It's going to be injected, but not factory injection. I am going with either the MSD Atomic EFI, the FAST EZ EFI, or a similar setup. Mainly, I wanted to keep the old 4 barrel look with the convenience of fuel injection. I am going to go carbed at first so I can get it going, then swap it over to injected after I make sure I get all of the bugs worked out with the engine, trans, power steering, and any other upgrades I am doing while it is down.

 

Love it! One of my favorites. That and the 67 are just some good looking cars.

 

Take a look at the 69 Buick GS350 that appears elsewhere on the site. He can give you a few tips and share his experience in a similar flavor build.

 

I have been working on my car again. I ended up getting all of the bolts I needed for my accessory brackets. I got my accessory drive on, all of my radiator hoses set up, power steering on, and my serpentine belt figured out. I am doing a few other small things, then it is on to ignition and fuel. It isn't far from cranking now. Here's some notable things I have learned so far:

-I used the Ford E-150 pulley on my power steering pump. The pulley was hitting one of the 4 top bolts on the power steering box. I had to chuck the bolt up in a lathe, grind the head flat with the flange of the bolt, and slot it to use a screwdriver to reinstall it.

- Using this pulley required a shorter belt. I ended up getting the belt from a 97 Jeep Cherokee 2.5L 4cyl w/AC. Gates P/N- K060910

- The water pump outlet is a different size from the radiator inlet. I tried using the lower radiator hose from a 5.3 Silverado, but I didn't like how hard it was to get the hose on the radiator. I ended up using a lower hose from an 87 Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0L. It is 1.75" ID on the radiator side and 1.5" ID on the water pump side. It is bent perfect to fit the factory radiator.

- I was still getting contact between the tie rod grease fittings and oil pan after swapping my steering box with the Grand Cherokee unit. I greased the tie rods good, removed the fittings, and installed 1/4-28 set screws in the holes where the fittings were. The tie rod ends are still close, but are no longer hitting the oil pan.

I will be wrapping a few more things up over the next few days. I will get a few more pics of the progress up.

 

Here's a pic of the clearance between the power steering pulley and power steering box. Notice the bolt I shaved the head off of.



Here's the lower radiator hose


And the upper radiator hose


I also used the Jeep Cherokee power steering lines. It looks like they are going to work. I will know for sure when I bolt the inner fender wells back in. I am afraid the pressure side hose may be in the way.

 

Nice build and thanks for the updates. By the way if you motor was setback another inch or two would you still have the same clearance problem with the power steering pulley? Just wondering as I am doing a similiar project.

 

I think you may still run into the pulley clearance issue. My issue was with the back lip of the pulley. I believe if it were back another inch the front lip of the pulley would rub. It may go, but it will be close.

 

I got a lot of parts in and installed over the past few weeks. I revamped my fuel system, installed my carb, ignition, and pretty much wrapped everything up on the engine. All I have left is to rewire my charging setup since I moved the alternator to the driver's side, tie up a few loose ends in the engine compartment, and top it all off with fluids.

When I got the car I knew a set of trunk pans had been installed on top of the original trunk. I busted out laughing when I dropped the original fuel tank. Take a look at this "patch panel"





I put in a Specte Premium tank. I have heard mixed reviews on these tanks, but I figured I would give it a shot. If nothing else I will have a good starting point to sump one. I ran a -6AN PTFE hose from the tank to the regulator, and from the regulator to the carb. I am using the factory hard line as the return. In the future if I do go bigger and need more fuel I can add a -8 for the feed, and use the -6 as the return. I am running a Holley 3310C carb with electric choke. I figure it should be enough to feed a fairly tame 6.0. I guess I will find out for sure soon enough. Here are a few under hood pics.

 

at least that replacement panel was not going to rust away

 

nice , i have a 66 also , going more stock with it , 427 and tremec , please at the very least put a dual resivour master cylinder with a warning light , better to have the ccp front disc conversion , ive had several durm brake cars and would not even think of driving without front discs .

 

The next step after I get it running is to go through the rest of the drivetrain and suspension. I will be going with a CCP power disc conversion when I redo the front suspension.

 

No it would get wood rot instead, lmao.

 

I sprayed for termites before I bolted the new tank up.

 

Over the past few days I completed a lot of the wiring I had left. I decided to pressure test my fuel system before I reinstalled my front cap. While I was at it I topped off all of the fluids. I had a few minor leaks that were easy to fix. I do have an issue with the fuel pressure being too high. I am not positive that the return line doesn't have a restriction. I blew through it and cleaned it prior to connecting my regulator, but I still have high pressure at the carb. I did go ahead and fire it up. It cranked easy, but has a very high idle, I think due to the fuel pressure. Anyway, I am headed out of town for a few days. Next week I plan to get it to the shop, go over it again, fix my fuel pressure issue, then get the front cap back on. I also had some decals made for the air cleaner to reflect this engine and keep with the old school Chevelle theme.

 

Oops, double tap.

 

lookin good , love the air cleaner sticker

 

Thanks. I had seen some for stroker motors. I contacted the guy that makes them and had these made up. He said it was definitely the first 364ci he had done.

 

Have a 66 'Camino with a fresh 406 Gen I. If I can peddle it, I'm going iron LS6. That is a bored 5.3 with LS6 internals, heads and intake. Already have the build on a stand, otherwise I would be searching for a 6.0 as well.

 

Well. the past few days have been a learning experience. I changed my fuel pressure regulator and still had high fuel pressure. Either my return line was restricted, or too small. I moved my regulator to the rear of the car and hooked it up with a short (6-8in) return line and the pressure is where it needs to be. I then tried to start the car and it acted like it had a huge vacuum leak. That's because it did. I used the truck intake gaskets when I should have used the LS1 style individual o-rings. Once I got that issue fixed it fired right up and ran great.

After I got it fired up I let it get up to operating temp and checked all of the pressures on my transmission to get my TV set up. During all of this I noticed my idle oil pressure dropped off drastically. When I revved the engine it would come up but would drop back to near zero. I killed it and decided to tackle that issue this morning. After doing some reading on here I determined I had the wrong o-ring on the oil pickup tube, or that my o-ring was cut. I am glad this car has a lot of room to work with. I pulled the motor mount bolts and lifted the engine enough to clear the mounts. I was able to drop the pan with the engine still in the car. It turns out I had too small of an o-ring on the pickup tube. I got it swapped and everything bolted back up. It fired up and has 40psi oil pressure at idle.

Once that was straightened out I made my first drive in the car with the 6.0. It felt great. I had to go through a test procedure on my trans to verify a few things for Bowtie Overdrives. It is a vast improvement over the old 350 that came out of it. It is also nice to have an overdrive transmission. Now that I know everything is good I am going to get my exhaust run and start driving this thing. I can also tell that this 10 bolt won't be in the car for long. My next step is going to be reworking the suspension and swapping in a 9 inch.