snipes

iTrader: (14)

Would love more info on this, dont really want to spend the extra money on a conversion kit or K member when I am pretty creative.

THanks

BLWN1

iTrader: (6)

Not sure why you couldnt weld a solid motor mount or drill holes in the ford K?

RATBOX

iTrader: (26)

Just get the AJE, they're cheap, I don't know why anyone ***** around with anything else.

Chrome_Rust

iTrader: (4)

Exactly. they are cheap. I drive my junk 10k+ miles a year. On all kinds of roads and conditions. Tubular stuff is fine if you drive it to the track, occasional weekends or what not. But what about pot holes, and bumps and bad roads, and stuff like that? You are not going to beat a stock K when it comes to that stuff. (now here is where you tell me that you have an AJE K, drive it 90k a year and have airbags and hop the thing at lowrider shows and it's not bent).

I never want to worry about things like that. I am using a stock K with a modified truck pan and it will be just fine, plus I am saving money to put elsewhere.


Charlie

BLWN1

iTrader: (6)

I already have a K in mine why not mod some mounts if i can? Chrome you made any progress and got pics?

boostnut

iTrader: (7)

The only problem you're likely to run into is header fitment IF you're planning to buy a set of dynatechs or kooks. I believe they're designed around the AJE k member.

street_trash

Here are a few loose pics. Will get some closer ones tomorrow.

street_trash

These headers are for a truck. Not f body. But you will have to do some creative thinking on the drivers side, but passenger side lines out fine. But that is with the aje k member.

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

wheel stands are alot worse on a k mem then any damn pot hole but keep thinking how your thinking

boostnut

iTrader: (7)

street trash, can you get some better pics of the drivers side? were you able to use the stock steering shaft? Are these long tubes or shorties?

Chrome_Rust

iTrader: (4)

Not yet, car is in storage. I am still gathering parts. I ended up buying the GM muscle car pan kit from Jegs (2 hour drive to the store in Columbus, OH).
I also bought the header flange kit and a used set of MAC Longtube Headers (1 3/4" Primary 3" Collector).
I figured If I can locate the engine where I want it, get the headers mocked up I should be fine, since the headers are for this chassis/K combo anyway.

@suicidal racing
If you are pulling the wheels that far, you are making enough power to lessen the impact when the wheels come back down. Unless you are saying you throttle the **** out of it, go wheels up, get all pissy/scared and then let out of it and smash into the ground, then yea I could see how that would be harder then hitting a pothole on the street. Last car I had that would pull wheels, I kept my foot in it... memory serves me that the landing wasn't that bad.....

Charlie

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

Nope..i seen people shift an have them come down..seen many not make enough wheel speed an take all the tires off the ground an ive seen cars ride them out an still bend ****..smooky hall is a good example of that at the 2005 u.s street nationals when he was the first n2o radial car to run 7s..watch him have to beat **** on his front end with a sledge 3 diff times after 3 big wheelies..hurt the front end so bad he couldnt run on sunday..

Sometimes they come down soft an sometimes they dont..point is no matter if they come down soft it is still more force the a quick run over a pot hole.

Chrome_Rust

iTrader: (4)

Agreed

RATBOX

iTrader: (26)

Whatever floats your boat I guess. Like you said, I've never bent a tubular K member due to the numerous road hazards I've encountered with them. You ought to consider putting a cage in it and some 1/2 plate steel in place of the floors though, the Foxbody's unibody is pretty soft, the car might fold in half if you jack it up too quickly.

Chrome_Rust

iTrader: (4)

Lol, I know what you mean. Enough chest thumping, I am sorry if I come on as a Know-it-all. In my circle of friends, I am the one that get all of the "What do I need to do to do this" calls. Guess I manifested that here.

Back to the topic

Bowtiedford

iTrader: (9)

are you talking about the anemic 4 cyl Ford t5, heck even the V8 t5 will probably not hold behind a LSX conversion. I would go with the GM version, its much stronger

zipster

iTrader: (5)

The t5 from the turbo coupe is only designed to handle 240 ft lbs. the strongest t5 from Ford was only rated at 330 ft lbs. Also, the turbo coupe T5 has a 3.97 first gear, plus the drop in ratios from 3rd to 4th drops the rpm alot. I was building a turbo 2.3 Ford setup for my Mustang a couple of years ago. the I raced a Hertz Corvette in the Texas mile. Well, 165mph in the standing mile I knew the 2.3 turbo would not be up to do it. Now I am here. 11 to 1 6.0 LSx and a m6, looking for 170mph.

darren roar

iTrader: (1)

ya, that anemic trans. i was worried bout it holding the 302 thats in it now. it does the job but its a little noisy.

RB440MIKE

hi Gents,
I'm working on a 5.3 4L60E in a '94 Mustang convertable with my brother. The original motor was a 3.8. The motor mounts/ cross member will be really easy with the stock cross member. The problem I am having is the oil pan clearance to the power steering rack. I can't fit the F-body pan or the muscle car pan. Would the 3.8 cross member possibly locate the steering rack higher than a 5.0L cross member? Do the tubular cross members lower the steering? The exhaust manifolds from a MY10 Camaro look like they will fit nicely.

sfen78

Offset rack bushings.