LS7 E30 M3 Project
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From: Brewcity
LS7 E30 M3 Project Hey Guys,
As you can tell from my post count I am a new member and new to the LS world. I have been working on cars for 17 years and have a pretty good understanding of the basics but this experience is with VW/AUDI/BMW's although the time has come to move on.
I previously had an S54 on DTA S100, OEM CSL box, etc. for the E30 M3 but the cost of modding and the reliability of the set up compared to the results were troubling and that is essentially why I sold that off and I have a LS7 on the way. I have almost everything sorted out with the LS7 from an oiling, fueling, wiring stand point although there are a few things I am still searching for. I am looking for a front drive system that relocates the alternator down low, maybe where the AC was as I am not going to use that. I have found a bunch of FDS's but none that really put the accessories down low and compact. Do you guys have any suggestions on this?
I am also working on selecting a company to make the harness, right now I am working with Speed Scene and it looks as though they were or maybe a still are a site sponsor. Does anyone have any experience with them first hand? Or do you recommend another shop? I would really like to have a mil-spec connector at the firewall but Speed Scene does not do this. I also do not like the plastic split loom wire mold and would prefer to go with a braided loom. I have also spoken to Current Performance Wiring and they will do braided loom but not a mil-spec.
I will post some pictures of the project shortly and thanks for any pointers!
Sam
As you can tell from my post count I am a new member and new to the LS world. I have been working on cars for 17 years and have a pretty good understanding of the basics but this experience is with VW/AUDI/BMW's although the time has come to move on.
I previously had an S54 on DTA S100, OEM CSL box, etc. for the E30 M3 but the cost of modding and the reliability of the set up compared to the results were troubling and that is essentially why I sold that off and I have a LS7 on the way. I have almost everything sorted out with the LS7 from an oiling, fueling, wiring stand point although there are a few things I am still searching for. I am looking for a front drive system that relocates the alternator down low, maybe where the AC was as I am not going to use that. I have found a bunch of FDS's but none that really put the accessories down low and compact. Do you guys have any suggestions on this?
I am also working on selecting a company to make the harness, right now I am working with Speed Scene and it looks as though they were or maybe a still are a site sponsor. Does anyone have any experience with them first hand? Or do you recommend another shop? I would really like to have a mil-spec connector at the firewall but Speed Scene does not do this. I also do not like the plastic split loom wire mold and would prefer to go with a braided loom. I have also spoken to Current Performance Wiring and they will do braided loom but not a mil-spec.
I will post some pictures of the project shortly and thanks for any pointers!
Sam
Sounds like a fun project!
The Cadillac CTS-V (LSA) accessory system gets the alternator down low on the driver's side, similar to the layout of the 1998-02 F-body and GTO setups. It also pulls the power steering pump in pretty tight above the alternator. The CTS-V LSA accessory kit is available at a good price through GM Performance parts. It's probably as compact as you're going to get as far as OEM FD setups go.
If the firewall connector is scaring vendors away, why not just do it yourself? Afterall, it's only a handfull of wires that need to go into the cabin. I've seen some nice round 20-pin everything-proof connectors out there that would do the job just fine. I am sure the harness vendor would pull out and label the wires that need to go into the cabin.
The Cadillac CTS-V (LSA) accessory system gets the alternator down low on the driver's side, similar to the layout of the 1998-02 F-body and GTO setups. It also pulls the power steering pump in pretty tight above the alternator. The CTS-V LSA accessory kit is available at a good price through GM Performance parts. It's probably as compact as you're going to get as far as OEM FD setups go.
If the firewall connector is scaring vendors away, why not just do it yourself? Afterall, it's only a handfull of wires that need to go into the cabin. I've seen some nice round 20-pin everything-proof connectors out there that would do the job just fine. I am sure the harness vendor would pull out and label the wires that need to go into the cabin.
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From: Brewcity
Thank you for the advice on the CTS-V system, I was looking at that as well although I was hoping for a nice billet solution. 
If I get the accessory kit, can I just get the brackets and reuse the accessories I currently have?
I looked into the terminating of a mil-spec harness but it required special tools etc. which are pricey and it may be less expensive to have someone with the tools do this. I also have done some more research and it looks like I will be giving PSI a call and maybe they can get me a naked harness that I can wrap with Painless PowerBraid.
Sam
If I get the accessory kit, can I just get the brackets and reuse the accessories I currently have?I looked into the terminating of a mil-spec harness but it required special tools etc. which are pricey and it may be less expensive to have someone with the tools do this. I also have done some more research and it looks like I will be giving PSI a call and maybe they can get me a naked harness that I can wrap with Painless PowerBraid.
Sam
I run an LS7 with an ATI balancer (for Fbody accessory spacing), factory dry sump pan and 3 gallon Peterson dry sump tank. The p/s doesn't weigh much and isn't really a huge deal to have up near the driver side head. Alternator is below it. A/C is low on the passenger side.
I'm running a KRC (Nascar) pump for the LS motor that has different size orifices you can insert to adjust pressure. It won't boil over like the stock pump will.
I'm running a KRC (Nascar) pump for the LS motor that has different size orifices you can insert to adjust pressure. It won't boil over like the stock pump will.
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From: Brewcity
I tried contacting ChaseBays several times and they have not returned any of my calls. Their harnesses look real nice but I am not going to spend that amount of money with a company that does not have the decency to call new customers back. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Sam
Sam
Talk to these guys.
They sell a E30 LS1 kit, should have an idea about wiring.
http://e30ls1.wordpress.com/
They sell a E30 LS1 kit, should have an idea about wiring.
http://e30ls1.wordpress.com/
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From: Brewcity
Yea they seem like good guys and really pioneered the whole LS into E30 movement. I think they are very knowledgeable but I think their swap parts are a little clunky, here is a pic:
I am going to try and make, or find something similar to these:
Sam
I am going to try and make, or find something similar to these:
Sam
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From: Brewcity
Wiring into the chassis should be pretty easy as I am not retaining much of the OEM stuff, maybe just the heater box... I am going to run the AiM Pista digital dash that can pull the CAN info from the OBDII port and run it like that.
So the engine harness will be standalone and it looks like I will be working with PSI on that part of it. I am probably going to order the harness "naked" and then put my own mil-spec firewall connector on it and coat the wires with something nicer than the plastic harness loom.
So the engine harness will be standalone and it looks like I will be working with PSI on that part of it. I am probably going to order the harness "naked" and then put my own mil-spec firewall connector on it and coat the wires with something nicer than the plastic harness loom.
If you can make it work.... run a straight shot intake to the throttlebody. Any aggressive bends in it will suck up some power. A 90* bend or multiple on a 400+ci LS engine will lose 10-20rwhp on it vs. a straight shot setup.
Here is how my LS7 intake looks. I run a Ford Taurus fan that pulls 4,000cfm+.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...aurus-fan.html
Here is how my LS7 intake looks. I run a Ford Taurus fan that pulls 4,000cfm+.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...aurus-fan.html
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From: Brewcity
So I am working on putting the fuel system together and I have a FuelSafe fuel cell being built for me. The cell will have a Bosch 044 pump mounted in a built in surge tank and will have -8 feed to the fill plate.
I am planning to run an Aeromotive A1000 regulator and am trying to decide if I should run a conventional system and tuck this in the trunk for a cleaner look on the bay or a return less system. Here are some quick diagrams:
I have a good understanding of the pros and cons between the set ups, but wanted to get some thoughts on this. Also, I am need to spec a fuel level sending unit for the cell. The ECU and engine are out of a 2009 Z06, do those fuel sender use the typical 0-90ohm readings? Thanks!
Sam
I am planning to run an Aeromotive A1000 regulator and am trying to decide if I should run a conventional system and tuck this in the trunk for a cleaner look on the bay or a return less system. Here are some quick diagrams:
I have a good understanding of the pros and cons between the set ups, but wanted to get some thoughts on this. Also, I am need to spec a fuel level sending unit for the cell. The ECU and engine are out of a 2009 Z06, do those fuel sender use the typical 0-90ohm readings? Thanks!
Sam
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From: Brewcity
Well I found this out:
Your car has two fuel senders. One in each Tank. They each read 41 ohms (empty) and 252 ohms (full). The right tank is reading from half full to full on your gauge and the left tank is reading empty to half full. The ECM uses the both tanks readings to determine what the fuel gauge will display.
Well that certainly does not make this easy.
I wonder if the ECU can be modified to accept a different fuel level sender. Maybe I put a regular fuel level sender in the fuel cell and then try to program the ECU to that although I am not sure that is possible.
Your car has two fuel senders. One in each Tank. They each read 41 ohms (empty) and 252 ohms (full). The right tank is reading from half full to full on your gauge and the left tank is reading empty to half full. The ECM uses the both tanks readings to determine what the fuel gauge will display.
Well that certainly does not make this easy.
I wonder if the ECU can be modified to accept a different fuel level sender. Maybe I put a regular fuel level sender in the fuel cell and then try to program the ECU to that although I am not sure that is possible. 