Small radiator? 404ci overheating.
Pulling one of the steam vent plugs until water comes out will get all the air out. I find pulling the upper hose is too messy. Normally it helps to jack up the front end, but with your radiator so high it shouldn't be an issue.
the bypass between heater hose connections MUST flow properly or the thermostat WONT OPEN.
if you look at the coolant flow path, you'll see what I mean, the only hot coolant flowing past the thermostat comes from that heater hose return, so if it is kinked, I bet that is your problem.
I found it almost impossible to get all the air out upon filling the system on my engine, I ended up drilling a couple 1/8" hole in the perimeter of the thermostat, which made it easy to fill the engine/cooling system without air lock
if you look at the coolant flow path, you'll see what I mean, the only hot coolant flowing past the thermostat comes from that heater hose return, so if it is kinked, I bet that is your problem.
I found it almost impossible to get all the air out upon filling the system on my engine, I ended up drilling a couple 1/8" hole in the perimeter of the thermostat, which made it easy to fill the engine/cooling system without air lock
Dayco # 87629 or Kelly-Springfield #S-4354.
I also plan on drilling the t-stat while i have to drain everything again anyways.
the bypass between heater hose connections MUST flow properly or the thermostat WONT OPEN.
if you look at the coolant flow path, you'll see what I mean, the only hot coolant flowing past the thermostat comes from that heater hose return, so if it is kinked, I bet that is your problem.
I found it almost impossible to get all the air out upon filling the system on my engine, I ended up drilling a couple 1/8" hole in the perimeter of the thermostat, which made it easy to fill the engine/cooling system without air lock
if you look at the coolant flow path, you'll see what I mean, the only hot coolant flowing past the thermostat comes from that heater hose return, so if it is kinked, I bet that is your problem.
I found it almost impossible to get all the air out upon filling the system on my engine, I ended up drilling a couple 1/8" hole in the perimeter of the thermostat, which made it easy to fill the engine/cooling system without air lock
I was always curious what ppl did to use the pump with systems that didn't have a flow through. While ordering the hose i decided to get the 160* t stat.
On a side note, S10xGN how do you like the M&H's
On a side note, S10xGN how do you like the M&H's
I'm not even sure of this... I have a Vintage Air Gen III system on my car which has a positive shut-off heater valve. That valve obviously remains closed all summer long and I never have any problems with overheating. Some guys have theirs plugged completely and don't have problems. Personally, I think it's all about bleeding the air. My car's radiator fill point is the high point (just like all the "old" cars) and I've never had air pockets or hot-spots...
Not hot by any means and nothing really to worry about since it never goes any higher. But yesterday it went up and I got thinking about this thread so I opened the heater temp valve. Damned if the temp didn't drop straight down to about 165° and stayed there.
So with the heater now circulating the car stays a few degrees cooler and doesn't exhibit the temp swings I have seen for the last 3 years with the heater turned off.
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Tomorrow im going to give it another try. Today i installed a 160* tstat. Didn't drill any holes, it has a little one with a barbell like thing in it, as did my other which i removed. And i also installed the U bend hose. Its alot neater and cleaner than what i had before.
As i filled it this time i made sure to remove the head vent tube and watch coolant flow from it while filling from the upper hose. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
