GM retro-fit oil pan ....
#41
Staging Lane
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Odessa, TX
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X2,deffinatley an interference issue with the 1st gen rear steer setup and an f body pan so keep that in mind.
#42
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If your building a LS turbo setup on a first gen Camaro or third gen Nova, modifying the firewall and setting the engine back really helps with front engine clearance. It also allows an unmodified F body pan and unmodified rear steering linkage. It doesnt have to go back as far as you would think.
#44
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I talked to Mark at Street and Performance today about their modified pan for an A-body. I have a truck pan that I wanted to use as a core, but he said that the core must be from an f-body. So, the cost for the modified pan is $265 and then the core charge is $295 for a total of $560! Pretty steep for some welding.
However, Mark mentioned that in early February they should have their new castings available for A-body, F-body, G-body, ???? He mentioned that all pans will be superior to current options on the market. The cost will be around $400! I can't wait as even the Mast pan has some limitations from my reading.
I didn't spend enough time on the phone to get the specifics on the pan, but I can wait a month to see what comes out. Anyone else hear about these pans?
However, Mark mentioned that in early February they should have their new castings available for A-body, F-body, G-body, ???? He mentioned that all pans will be superior to current options on the market. The cost will be around $400! I can't wait as even the Mast pan has some limitations from my reading.
I didn't spend enough time on the phone to get the specifics on the pan, but I can wait a month to see what comes out. Anyone else hear about these pans?
#45
On The Tree
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For that price you might as well just buy the Holley pan from summit for $399? These people are over charging because everyone keeps paying. If no one bought the pan the price would come down Im sure. I know engineering costs and all but $400 for what is basically a stock pan replacement with no baffle or extra oil capacity other then 5 quarts is crazy. Just my 2 cents.
#46
8 Second Club
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I ran a modified truck pan in my 67 camaro, and it is cut to be the same depth as an f-body pan - it holds 4.25L of oil NOT ENOUGH. It also needs to have the crossmember notched to sit at the correct height, I tried shimming the engine up, but it only resulted in driveline angle problems.
I now have an F-body pan(I got it free in exchange for labour)and I am 99% sure it is going to fit with my 1" setback engine mounts - which coincidentally happen to place the bellhousing face in the same spot as a gen1 SBC or BBC.
If I could start over, I'd buy the Moroso and deal with the remote filter, (really not too expensive), or the AutoKraft pan. I want the extra volume
anyone want to buy my F-body pan - (pan, windage tray, pickup) before it goes into my car?
I now have an F-body pan(I got it free in exchange for labour)and I am 99% sure it is going to fit with my 1" setback engine mounts - which coincidentally happen to place the bellhousing face in the same spot as a gen1 SBC or BBC.
If I could start over, I'd buy the Moroso and deal with the remote filter, (really not too expensive), or the AutoKraft pan. I want the extra volume
anyone want to buy my F-body pan - (pan, windage tray, pickup) before it goes into my car?
#50
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I am willing to spend money on a pan if it saves time cutting the tunnel or cutting the crossmember or changing the geometry of the steering linkage.
I just wish there was a pan that was the clear winner for an A-body. The more I read about pans, the more confusing it gets. Some guys get a pan to work but they're raising the engine too high to keep angles on the driveline or they have to perform major surgery on the tunnel. Not a big deal but it adds time and money down the road when you have to fit carpet in the vehicle or have to buy new rear control arms to set the rear pinion angle correctly. A guy also has to think about the front accessories and header fit when determining the right pan and these decisions can be costly.
I already have a '67 chevelle in the garage that is using one of the modified S&P f-body pans and it fits nicely, so I know their pan works, but they did have to reduce oil capacity some and if you don't have the f-body core, it is a high priced item!
I just wish there was a pan that was the clear winner for an A-body. The more I read about pans, the more confusing it gets. Some guys get a pan to work but they're raising the engine too high to keep angles on the driveline or they have to perform major surgery on the tunnel. Not a big deal but it adds time and money down the road when you have to fit carpet in the vehicle or have to buy new rear control arms to set the rear pinion angle correctly. A guy also has to think about the front accessories and header fit when determining the right pan and these decisions can be costly.
I already have a '67 chevelle in the garage that is using one of the modified S&P f-body pans and it fits nicely, so I know their pan works, but they did have to reduce oil capacity some and if you don't have the f-body core, it is a high priced item!
#51
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have to agree with 99vettefrc to much crap. was planning on buying a gm pan either h3 or retro pan both are "cheap" from dealer. now i'm confused. I think biggest factor is mounts, location,and body mounts(condition). I have a perfect floor and dont really want to cut it if i dont have too. want to run a t56 and lq4 if anyone has done that in a 68-72 a body chime in
#53
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I was talking to guy that has a ls1 and th400 in an 85 Monte SS with twin screws on top and he said he used a CTS-V pan with no mods and it worked perfect. I did see it hanging about an inch below the crossmember though. like I said I'm just gonna use my truck pan and if it hangs low, oh well! Can't hang lower than the deep sump on the BBC. never hit that on bumps.
#54
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at the beginning of this forum post i said the hummer pan or truck pan doesnt sit any lower than my deepsump 7 qt. pan on my sbc 68 camaro. i have no problem with it on that car. i just ease it around or put-put to the strip and then give it he!!. my 72 camaro is for LONG trips and such. i just want the peace of mind of more clearance on THAT car. 2" hanging down is not THAT big a deal IF you watch were u are going.
#55
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Big difference between your deep sump Moroso versus the LH8 or truck pan. You bottom out the deep sump and you have a dent, you bottom the cast aluminum pan and you have no oil. Not trying to be a wise guy but there is a difference. If I was determined to use the LH8/truck pan I would weld some sort of piece to the bottom of the subframe that actually hung below the pan a tad bit just as a preventitive. Simple in design and peace of mind!!!!
#56
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I've got the H3 pan on my 71 chevelle, still building, but it is going to come off! It hangs way to far below the crossmember imo. Looking at the Mast pan and believe it would be a good fit, but when will they be available again? Does anyone have any measurements on the modified F-body pan that S&P sells?
#57
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Big difference between your deep sump Moroso versus the LH8 or truck pan. You bottom out the deep sump and you have a dent, you bottom the cast aluminum pan and you have no oil. Not trying to be a wise guy but there is a difference. If I was determined to use the LH8/truck pan I would weld some sort of piece to the bottom of the subframe that actually hung below the pan a tad bit just as a preventitive. Simple in design and peace of mind!!!!
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