Rebuilding Dad's Panoz; LS1 swap
07-13-2012, 12:59 PM
#21
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Could they have clearanced the crank too tight with the bearing and it just seized after a good romp on he track. I'd like to see what the bearing look like and if any of the rods are snapped.
Any *** hat who resuses old springs on a new build would be suspect to me. Who does that unless you know the mileage on them and inspect them before use to make sure they're holding the correct seat pressure.
With the LSx engine what transmission are you going to use?
Any *** hat who resuses old springs on a new build would be suspect to me. Who does that unless you know the mileage on them and inspect them before use to make sure they're holding the correct seat pressure.
With the LSx engine what transmission are you going to use?
07-13-2012, 01:29 PM
#22
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Shop was/is a well respected road race oriented operation in the southeast. But as with all shops... they tend to suck. Thus, I'm taking the car back over and making it right for my dad.
Going to use a TKO600 with a Quicktime bellhousing.
Going to use a TKO600 with a Quicktime bellhousing.
Last edited by Cobra4B; 07-13-2012 at 01:56 PM.
07-14-2012, 09:25 PM
#30
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Looks like bad thrust bearing and some bad crank walk. The crank was definetly moving back and forth. The front cover looks like the ballancer rubed on it and moved out far enough to brake the timing chain.
07-15-2012, 03:47 AM
#31
302 blocks are normally good till 500ish CRANK mind you with proper bracing like you did so I think something else happened there but then again I'm just looking at pictures. Either way it sucks that it happened. How is this new motor going to mess with the weight balance since I'm sure it will be lighter then a the current set up? Where is this going to put you're father in classing with nasa?
07-15-2012, 08:41 AM
#32
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It's all around power/weight. Make the car lighter = run less power. When we're tuning the car we'll just pull timing at what ever rpm we hit max power.
07-30-2012, 02:10 PM
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Engine torn down. Only found one bent valve. Other than that heads are fine. Can't get the cam out though... comes 1/2 way out and get stuck. I can see a loose cam bearing and it could be bent, who knows... off to the metal yard it'll go.
Trans cover removed... access is nice to have.
Got it out. Need to finish taking the trans off and seeing if the clutch is worth a heck. If the main shaft isn't messed up the trans will be refreshed and for sale. It's a Tremec 3550 and one of the few things on this car that never gave us any trouble.
Almost ready to roll the frame out for some power-washing then on to the welding and fitting everything.
Trans cover removed... access is nice to have.
Got it out. Need to finish taking the trans off and seeing if the clutch is worth a heck. If the main shaft isn't messed up the trans will be refreshed and for sale. It's a Tremec 3550 and one of the few things on this car that never gave us any trouble.
Almost ready to roll the frame out for some power-washing then on to the welding and fitting everything.
Last edited by Cobra4B; 08-02-2012 at 08:50 AM.
08-02-2012, 08:46 AM
#37
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Brand new LS1 is brand new. I'm used to cleaning small woodland creatures out of the valley area on them. Need to do some basic prep for road course duty:
1. LS6 springs
2. LS2 timing chain
3. LS4 high volume oil pump
4. ATI balancer
5. Kevco baffled oil pan
etc. etc.
1. LS6 springs
2. LS2 timing chain
3. LS4 high volume oil pump
4. ATI balancer
5. Kevco baffled oil pan
etc. etc.
08-07-2012, 12:18 AM
#39
Nice build! I just wanted to let you know that Champ pans makes a baffled 10 QT pan for the LS. It is what I used on my Daytona engine swap. It is not listed on their site so you have to call and ask about it.
08-07-2012, 12:31 AM
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Interesting... I was pretty set on the Kevco 7.5 quart LS pan. Has 4-way trap door baffling and has been used by a couple of other guys who have put LS motors in a Panoz chassis. That pan looks nice, but it'd probably be very close if not interfering with my swaybar tube and front chassis crossbar.
