MustangLS

iTrader: (5)

The oil pan is the GM performance muscle car oil pan it sits a little lower than the LS1 oil pan but doesn't sit too low in my opinion. I paid $1000 for the car, but have sold $200 in parts off it so far.

This might be a little different but it looks like it should work just fine. The idler is a stock truck tensioner that usually mounts on the other side of the water pump that I've cut apart, removed the tensioner guts and machined it down to line up with the crank pulley. The alternator is using the stock lower bolt hole in the block with spacer to push it out to align with the crank. The top of the alternator has a turnbuckle that I can adjust the alternator out about 1.25" to tighten the belt. I still need to make the spacers for the turnbuckle and find the right length bolts. Uses a 39" VW belt.

c-ham

i did a similar belt setup on a 5.0 once and had to re do it because it slipped on the water pump just fyi

MustangLS

iTrader: (5)

It is a possibility I'm ready to deal with. I had something like this on another car and as long as the belt had good tension it was fine.

Before putting the wiring in I taped everything off and painted it satin black. I also picked up an LS6 intake since the truck intake I had was broken.

tboysen00

iTrader: (1)

looking good. Cant wait to see it done.

MustangLS

iTrader: (5)

Thanks. Can't wait to start it.

Most of my stuff from Strange came in. 9" hosing ends, brake caliper adapters, 35 spline axles, 5/8 studs...just waiting on the spool.

JAX04

iTrader: (17)

Cars looking great man!


This strange setup, was this a kit that your ordered? Ifso, do you mind saying how much it was?

Thanks man!

MustangLS

iTrader: (5)

It wasn't a kit. The standard kits go up to 33 spline and use c clip eliminators and I wanted 9" housing ends. With shipping and everything it was just under $1000.

MustangLS

iTrader: (5)

LS6 intake is on, the gauges, alternator and Holley wiring is all done, driveshaft loop is in and pulled the rear end out of the car. The plan for the rear is to clean it all up, strip it down and get the axle tubes and 9" ends welded on and re-assemble with the new parts. Not sure if I forgot but under that grime is a PA rear end cover so that's one less thing to buy and it had aftermarket lowers I can sell.

64post

iTrader: (5)

That is an 8.8 and it came in a V6 car? You are lucky if that's true. Everytime I find a V6 car at pick n Pull it's got a 7.5" BY THE WAY, I am doing an LS1 (383) swap to my `94 GT so your post's here are of real interest to me and I may ask a few things that you have stated already so please don't get mad. What radiator set up will you use? Who makes those motor mount plates? What rate springs for the front? Did you just eliminate the ABS altogether for weight savings? Is the steering rack for SN95, Fox or Mustang II? thanks..

MustangLS

iTrader: (5)

It came with the car but wasn't factory in that car. They comes with the 7.5" from the factory, the previous owner put this mildly built 8.8 in the car.

I'm using a LS1 radiator in the car but it's going to be rigged up temporarily as the lower radiator support was hit and pushed in. I'm going to have it cut out and have a tube bent and welded in so I can mount it a little further forward.

The Motor mounts plates are made by UPR. Front springs are 14-150 but keep in mind I plan on using the car at the track alot. This car didn't have ABS on it so I didn't have to worry about deleting it. I would have deleted it if it came with it just to make it easier to work on and for weight savings. The rear has exciter rings on it from ABS but I don't plan on using any of that.

The steering rack is a manual rack for a fox body Mustang. I'm using fox body length A arms which are about an inch shorter than SN-95 arms. That will allow the front tires to tuck inside the fenders instead of stick out a little.

64post

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the reply. Are the headers Kooks, Dynotech? I am going to try to use 351W Fox headers (1.75") reflanged to LSX in an attempt to save a little $. Did you mention something about returnless EFI? How will you do electrical diagnosis with the power supply box in the fender well and will water tossed from the left front tire create problems for you? How will you check fuses etc? By the way, it looks like you're doing a real nice job/conversion.

MustangLS

iTrader: (5)

The headers are Dynatechs. I'm going to be using a return style fuel system and Holley EFI for this build. If I have to check fuses it won't be fun but in 20 years of owning Mustangs and racing cars I've only had to check the fuse box under the hood a couple of times so I'm not too concerned. Honestly the car is 90% track car and I'll drive it to work occasionally when the weather is nice. Otherwise it will stay home. If I ended up driving it in the rain more often I'd just make a shield to keep any water from slinging onto the box that I can easily remove.

If this was a daily driver I would have kept it in the stock location, kept the ac, etc...

Thanks.

64post

iTrader: (5)

Did you eliminate/delet the power brake booster with the kit UPR has listed for Fox apps.? Is that the stock M/Cyl.? Thanks.

SN-95

I did basically te exact swap. Mine is a 95' with a carbureted lq4 right now. Went 7.31 t 96 mph the first time to the track with a borrowed carb. I like these body styles. Your is looking good

64post

iTrader: (5)

Yes, unlike an F body, you can have an actual true dual exhaust , 8.8 is really supported in the aftermarket and is as close to a 12 bolt as you'll get. Oh did I mention the SN95 doesn't come with disco era T-tops to make your chasis flex and make noises?...Just sayin

MustangLS

iTrader: (5)

The trunk is cleaned out finally. Scraped out the sound deadening and cleaned up all the rust. I guessing the reason for the rust was because of the battery that was in the trunk at one time. Looks like it spilled in the back of the spare tire well as there were spatter marks in the back. After I was done I painted to stop any more rust and then mounted the battery box.



Under the hood I got the injectors, fuel rails and most of the lines done. The push lock fittings are a bit of a pain to put together especially anything -6. I pulled the headers hopefully one last time so I can get V bands welded on.



The tank can go back in so I can mount the fuel pump but I'm not sure were to mount it. Very little room between the tank and rear end housing. I can't put it in the back like I did on the Mach 1. Once the pump/filter is in I can run the feed line to the fuel rail, wire the pump and the fuel system will be done.

cjmatt

iTrader: (4)

Lookin good, I like what you did with the shifter

64post

iTrader: (5)

Do you have any idea how much the car will weigh? and how much lighter than a GT? It looks like it could end up @ or under 2900. Next up, an LS3 block?

MustangLS

iTrader: (5)

Car only should be right around 2850-2900. I had a 2000 GT a few years ago that was down around 2850 without me in it and had about the same weight reduction. The 94 has a steel decklid instead of fiberglass on the 2000 GT and I've got to manual brakes/rack on the 94 so it should be pretty close.

Once the car is running I plan on beating on it at the track for a while. Spray it and see how long the stock 5.3 holds up. Meanwhile I'll be gathering parts for a single turbo and probably go to a 6.0L based engine.

The fuel system will be complete as soon as I wire the pump but all the plumbing is done. Rear end still needs to be built, shorten the driveshaft, some miscellenaous wiring and it will be ready for fluids and a test fire.

cjmatt

iTrader: (4)

Did you remove the cable that goes from the factory auto shifter to the steering column? When I installed my hurst quarter stick it messed with the starter circuit, I think that's the culprit