5.3L into chevelle???
#22
Let's see, now here's my take on a 66 chevelle pan swap & other A body swaps.... N yes it's not completed yet.
The lh8 or muscle car pan is the cheapest, well actually the pan that comes with your engine swap is the cheapest but if its a truck pan they both hang too low. Looking at eBay or equivalent sights, the lh8 pan is around $200 new. I'm sure others can get it cheaper but this is an average price of this pan if you want to buy it now. I think it will hang about 2" below a crossmember which is a lot on a lowered A body. I'd rather spend that $200 on another pan unless ur car sits very high or your rolling on 26 DONKS...rims I mean...
Fbody pan, if left stock will be a very tight fit as that's what i have. I paid around $175 for a complete kit but that was a good deal n kinda rare. I just checked eBay and on a bidding auction it was at $350 new, not used. Buy it nows are whatever they are and are around $350-400. This pan is a tight fit, you don't have much room to move the engine forward or backwards. You have about a 1/2" or maybe 3/4" of play from the pan hitting the crossmember going forward to the passenger head hitting the firewall going back. It's that tight of a fit and I've messed with it for hours seeing if I could get more without cutting the pan or crossmember. It ain't gonna happen without mods like cutting the pan or cutting the crossmember. You can make it fit but no room for error. It sits above the crossmember or level with it so no worrys on hitting this pan even slammed. I like this pan but idk if I want to make it work or go another route, I'm thinking of going ctsv route now.
Ctsv pan, looks like it fits pretty nice by what I've read n just seen in the pics posted. I think it will have more room from front to rear of clearance unlike the fbody pan and will be pretty level with the crossmember so no worrys on hitting it on a lowered car. Price is anywhere from $200-300 new. I've never seen a used price on this pan so don't know what its worth this way and that's if you can even find a used ctsv pan which may be rare. I think this may be a better bargain if you find it for $200 as ive seen before. Wish I'd bought it then when I saw it for $200
Holly or auto Kraft seem like everyone likes them but at a higher price. I forgot what they go for but if I recall, not cheap maybe $400??? Someone correct me or I'll edit if I find some prices. Still fits better and you have lots of room compared to the fbody pan from what I've read and seen in pics. $400 isn't bad but I don't want to spend that on a pan unless I have to.
If I'm wrong or off base with what I posted, someone correct me as we are here to help one another out. Some have more money than others so a $400 oil pan may be nothing to some but to others might mean a lot for going a cheaper way. If I get a ctsv pan I will post up pics n info for us if needed.
Damn that was a long post....
The lh8 or muscle car pan is the cheapest, well actually the pan that comes with your engine swap is the cheapest but if its a truck pan they both hang too low. Looking at eBay or equivalent sights, the lh8 pan is around $200 new. I'm sure others can get it cheaper but this is an average price of this pan if you want to buy it now. I think it will hang about 2" below a crossmember which is a lot on a lowered A body. I'd rather spend that $200 on another pan unless ur car sits very high or your rolling on 26 DONKS...rims I mean...
Fbody pan, if left stock will be a very tight fit as that's what i have. I paid around $175 for a complete kit but that was a good deal n kinda rare. I just checked eBay and on a bidding auction it was at $350 new, not used. Buy it nows are whatever they are and are around $350-400. This pan is a tight fit, you don't have much room to move the engine forward or backwards. You have about a 1/2" or maybe 3/4" of play from the pan hitting the crossmember going forward to the passenger head hitting the firewall going back. It's that tight of a fit and I've messed with it for hours seeing if I could get more without cutting the pan or crossmember. It ain't gonna happen without mods like cutting the pan or cutting the crossmember. You can make it fit but no room for error. It sits above the crossmember or level with it so no worrys on hitting this pan even slammed. I like this pan but idk if I want to make it work or go another route, I'm thinking of going ctsv route now.
Ctsv pan, looks like it fits pretty nice by what I've read n just seen in the pics posted. I think it will have more room from front to rear of clearance unlike the fbody pan and will be pretty level with the crossmember so no worrys on hitting it on a lowered car. Price is anywhere from $200-300 new. I've never seen a used price on this pan so don't know what its worth this way and that's if you can even find a used ctsv pan which may be rare. I think this may be a better bargain if you find it for $200 as ive seen before. Wish I'd bought it then when I saw it for $200
Holly or auto Kraft seem like everyone likes them but at a higher price. I forgot what they go for but if I recall, not cheap maybe $400??? Someone correct me or I'll edit if I find some prices. Still fits better and you have lots of room compared to the fbody pan from what I've read and seen in pics. $400 isn't bad but I don't want to spend that on a pan unless I have to.
If I'm wrong or off base with what I posted, someone correct me as we are here to help one another out. Some have more money than others so a $400 oil pan may be nothing to some but to others might mean a lot for going a cheaper way. If I get a ctsv pan I will post up pics n info for us if needed.
Damn that was a long post....
#24
#25
My ls engine guy is one of the largest volume engine movers in the country. He worked with Holley to design the swap pan, and he swears to me that $319.00 is cheaper than his cost! And he is a holley dealer! Cheapest I've seen by far.
#27
My CTS-V LSA pan I found on Ebay, The ad said it was a new take off of an LSA crate engine. I paid $195+ shipping and it came in perfect shape with a light coating of clear oil in it and it came with the dipstck windage and gasket still attached to the pan. I LOVE IT! I put the engine in my car using the truck pan, I ignored all the people saying it hung low, but I though my car sat high enough. It didn't, first test drive around the block it bottommed out over a small dip in the road and cracked. I'm lucky it didn't shatter. I sealed it up long enough to get my CTS-V pan.
#28
#29
I second the autokraft.
I originally planned to use a CTS-V and still have it in the garage to sell but the autokraft has better clearance and baffling.
Unlike most of the other sheet metal pans it has the filter built in and since it is sheet metal should be able to dimple it a little to clear the tie rod arms more easily than you could with a cast pan.
TLDR. I used autokraft and would use it again. However, if you are using an alum block I would check out the Mast Motorsports cast pan since the LS oil pans provide some structural rigidity to the block
I originally planned to use a CTS-V and still have it in the garage to sell but the autokraft has better clearance and baffling.
Unlike most of the other sheet metal pans it has the filter built in and since it is sheet metal should be able to dimple it a little to clear the tie rod arms more easily than you could with a cast pan.
TLDR. I used autokraft and would use it again. However, if you are using an alum block I would check out the Mast Motorsports cast pan since the LS oil pans provide some structural rigidity to the block
#30
LS1_Chevelle... The new BRP kits were originally designed around the CTS-V pan and later found that the LH8 pan also worked with the kit. I know, I sold Phil and BRP his frist CTS-V Pan.
I guss back in 05', I had picked up two take off from a GM Dealer here the SF Bay area. The dealer sold two engine to Roy Brizio for two rod builds.. but the pans didn't work out. Roy picked up two new F-body pan and I was able to pick them both up from the dealer as take offs. I used one on my Chevelle and sold the other to Phil/BRP). So, The F-body pan was not a consideration to be used with the new BRP kits.
BC
I guss back in 05', I had picked up two take off from a GM Dealer here the SF Bay area. The dealer sold two engine to Roy Brizio for two rod builds.. but the pans didn't work out. Roy picked up two new F-body pan and I was able to pick them both up from the dealer as take offs. I used one on my Chevelle and sold the other to Phil/BRP). So, The F-body pan was not a consideration to be used with the new BRP kits.
BC
#32
Im doing the same swap right now, 5.3L in a 69 Chevelle. I havent put the engine in yet but I have the a Corvette acc drive (no A/C), Autokraft pan, Doug's swap headers, and Carshop Inc. 1" setback plates with Energy mounts. I also have a set of non setback plates just incase also. From my research the everything should be pretty straight forward with the parts I have but I know thats not always the case, so we'll see once I have a chance to set the engine in.
#33
i used the vette acces dr in my 69, worked great, Hooker headers, and the Hooker mounts(i think they use diff mounts now, but it set the engine close to the firewall)-i used 350-454 frame mounts
i found some paper work from 07 when i ordered my CTS pan-looks like the orig # was 12598152, but under it is 12631828, so that must have been a # change back then
i found some paper work from 07 when i ordered my CTS pan-looks like the orig # was 12598152, but under it is 12631828, so that must have been a # change back then
#34
In the LSx Oil Pan FAQ..it has CTS-V oil pan: Part#12605814, I think that is the same one I have on my Chevelle, I think they replaced it with a newer number and that part had some extra boss (4) for something to bolt on the side of the pan (oil cooler?).
BC
BC
#35
LS1_Chevelle... The new BRP kits were originally designed around the CTS-V pan and later found that the LH8 pan also worked with the kit. I know, I sold Phil and BRP his frist CTS-V Pan.
I guss back in 05', I had picked up two take off from a GM Dealer here the SF Bay area. The dealer sold two engine to Roy Brizio for two rod builds.. but the pans didn't work out. Roy picked up two new F-body pan and I was able to pick them both up from the dealer as take offs. I used one on my Chevelle and sold the other to Phil/BRP). So, The F-body pan was not a consideration to be used with the new BRP kits.
BC
I guss back in 05', I had picked up two take off from a GM Dealer here the SF Bay area. The dealer sold two engine to Roy Brizio for two rod builds.. but the pans didn't work out. Roy picked up two new F-body pan and I was able to pick them both up from the dealer as take offs. I used one on my Chevelle and sold the other to Phil/BRP). So, The F-body pan was not a consideration to be used with the new BRP kits.
BC
However the original kit was a deal where you bolt it all together, set the engine in place, tack the clam shells down, pull the motor out, drill bolts, then bolt the clam shells down.