5.3 Wagoneer p0120 p1516 Help a Newb out!
01-28-2012, 08:07 PM
#21
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Location: Portland Oregon
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Thanks OldCreek,
I sent my harness back to Novak. They checked out the harness the ECM and my pedal/TAC/TB... They say that everything looks good and works on one of their test rigs. So I am still searching for the cause. Got the harness back from them but haven't gotten a chance to reinstall it.
I also got a little sidetracked because I bought another Jeep that already had the swap completed. Wow these things are awesome once they're up and running! Gives me motivation to keep going until I figure out this mind numbing DBW issue! I will keep you updated to what I find. Aaron
I sent my harness back to Novak. They checked out the harness the ECM and my pedal/TAC/TB... They say that everything looks good and works on one of their test rigs. So I am still searching for the cause. Got the harness back from them but haven't gotten a chance to reinstall it.
I also got a little sidetracked because I bought another Jeep that already had the swap completed. Wow these things are awesome once they're up and running! Gives me motivation to keep going until I figure out this mind numbing DBW issue! I will keep you updated to what I find. Aaron
05-15-2012, 11:38 AM
#22
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Fixed!!!!!!!!!!!!! All pink wires need 12v!!!! After almost a year of wrestling DBW ( or what I thought was DBW) it is now FIXED!
Thanks for all that helped. Want to go through all the threads that I searched over the last several months so that if anyone else has the same problem they don't struggle as long as I did.
It was a stupid simple problem. Tucked into the factory loom of the Jeep's ignition circuit was a drop resistance wire. I had wired my key/run power on to this circuit. It measured 12v's at key on, but then dropped down to 6v once the Jeep was running. From what I gather many older vehicles did this as a way of preventing the old coils from burning out.
Once I found that wire with the words "RESISTOR WIRE DO NOT CUT" barely still legible, I removed it from the circuit and all my DBW problems were cured!
I have to give special thanks to Bryan from BD TurnKey Engines in NV. Bryan had the patience to spend about an hour with me on the phone. It was his first suggestion to measure for 12v at the pink wire on the TAC that led me to the problem. THANK YOU BRYAN!!!!
Hope this helps someone else out there. Researching DBW problems had me believing there was a special voodoo magic to matching pieces and getting DBW to work. And it ended up being ONE WIRE!
Thanks for all that helped. Want to go through all the threads that I searched over the last several months so that if anyone else has the same problem they don't struggle as long as I did.
It was a stupid simple problem. Tucked into the factory loom of the Jeep's ignition circuit was a drop resistance wire. I had wired my key/run power on to this circuit. It measured 12v's at key on, but then dropped down to 6v once the Jeep was running. From what I gather many older vehicles did this as a way of preventing the old coils from burning out.
Once I found that wire with the words "RESISTOR WIRE DO NOT CUT" barely still legible, I removed it from the circuit and all my DBW problems were cured!
I have to give special thanks to Bryan from BD TurnKey Engines in NV. Bryan had the patience to spend about an hour with me on the phone. It was his first suggestion to measure for 12v at the pink wire on the TAC that led me to the problem. THANK YOU BRYAN!!!!
Hope this helps someone else out there. Researching DBW problems had me believing there was a special voodoo magic to matching pieces and getting DBW to work. And it ended up being ONE WIRE!
07-21-2012, 03:51 PM
#23
Hey man, good for you!
I just read this thread, https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...wont-work.html .....
I'm gonna check to see if it works for me! I post here for others....
I just read this thread, https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...wont-work.html .....
I'm gonna check to see if it works for me! I post here for others....
02-12-2014, 12:51 AM
#24
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I was reading thru everything and there is some awesome info. Thank you. But I do have one question..... is it pissible to keep the stock TAC and wire it up so the speedometer works properly with the 5.3 swap?
