Silent Assassin '87 300ZX LQ4 turbo Project(updates)
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Also, if your transmission is stock, then it is a 71C and not a T5. Only the 84-86 turbo's came with the POS T5 tranny. The 71C came in all N/A manual z31's and in manual 240sx's.
In case you didn't know... I'm a z31 guru.
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If you want to beat the stock IRS claims on a z31 rear end, then you need to hit over 707whp by streetfighter (which judging by your goals you should be able to do). However, the axle stubs don't hold over 500whp for long when you take it to the drag strip.
Also, if your transmission is stock, then it is a 71C and not a T5. Only the 84-86 turbo's came with the POS T5 tranny. The 71C came in all N/A manual z31's and in manual 240sx's.
In case you didn't know... I'm a z31 guru.
Also, if your transmission is stock, then it is a 71C and not a T5. Only the 84-86 turbo's came with the POS T5 tranny. The 71C came in all N/A manual z31's and in manual 240sx's.
In case you didn't know... I'm a z31 guru.
You did notice I won't be running the manual trans didn't you Satan?
As much as you do know I just wish you knew someone who would buy this motor and trans and the harness and cpu for like 500 bucks it would help get the little stuff I need.
Satan may I call you Satan or do you prefer a human name? What do you think about replacing the bushings in all the IRS stuff with poly energy suspension type stuff? I also noticed the car responds better with about 50lbs of air in the air shocks in the back I was thinking of adding air bags and some stiffer springs to the IRS to minimize the power squat these cars have so bad.
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You did notice I won't be running the manual trans didn't you Satan?
As much as you do know I just wish you knew someone who would buy this motor and trans and the harness and cpu for like 500 bucks it would help get the little stuff I need.
Satan may I call you Satan or do you prefer a human name? What do you think about replacing the bushings in all the IRS stuff with poly energy suspension type stuff? I also noticed the car responds better with about 50lbs of air in the air shocks in the back I was thinking of adding air bags and some stiffer springs to the IRS to minimize the power squat these cars have so bad.
A lot of guys are switching over to the 240sx complete rear subframes. There is much less negative camber when the car squats, and the aftermarket support for the 240sx suspension is through the roof. There is currently a guy cutting 1.48 60's on the stock 240sx rear subframe.
I personally run the z31 rear with custom Mark Williams axle stubs. I also sleeved the stock axles with 4130 Chromoly and shimmed the LSD for 70lbs of break away.
Poly suspension parts? Yeah, that is about 5000 times better than the 25 year old rubber suspension bushings LOL.
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Slightly off-topic. I'd be a bit concerned about driving around with a fuel cell in the back seat and no barrier. When I was your age, I'd prolly not have given it a thought, but after being around awhile, I just wouldn't do it. Too many ways for that to go all wrong...
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Oh trust me that was just temporary and thanks for the concern. I did like the idea of showing off the shiny new cell but didn't want a firewall that took all my rear view away so I thought and thought about how to section off the cell. The track officials wouldn't let me run it like that anyway. My solution was a semi light weight box that looks like a speaker box. The NHRA requires it to be a metal cover or firewall so I am going to cover the 1/2" MDF board I made the foe speaker box out of with the thinnest aluminum diamond plate sheets I can find. I am either going to paint the sheets black or cover them in black vinyl and make the diamonds show by gluing and rubbing the vinyl down. I will add pics of the unfinished box in a minute.
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Here is a photo of the unfinished foe speaker box that will be covered in 1/8" diamond plate sheeting. The little shoe box looking things cover up the return and vent hoses for the fuel cell.
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20111201_130018.jpg)
#27
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For rear end stuff take a look here. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php
I had them make me 10 sets of custom diff flanges (Subaru trans into a Porsche 914) and they turned out awesome and they don't break!
I had them make me 10 sets of custom diff flanges (Subaru trans into a Porsche 914) and they turned out awesome and they don't break!
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Well I scored an LS6 intake, TB and set of injectors and rails yesterday for $75. There is a catch. The intake was dropped of kicked or something smashed the back of it in. I am going to cut a section out of the truck manifold and two part epoxy it like you patch a sheet rock wall. Here are the pics before I cleaned it and fixed the hole in the back.
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_3642.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_3641.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_3639.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_3646.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_3642.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_3641.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_3639.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_3646.jpg)
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Well I fixed the intake today. I went to the local hardware store. In Katy we have a real mom and pop hardware store and I will go there everyday and on Sunday twice before the big chain stores because of the great service. Anyway I bought a pvc 6" sewer cap and some 15 minute 2 part plastic epoxy. I made a template out of cardboard and got a good fit and glued that in place. My buddy owns a body shop so we covered it all with filler and sanded it smooth. I also took a long pry bar and tapped pretty hard on the patch berfore the bondo and there is no way this patch will break or leak. All in all I got a steal in an LS6 intake loaded for $50 bucks check it out.
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20111207_141858.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20111207_163032.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20111207_141858.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20111207_163032.jpg)
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So I am in clean up mode and decided to glass blast the truck manifolds and paint them with ceramic high heat paint. I am going to heat cycle these a few times between coats so they paint will bake into the metal. I know it wont last forever but they will always look better than they did when I got them. Sorry not before pics.
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20111209_133040.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20111209_133040.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20111209_133107.jpg)
#31
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Its amazing what you can do when you open your mouth and tell people what your looking for. I decided to use a stock 3rd or 4th gen automatic shifter that will work with my 4l80E. I don't need a trick shifter since I am going to let the computer shift the car at the track. My local transmission builder has a tech that is into cameros and had this fourth gen shifter and it looks like it will work great. I am going to build a custom vinyl covered center console cause I don't like the stock one it has no cup holders. lol I am going to try and get a 3rd gen camero PRND321 indicator plate and work it into the console design. I also used my meter and figured out the back up light and neutral safety switch terminals for the factory gm plug.
The 5 speed is still in the car so ignore the POS shifter arm sticking up in front of the shifter. I wanted the shifter moved back so I can easily reach it when wearing my 5 point harness. Oh yeah I only paid $20 bucks for the shifter. I had to wire wheel the base as it was rusty then I painted with some silver I had left over.
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_3663.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_3661.jpg)
The 5 speed is still in the car so ignore the POS shifter arm sticking up in front of the shifter. I wanted the shifter moved back so I can easily reach it when wearing my 5 point harness. Oh yeah I only paid $20 bucks for the shifter. I had to wire wheel the base as it was rusty then I painted with some silver I had left over.
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_3663.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_3661.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_3658.jpg)
Last edited by Wire guy; 12-10-2011 at 11:32 PM.
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Here is a new update if anyone is following this build at all. I modified my valve covers and will be making more if anyone is interested. They will run $200 as it is time consuming but worth it if your willing to relocate your coil packs. I am cleaning those up and painting the brackets and will be mounting them on the firewall behind the intake and running MSD custom length wires. If anyone wants a set of these you can email me and send me your stock ones to be modified or send the cores after you receive the new ones (core charge will apply). I did these with a "krinkle" type coat then painted that orange. I can also do non "krinkle" in whatever color you want for $50 more. Anyway here is the finished product.
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_4386.jpg)
here is how its going to look next to my ls6 intake and cast manifolds facing forward.
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_4391.jpg)
Just about every thing is clean and painted waiting on the motor from the machine shop. I should have it back the week after Christmas and will start putting it together asap.
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_4388.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_4386.jpg)
here is how its going to look next to my ls6 intake and cast manifolds facing forward.
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_4391.jpg)
Just about every thing is clean and painted waiting on the motor from the machine shop. I should have it back the week after Christmas and will start putting it together asap.
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/DSC_4388.jpg)
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#34
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very nice build, as for oil return it does matter where the oil level is, if the drain is in oil it will not drain right an back up the turbo causing it to burn oil, push oil out the seals, but you said its below oil level so thats a good thing ill be watching this build, its neat
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Not a whole lot to update right now. The machine work on the motor is done and I will be picking it up this week so I decided to start cleaning up the engine compartment so I have less cleaning and painting to do while the motor is out. I really like the VHT brand paint and decided to try this color called blue silver metallic and I think its really close to the original. I am so ready to get the LQ4 in there I painted the 3.0 valve covers chevy orange just see how the orange will look in there and I think it will look good when its all said and done. Check it out. The car is two tone silver (on the top) and something close to this blue silver or whatever the factory calls it.
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20120102_173821.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20120102_173821.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20120102_173649.jpg)
#38
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Well I now have proof that this is really an LSX conversion. My show co-host and I decided it was time to jerk the original v-6 and get the motor mounts fabbed up. I used a good friends 6.0 block and heads for the mock up as our motor is still in the machine shop. I couldn't help but set my intake, valve covers and exhaust manifolds on the mocked up block to get an idea what my color scheme is going to look like. I think it looks good. My camera phone photos don't do it justice as I will try and get some better photos later. I will also get some pics of the transmission installed. I am going to go head and fab up the hot side of the turbo and if we get ready to run the car before I can buy the turbo itself Im just going to bring a single 3" out of the turbo flange and run the down pipe so it will be easier to make the down pipe mate the turbo later. Oh yeah I have been working on the harness also and as soon as I get it modified I will post some pics of it too.
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20120114_201337.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20120114_201421.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20120114_202128.jpg)
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![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20120114_201337.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20120114_201421.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20120114_202128.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20120114_201358.jpg)
![](http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/dougnkaty/IMG_20120114_201440.jpg)
Last edited by Wire guy; 01-15-2012 at 12:56 AM.
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