74modified

Ive been busy with work, but put a little more work into the wiring harness. Started pulling out unneeded wires.

Leftovers

Routed them where I wanted, and shortened or lengthened to give me the proper length to mount the ECM behind the passenger fenderwell.


Picked up a S10 ECM holder/bracket that will work well for mounting the ECM.

Finished wire work

Now I just need to put together the fuse box & relays.

74modified

Used this Chevy truck full-size/S10 junction block for my grounds. It will be tied directly to the battery and frame.

I used a product like this on connections. I have seen the difference it can make on boat electrics in salt water. It is expensive ($10.00 - $15.00) but works good.

Looking at oil pressure sender location, I drilled and tapped (1/8 NPT) both the original sender from behind the intake (it was broken already), and the oil cooler by-pass cover. I will only need one, and am thinking about adding a oil cooler to bring back capacity from my cut down truck pan.

sebasc300

This is probably a long shot but would you be willing to make another shifter? Name a price and I'll ship you all parts neccessary. It would be greatly appreciated as this is the only issue holding up my TR6060/LY6 swap into a Lexus SC400.

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a source for any more TR6060s?

74modified

sebasc300
Do you know how far back from the front of the bell-housing you need the shifter? You may be able to get by with a McLeod shifter and their offset handle. Have you looked here https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-camaro-2.html

74modified

btlegacy
I wish I had a supplier! My trans came from Craigslist. It was a warranty pull-out on a new 2010 SS Camaro. A mechanic at the dealership got the broken trans for free and ordered a new mainshaft. I did a little research and found that quite a few broke the mainshaft exactly like mine. Anyway, he changed his mind on his project and it just sat for a year or so until I bought it.

sebasc300

Thanks for the quick reply. I need it to be right were an Fbody shifter would be, your custom shifter setup would line up perfect in my chassis. I wish I had fab skills to make something like that.

My offer is till on the table, let me know.

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for letting me know. I am going to do a bit of searching and hopefully I can stumble on one

74modified

sebasc300 -PM sent
How are you planing to manage the reverse lockout on your swap? I know you could do programing and add to the wiring harness. I am thinking of controlling it locally with a switch on the shifter handle like a roll control or nitrous button. I may even take the stock c3 4speed shifter handle and add a micro switch to the stock reverse lockout lever.

-Q-

iTrader: (10)

You can supply 12v to the reverse lockout wiring via the stock brake light wiring...that way it engages the solenoid when the brakes are applied. So you would have to be pushing in the brake to access reverse...that's how I did it, and it works pretty well. May be different for a 6060, though.

74modified

Nice solution big Q -Thanks
The only time I could see it being a problem is on a road course downshifting fro 6th to 5th -heal toe braking - something my car will never see. I picked up a couple of later model brake switches for clutch and brake pedal, and could work this in when wiring up for cruise control.

-Q-

iTrader: (10)

5th and 6th are overdrive gears...you wouldn' be using those on a road course anyways.

By the way, you can also wire your stock reverse light wiring right into the switch on your new manual trans. Works like a charm.

74modified

Thanks Q
I know that it is a double overdrive. I guess it just depends on how long a straight you have to navigate.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silver_...ssic_Challenge

74modified

Just catching up on the wiring. I used a late 90's full size Chevy fullsize truck fuse box. Its fairly compact, has a cover and is easy to find at the do-it-yourself salvage yard.

I have a terminal crimper I bought for a project a few years ago (~$20.00) that will do the Delphi terminals.
This is my crimp on top and a factory crimp on the bottom.

74modified

My version of a budget in tank pump. I like the in-tank pumps, and have found better service from the factory Delphi pumps. Bought a new Delphi fuel pump module for a 5.3/6.0 Express van with no fuel level sender - $39.95.

Pulled the pump and regulator. I am using a regulator and return on the rail, and the new regulator is a perfect replacement.

Went to the Do-it-yourself junkyard and picked up a car pump module out of a plastic tank with similar depth as my Corvette tank. Car at top and van at bottom. I swapped the new parts into the car module.

Also swapped the wiring and connector, because the contacts were larger and better able to handle current.

I also cut the retainer ring from the tank, and the saved the locking ring. Yes, plastic will melt if you get it hot enough.

Cut a hole in the top of my tank.

Tack welded the pump retaining ring to the tank.

I Hates Rabbits

Any updates? How far along are you and how much do you have in this swap?