66 GTO today and I have a similar frame perch as you except mine I put infront of the crossmember. I thought about doing what you did on the back to gain clearance on the steering linkage but... You say you don't have the body on yet? If that is the case I don't think it is going to fit for you. Mine similarly mounted but with the perch in front of the crossmember leaves about 2 3/8" between the back of the passenger side head and the firewall. I'm just guessing here but you would have to be a solid 6" rearward of where I am leaving you about 3 1/2" into your firewall. I would investigate that with some measuring of your body and the body mount locations before you go any further.. Hope this helps.
I did put a temporary 1/4" spacer under the pearch to raise things up to help clear the tie rods for now while I finish fitting the trans headers etc...
I did put a temporary 1/4" spacer under the pearch to raise things up to help clear the tie rods for now while I finish fitting the trans headers etc...
