Getting all the pieces rounded up for my 98 ls1 / 4l60e conversion in my 81 TA. Would like to maintain the stock cluster of gauges but need to know what to get to work. Can I not just use stock senders for oil and water from the original engine? What about tach and speedo? Also going to use a in tank pump setup from Ricks, so what about fuel sender? Thanks for any help or threads on this.

 

You should be able to adapt your oil pressure and water temp sensors fairly easily. Why dont you run an external fuel pump in line and retain the factory sending unit? The tach and speedo will be a bit more tricky to get working. You may need to pick up a couple translators to get them working. Im sure someone else will chime in more knowledgable than myself.

 

For the tachometer I doubt your factory setup will work without some sort of signal conditioning or translator as stated above.

For the speedometer you can use a cable X box (I have never used on personally but I am sure others on the board have, opinions needed), or you could try running a dual output tailshaft housing (uses a mechanical and electrical output).


Something I was thinking about, but have never tried......

Remove reluctor from the 4L60E and replace with a plastic gear from a TH350 (Same ID). Remove the VSS and replace with the TH350 tailshaft housing and speedo output. Thread a signal generator in line with the mechanical speedometer output. Now you could use the mechanical gear for your speedometer and the signal generator for the PCM to shift the transmission.

Any thoughts?


Jon
PSI

 

I purchased this item when I was swapping a sbc into my 94 and hoping to use the v6 cluster:

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd127.htm

I never got around to using it...still sitting in the box and the sbc is sold. It may work for what you are trying to do.

 

Are you wanting sell and how much?

 

Here is a signal booster for the tach from FastKat's build. Scroll down toward the bottom.
http://www.buyrcars.com/jag.htm

 

Yeah, I would consider selling. Shoot me an offer and we can work it out.

 

Yeah, dont mess with the tailhousing. Instead use mech speedo 700R4 VSS parts with either a B4C dual output or inline electric VSS

Older transmissions use a 4 bolt tail, where LSx 4L60E's use a 6 bolt. The adapter between is more than a cable-x box

IMHO, simplest solution is a cable-x box

 

Oil pressure is easy, just put your sender on the LS1. Either use an adapter to put it behind the intake manifold where the LS1 one is (If your using the older red/blue PCM as it doesn`t see oil pressure anyway and won`t miss the factory sender.) If its a newer green/blue PCM drill and tap the fitting on the side of the oil pan above the filter for your sender.

Temperature, your gauge should have a 3/8" NPT sender......chuck it in a lathe and turn the sender down so you can re-thread it metric 12mm x 1.50, then put it in the passenger side head. If you don`t have a lathe chuck it in your drill press and use a file to turn it down then re-thread it. If you don`t have a drill press put your hand drill in a vice and chuck it in the drill and cut it down.......if you don`t have a hand drill......well then I just don`t know what to say LOL.

For the fuel pump/gauge I would probably cut a late model sender into your tank that way you have a baffled tank too, and can use your stock gauge. Check this link out http://www.cardomain.com/ride/716267...elta-88/page-3 There was also a guy who goes by the name trans am mania who cut his 2nd gen tank for a late model fuel bucket/pump/sender setup.

Volt gauge should be untouched.

Tachometer, hook it to the PCM tach output (red connector pin 10 white wire, if its the old red/blue PCM) and then have the signal changed to a 8 cylinder signal in the PCM instead of a 4 cylinder signal (change the tack output resolution from 6 to 3 in both the high and low resolution fields) You might need to add a resistor as a pull up circuit, but I have not had to yet.

Speedo. The best off the shelf solution I have seen is to use the cable X. Or my usual cheaper solution is to put the guts from an electronic speedo (either a GM one or aftermarket) behind the face of your stock speedo.