downset71

my second in-line walbro in 3 yrs. car only has less than 2000miles. this time, ran fine, shut car at gas station,(was on 1/4 tank) went to start and nothing!. pressure was less than 20lbs. pump was buzzing like normal. got a used spare from garage, swapped, and got home. amazing-
bought the last one from a respectable e-bayer with thousands of positive feedback.banging my head--------

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

There are a lot of Walbro counterfeit pumps out on the market. My Walbro has have been installed since 2002 and has over 12,000 miles on it.

Andrew

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Didn't know this, but frankly not surprised. Even the reputable seller could have unknowingly bought crap product. Fuel pump is really the one thing that you don't want to crap out on you, can put you in a real **** situation!

debreshnev

iTrader: (1)

I have a friend that was going through fuel pumps like crazy till we figured out that it was not the pumps but the wiring to the pump causing the problem. If the fuel pump is far from the battery and is using smaller gauge wire it may not be getting enough voltage and in time can cause the fuel pump to fail.

Here is an example: Fuel pump is near the fuel tank, and the battery is near the engine. Let's say the wire is 15 feet long with all the routing, Now lets say it was wired using aluminum 16 gauge wire and the pump pulls 10 amps. Using the calculator at http://genuinedealz.com/voltage-drop.html
The voltage at the pump would be 9.567 volts.

downset71

well, gonna do 2 things. A-order order a new unit from Summit, as they now carry Walbro, B-maybe install larger gauge wire. good idea,worth a shot! (having a Monte thats 100 ft long to the rear isnt helping the AMP droppage)!

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

The china made, fake Walbro, pumps look exactly like the real thing on the outside. You would have to take one apart and know what to look for to see the difference. If you find a Walbro and it's $25 to $40 cheaper than most others, it's a fake.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Buy one from a vendor, their reputations are at stake so it's likely they won't carry fakes...

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Thats what I would do. I highly doubt any good name vendors on here would carry fake ****.

nodrok

Go belt drive.

TURBO BUICK

iTrader: (1)

Try Racetronix.Com for the REAL THING. They are a vendor here also. Also it is a good idea to get the Hot Wire kit to get more voltage to the pump. Rich

downset71

my GM harness was fab-ed up by John Speartech. he wires the relay to fit under the hood, with the + ouput wire about 20 ft worth. on top of that, i added a few feet due to the lenght of my car and location of pump under back bumper. i can re-wire it so the relay is in the trunk, (because i have a BAT + distribution block in trunk anyway) and only have a 5 ft distance to the pump. this will cut back the amp drop. or, i might be lazy and " relay the relay" by piggybacking the first with a second in the back. the harness relay + output can be used to trigger my second relay in the back, in fact doing the same as the first option i mentioned....(without cutting up the speartech harness). Option 3 is just cut out the thin grey + output wire from harness relay, and re-run with a thicker gauge, prolly easiest option. haha

downset71

BTW, thanx for heads up on RACETRONIX- will use them. gotta support sponsors, and not bad price either

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

This is a very good point and the way that the pump is wired should not be overlooked. I always wire my fuel pump directly from the battery. I run the fuel relay wire from the ECU to the back of the car and have a relay in the back. With the battery mounted in the rear it makes for very short power wires that go to the fuel pump. This insures that I always get over 14 volts at the pump.

Andrew

thesource

iTrader: (60)

The bogus pumps have plastic gears inside them and are not worth a ****!

downset71

well sorry to say, Racetronix lost a sale today due to the fact that its mandatory site policy that you HAVE to register with them before any sale. i believe this is the most senseless thing. in this new world of BIG BROTHER, there are a thousand ways to track who is purchasing from where, and what they are buying. everything is purchased electronically, either credit card, or paypal. Email return information should be optional due to the fact of forced advertising and mailing lists shoved down you throat. but besides all that, i did try to register 5 times, on 2 different computers. kept getting "timeouts" on the browser. it wouldnt accept any registries. so due to the fact that there was no simple phone number, i went elsewhere.
i any not disputing their service or products, just venting on their management.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

Sorry but we are having web store issues today.
Customers may order from a large number of dealers who support this forum.

Thanks!

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Try Lonnie at Lonnie's Performance. I've worked with him before and he has all the Racetronix goodies.

His web site isn't the greatest, but I PM'd him here and he emailed me a paypal receipt for what I wanted, that's how we did my transaction. Smooth as glass and F A S T.

underdog51

iTrader: (5)

Make sure your pump is gravity fed. The pump should not be mounted above the tank. The best situation is to have the feed out of the bottom of the tank and keep the pump below the bottom of the tank. A in tank fuel pump is gravity fed because it is mounted vertically at the bottom. You can also pull out of the top of the tank but mount the pump below the level of the tank. A siphon effect will make the pump work properly. If the pump is mounted above the tank, it will burn out quickly, even a true walboro. I have seen it happen many times to guys that have built my kit cars.

Scott
Brunton Auto
Drive a real sports car!!
www.bruntonauto.com

downset71

it is mounted level with bottom of sumped tank. 1/4 tank, was running fine when i pulled into gas station. took a dump trying to restart. i knew about counterfeit pump rumors for years. but took my chances 2x. third time around should be better

Dillon93dillon

Not to steal your thread, but i have a walbro 255,

My truck fuel gauge was working correctly last time i used it, before i put all of this ls swap into it. so im not sure from it sitting it isnt reading right, or my fuel pump wont pick up.
When the gauge reads 1/4 the pump loses prime. and acts like its empty.

i put 5 gallons in it, and turn the key, tried priming it like 10 times... nothing wouldnt suck anything up. had to remove the fuel line from the fuel rail and try it again. finally got fuel.

is it common for these to be hard to prime? or whats going on here. and fuel pump is below the tank, but its pulling from a sending unit top style tank.
If anyone can help it would be great