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09-11 cts-v alternator wiring

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Old 05-04-2013, 04:09 PM
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Here are the two alternators side by side. On the left is a 09 lsa cts-v 150 amp (25925447) which needs the PWM signal. On the right is a 04 ls6/ls2 cts-v 105 amp (25766345) which takes the fbody connector and signal.

I hooked up the 09 alternator and the PWM signal today and my dash voltage reading went from 13.5V to 14V when a 67% duty cycle 132 hz @ 4.8V signal was connected to 'L'. Looks like a simple PWM generator works. The scope shows the PWM signal when the alternator was maintaining 14V. It was convenient for testing to take the fbody connector signal (upper center) and hook up an adjustable voltage regulator (center right) to get the 5V signal to feed the PWM (lower middle).





Old 05-06-2013, 11:23 PM
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I got bored and bought a $20 Arduino which showed up in the mail today. Pretty cool toy. It was straightforward to have it put out a 5V 128 hz signal with an arbitrary duty cycle. Now I need to decide how to convert the alternator voltage to a 0-5V analog signal and then have the Arduino compensate for the fan and other electrical load by changing the duty cycle in real time based on the voltage.
Old 05-07-2013, 08:23 PM
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Orion4096: Excellent information and proof how the PWM signal works. There are dozens (hundreds?) of threads out there on various forums where people are confused how these alternators work.
Old 05-26-2015, 06:57 PM
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This is great info! Did you ever build the Arduino controller to reproduce BCM alternator control function?
Does anyone else make an off-the-shelf product for this purpose by now (2 years later)?

Thank you,

Doug
Old 05-28-2015, 10:17 PM
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I didn't get past the simple program that controlled the duty cycle of the square wave. At the time, there wasn't a good place to mount the arduino in my track car so I settled with running the 2004 alternator. Most people seem content with running the 09+ alternator with 'L' open circuit and the alternator output at ~13.6V.
Old 05-29-2015, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by orion4096
I didn't get past the simple program that controlled the duty cycle of the square wave. At the time, there wasn't a good place to mount the arduino in my track car so I settled with running the 2004 alternator. Most people seem content with running the 09+ alternator with 'L' open circuit and the alternator output at ~13.6V.
I found that the 13.6V wasn't enough to properly charge my Optima battery; it never had a resting voltage over 12.1V. I replaced the Optima with a DieHard AGM which was only slightly better. I finally switched to an older-style non-PWM alternator too.
Old 12-08-2015, 08:52 AM
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Default Arduino

Originally Posted by orion4096
I got bored and bought a $20 Arduino which showed up in the mail today. Pretty cool toy. It was straightforward to have it put out a 5V 128 hz signal with an arbitrary duty cycle. Now I need to decide how to convert the alternator voltage to a 0-5V analog signal and then have the Arduino compensate for the fan and other electrical load by changing the duty cycle in real time based on the voltage.
Do you happen to still have your code to make this work. I've ordered an Arduino and can probably figure it out after a bit of trial and error, but if you see this your help will be greatly appreciated!
Old 12-10-2015, 11:09 PM
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Default Here is the code

After much trial and error I have successfully used an Arduino to power a DR44G alternator from a 06 Silverado.

Here is my code runs my alternator to sweet 14.5 V from pin 9 in a Arduino UNO v3, You'll also need to load a library into the Arduino as well from http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=117425.0

Code:
#include 
int32_t frequency = 128; //frequency (in Hz)

void setup() {
  // put your setup code here, to run once:
  InitTimersSafe();
  bool success = SetPinFrequencySafe(9, frequency);
  if(success) {
    pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
    digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
  }
}

void loop() 
{
  // put your main code here, to run repeatedly:
  pwmWrite(9, 191);
  delay(30);
}
PS the forum wont let me put < marks so after the word include at the beginning put the library PWM.h in marks


I'll write a whole How-To guide if it gets attention.
Old 12-12-2015, 12:51 PM
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Is there still a way to maintain the dummy light function with the PWM regulator? I would like to it to work on my project, but I also want the PCM to control the voltage. Am I asking too much here?
Old 12-14-2015, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by jslezak83
Is there still a way to maintain the dummy light function with the PWM regulator? I would like to it to work on my project, but I also want the PCM to control the voltage. Am I asking too much here?
From my understanding if you want your PCM to control your alternator you'll need one that originally has the 2 pin plug to control the DR44G alternator. If you do not then there is no way to my knowledge to be able to control a 2 pin alternator without the use of a controller of some kind (like what I just built with the arduino).
Old 12-14-2015, 11:53 AM
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Has anyone actually figured out the OEM control logic? There must be a duty cycle table in the stock tune that tells the alternator to change output based on certain conditions.

This is similar to how PWM fan control works.

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So for the alternator, what determines the duty cycle?

Andrew
Old 12-14-2015, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by EFLo
From my understanding if you want your PCM to control your alternator you'll need one that originally has the 2 pin plug to control the DR44G alternator. If you do not then there is no way to my knowledge to be able to control a 2 pin alternator without the use of a controller of some kind (like what I just built with the arduino).
To clearify, I have an AD-244 alternator from a 04 Chevy Express. It is controlled by the '243 PCM from the same vehicle. It has a 4 pin voltage regulator, and has both the "L" and "F" pins going to the PCM. "L" pin has an orange wire, circuit 225 (GEN IND). "F" pin is gray, circuit 23 (GEN CYCLE SIGNAL). These wires go to pins 15 and 75 respectively at the PCM.

I'm wondering if the GEN IND wire can be spliced, maybe with a diode if needed, and send that to the dummy lamp on the dash.



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