THE BULLS 41 Chevy p/u Rat Rod
09-29-2012, 10:44 AM
#21
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Working Out of town right now but Ill getting after it pretty serious as soon as I get back. Got my ls6 intake and throttle body in the mail last week and gonna get the cam and standalone harness ordered this week. Gonna have alot to do but should be off for at least a good 9 days when I get back so im looking forward to kicking *** on the build. Thanks for the interest!
10-07-2012, 12:55 PM
#23
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So I've been working up in Ohio for a while now and Ive been gathering up parts to start making some more leeway. Tell me what ya guys think.
Oh yeah, I need some help from all the ls1 motorheads. My plans for the exhaust are to find headers that I can turn upside down and run a single pipe straight up through my hood. Never done it before and I wanna know if it is possible to clear the head and still maintain the straightness. Any recommendations as to which ones to buy would be greatly appreciated! I know that the ones that you mount a turbo go straight up right??? Thanks in advance for the thoughts and help. Heres some pics of the new parts too:
LS6 throttle body and intake $550
TSP 233/239 Cam, 112 lsa, 650 dual spring kit, 7.400 push rods: $739.99
P.S. Standalone harness is already on the way as well.
Throttle body
Oh yeah, I need some help from all the ls1 motorheads. My plans for the exhaust are to find headers that I can turn upside down and run a single pipe straight up through my hood. Never done it before and I wanna know if it is possible to clear the head and still maintain the straightness. Any recommendations as to which ones to buy would be greatly appreciated! I know that the ones that you mount a turbo go straight up right??? Thanks in advance for the thoughts and help. Heres some pics of the new parts too:
LS6 throttle body and intake $550
TSP 233/239 Cam, 112 lsa, 650 dual spring kit, 7.400 push rods: $739.99
P.S. Standalone harness is already on the way as well.
Throttle body
10-11-2012, 06:53 AM
#28
Staging Lane
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Thanks guys Ended up going with the Hooker block huggers. Found out that they'll turn upside down and work fine and for $199 why not. Probably get them ceramic coated. Found a place in Mesquite who can have them coated for a reasonable price but I've gotta figure out how I wanna bring the exhaust out of the hood first. Thinking of cutting a hole in the hood and bringing the pipe out with a couple inch reveal. Thinking it'll have a decent look if its all black ceramic. About 48 hrs til I get to fly back to Texas to see the wife, baby and rat! Shes gonna flip out being that I have about four big orders and they're all arriving today but Im dying to get home and start putting in some work on the motor!
Headers
header gaskets
head gaskets
fuel pump
fuel pump mount
timing set
intake gaskets
Oil pan gasket
Standalone harness
I got some work to do!!
Headers
header gaskets
head gaskets
fuel pump
fuel pump mount
timing set
intake gaskets
Oil pan gasket
Standalone harness
I got some work to do!!
10-17-2012, 12:28 AM
#29
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Lets get this ls cracking Mocked up before the tear down
Cylinders before
Cylinders After
Cylinders2 Before
Cylinders2 After
Heads Before
Heads after
Polished up everything to get it match the bare metal look of the truck
Cylinders before
Cylinders After
Cylinders2 Before
Cylinders2 After
Heads Before
Heads after
Polished up everything to get it match the bare metal look of the truck
10-17-2012, 11:05 PM
#31
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Cleaning the Heads Glad you asked. I actually sent them to a small machine shop and wanted to give this guys info. He resurfaced, cleaned, painted and extracted three bolts for $110 and had them ready within 24 hours. He also cheaked to see if they needed lapping and they did. The guys name is Dennis and his shop is located in South Arlington Texas off Cooper
Filcam Machine Shop
1105 Colorado Lane
Arlington, Texas 76015
On another note, Lownfast came over today and we got a ton done!
New valve springs and 233/239 112 cam
Replaced the oil pump and put on new timing set
Followed torque sequence and Topped her off
Mounts worked out great
Fabricated the new trans member with some square tubing and also used part of the plate off the old s10 member
Had to cut out for the tunnel and went with a 10 in radius til I got past trans housing with. Then cut straight down to save as much leg room inside cab as possible
Really liking the way its coming along as well as the progress made today!
Filcam Machine Shop
1105 Colorado Lane
Arlington, Texas 76015
On another note, Lownfast came over today and we got a ton done!
New valve springs and 233/239 112 cam
Replaced the oil pump and put on new timing set
Followed torque sequence and Topped her off
Mounts worked out great
Fabricated the new trans member with some square tubing and also used part of the plate off the old s10 member
Had to cut out for the tunnel and went with a 10 in radius til I got past trans housing with. Then cut straight down to save as much leg room inside cab as possible
Really liking the way its coming along as well as the progress made today!
10-18-2012, 10:19 AM
#33
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Clening pistons... Bought some red scotch bright from O'riellys. Comes in 6"x4" pieces for like a couple bucks.
Turn engine stand til piston face is a little more than 90 degrees so that trash will run out onto an oil catch pan positioned under piston on floor. Turn crank til desired piston is just out of cylinder as you DONT WANT TO SCAR CYLINDER WALL WITH SCOTHBRIGHT!!! Use brake cleaner/parts cleaner and scrub your as$ off. lol. Make sure to use compressed air on cylinder before turning crank to clean next piston as needed to keep from scarring cylinder with deposits youve cleaned off piston. After, oil cylinder walls with clean oil soaked rag and cover entire engine with towel until replacing heads to keep dust etc out of block.
Hope that helps
Turn engine stand til piston face is a little more than 90 degrees so that trash will run out onto an oil catch pan positioned under piston on floor. Turn crank til desired piston is just out of cylinder as you DONT WANT TO SCAR CYLINDER WALL WITH SCOTHBRIGHT!!! Use brake cleaner/parts cleaner and scrub your as$ off. lol. Make sure to use compressed air on cylinder before turning crank to clean next piston as needed to keep from scarring cylinder with deposits youve cleaned off piston. After, oil cylinder walls with clean oil soaked rag and cover entire engine with towel until replacing heads to keep dust etc out of block.
Hope that helps
11-25-2012, 11:46 PM
#34
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First Start!!! Just thought I'd post a quick update. Have been stuck working in Ohio for way too long and decided it was a must to get this thing started even if I was only able to put about 6 hrs in on it before hopping back on a plane. Hearing it run for the first time keeps me motivated!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=VQ1iLGvQs_U
https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=VQ1iLGvQs_U
12-05-2012, 12:24 AM
#36
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So I'm making some more progress! Taking cab down to bare metal and sealing it, tranny is off being rebuilt, fish plates and frame are finished, got the front components done and belt on. Also, I used scotchbrite to clean and polish allthe old chrome, gas tank, booster/master cylinder, fuel cell, and a few other odds and ends are on the way!
Before
After
Before
After
12-11-2012, 11:58 PM
#39
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Got the rear suspension done, sent body to be blasted then clear coated over the whole truck, also fabricated some body mounts using the old ones off the s10 and then started cutting the tunnel and tacking in the floor
Used old blazer body mounts. Separated rubber from steel. Drilled holes larger than bolts thru cab and frame after squaring it up. Welded nuts to frame rail. Set cab on rubber mounts. Then screwed bolts thru nuts to tighten cab down.
Cab mounted and tunnel started
Used old blazer body mounts. Separated rubber from steel. Drilled holes larger than bolts thru cab and frame after squaring it up. Welded nuts to frame rail. Set cab on rubber mounts. Then screwed bolts thru nuts to tighten cab down.
Cab mounted and tunnel started
