TEDSgrad

Put the drivers' side header in, threaded the bolts and took some pics.
Then I attempted to torque down the bolts, and had problems with the two back bolts. Had to take the header down and tap those two bolt holes!
You can also see the issue with the collector and the shift control lever. Bruce is working on a fix.
No problem with the trans cross member. I also have a braided ground strap on the trans, too. You can see that I used the engine bay red all the way to the tailstock, then black.

TEDSgrad

I guess that most aftermarket vendors just use f-body compressors with any kits, lines, fittings, etc. If you use a GTO compressor, you will have to make more relief in the k-member than what you see posted on other builds! Not only is the compressor larger, the fitting is at an angle which necessitates the wider relief. I had plenty of room, vertically. The fitting is different, as well. Here, the fitting does not fully seat. Bruce will work on that for me, but more wait time.
Plenty of pan clearance

2Aspire

iTrader: (4)

Its the neutral saftey switch..

http://www.partsgeek.com/fxy5vwp-pon...Switch&wfvar=f

If you dont already you should get frame connectors.. I had the exact same car and it will twist like a pretzel with that set-up..

Many use the 0411 PCM with Vette TAC and Pedal as seen in the link for the Painless harness for the 24X GTO..

http://ls2.com/HSV-GTS-300/90543Manual.pdf

2Aspire

iTrader: (4)

Same issue I had but with a different car..

The images I posted in the link below show the 4L65E linkage shaft next to a 350 shaft.. I didnt take pictures of the correct one but its the same inside length as the 4L65E shaft just shorter on the outside..

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-tail-etc.html

TEDSgrad

Thanks a bunch, Matt. Those were helpful. I haven't dropped the trans pan and changed filter, yet. So I can do both at same time.
Have a part # on that shaft?
I do have SFC, and am adding a TA Performance Diff cover w/stud girdle kit for BW 9 bolt. For as long as I stay NA with this set-up, the 9 bolt should hold. I'm thinking above 450 hp to rear as a limit.

roninsonic

iTrader: (3)

This thing is going to be a beast when it's done.

TEDSgrad

450 hp to the rear is the 9bolt limit, I think; some have gone further. I have never been one to pound on cars from standing start - not my thing. I should have 450 hp to flywheel after tune with these headers.
But yes, this should be fun; 60-70 lbs lighter, better weight distr, response, fuel mileage, and hp.
I'm also on Thirdgen. Here are some links to prior upgrades.

Interior first: http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/interior/593065-89-interior-rebuild.html

Suspension build: http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/su...g-vetruck.html

6 Piston Wilwoods: http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/br...ml#post4732117

kwhizz

I'm thinking that you will need the Trans switch to work with the trans computer so the trans computer knows which gear its in......

2Aspire

iTrader: (4)

I got mine from my local trans guy.. I believe this is the same as you want the Early 4L60E shaft that does not have added length for the addition of the neutral safety switch.. Check with a local trans guy as it would probably be cheaper.. Well at least mine was

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...item3cb70d37a5

It made a big difference adding them to my formula just in reducing body creaks.. Also added the front wonder bar to stiffen up the front..

On the 9 bolt I wouldnt waste a lot of money on it as its going to get costly to maintain it. Part availability is another issue. Best bet would be to drive it til it breaks or if you dont want to worry about it.. Just invest in a 9".

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (6)

I can't wait to see those headers installed. Out of curiosity, what made you choose the 2" over the 1 3/4"? That seems like a lot of header for an ls2.

2Aspire

iTrader: (4)

I ditched mine and have no issues but Im not using the original GTO E40 ECM.. However, even for the E40 I dont think it has anything to do with what gear its in but rather if its in gear as to not allow it to start and as an indicator for the original cluster.

TEDSgrad

Bruce talked me into it. I originally thought to get headers and refab the y-pipe and still use the SLP intermediate and back. Also, originally had intentions of swapping camshaft. After talking with a few people, most said with only 36k on takeout - just leave as is --> for awhile. 2" is slightly higher, but why buy 1 7/8" when to "true" SW system "fits like a glove"(nice flanges and V-clamps). There's room for growth after swap $$ recovery.
Well, "fits like a glove" is a struggle. I cannot get the pass header passed the trans bell housing (starter bulge) and the back ear of the a-arm. Have to drop the trans to get the header in. I hate it when I find these things out after the fact. This is very important info to have for install! Especially after going in from the top w/trans attached.
I'm a little frustrated right now. I am not getting the right info, AND/OR no info from Bruce right now. I'm not ready to throw him under the bus or start bashing, but he has dropped the ball several times. I make enough mistakes myself. I need to step away from the project this weekend and clear my head/emotions. Have to wait for parts from Bruce, anyway. Light rain next few days anyway - will make for fun slippery track for SCCA Natls.

TEDSgrad

Have the front steering brace, too. That made a big difference. Especially now that I'm notching those gussets, I'm not too worried with that brace in place, as well.
Agree on the 9bolt. Not going into motor at this time allows me time for axle $$, as well. Along with waiting for wheel selection, too. Chronology on swap is important. I know 9" is strong, but weight is big priority, too. I'll have time to figure it out and watch for deals/opportunities.
I'm using the E40 & T42. Still researching DBW

TEDSgrad

Trans is off & it's raining. Maybe header pics by tomorrow - rain is going to be a prob the next few days, here. At least it's dry under the car

TEDSgrad

What a headache. With the trans dropped, put up the pass side header. Then couldn't get the trans bell housing past the collectors and up into position. Maybe with a lift this could be done (maybe). Maybe I'm just too frustrated. Took the driver's side header completely off. With only the pass side collector, the trans went up; then, when everything was bolted back up, put the driver's side header back in. That's the order that worked for me, for what it's worth.

TEDSgrad

Some underneath clearance shots

TEDSgrad

Got the C100 re-connected and the cockpit wires through the fender-well hole.

Too much rain, here. Couple of pics from the weekend.

TEDSgrad

Changed the pinion seal & installed TA diff cover w/stud kit. Maybe this will help the 9bolt survive a little longer.
Put the condenser, radiator, and dual fan shroud back in. Looking a little more complete under the hood.
Struggling with exhaust fitment. This is going to take some time - alone on my back. Eager to get this finished so I can complete the last welding project - BMR trak pak.

TEDSgrad

Struggling with fitment of the y-pipe, pass side! Needed to dimple areas around the rear of trans oil pan and the rear bolt head of the trans cross-member. I went to Home Depot and got some 3" ID PVC pipe and cut it in half. This allowed me to hammer on the pipe and have good support around the diameter of the pipe - prevent flat spotting the pipe opposite of where you're hammering. Worked well, & it helps to give you a good visual of how much you are dimpling as the PVC is still round.
The dimple by the sledge head is the trans oil pan clearance, the other side came pre-clearanced (longer section) for the cross-member, but I did some more on the far right to clear that rear bolt head on the cross-member. Hopefully this will allow me to rotate the pipe with clearance (while staying flat on the flanges) and get me into the desired position.

TEDSgrad

Here's a couple pics of cross-member & bolt clearance.
Also, a pic of ground clearance.